xr_velocity

Hi all, Gone in for a retune at C&V today. THe car currently has XForce with 4" dump, 5" cat into twin 2.5", Monza cooler and Siemens injectors. At the time of that tune it ran 308rwkw on 13psi trailing down to 12psi. Stock fuel pump, valve springs and turbo on a BA MkII Manual. I have since fitted a Mal Wood Stage 3 clutch with lightened flywheel, and Rapid UBP ( Under battery pipe) and HSP (Hot Side Piping). So I am hoping it will make a little extra, also asked them to get a little more economy if possible. Thought I would start this thread because as far as I can see, no one has results of just adding simple mods of UBP and HSP for those with a cheaper cooler setup. Will let you know how it goes later on today. Cya.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention....the best part of the day is getting out on the cruise and flogging all those ricies and Holdens.

I have already entered. Will be there all three days..... Back for a tune next week to try squeeze a little more power out of her. PS for those not sure if they want to enter, just do it. Last year was my first year after spectating at a bunch of these events, there is no comparison. I had a great time and couldn't wait for the next year's event! Powercruise are organising another one day event in NSW later in the year because of the high demand from entrants.

You can add me as a definite...I have a big bulge in the rubber pipe where it joins the intercooler....she's about to blow for sure and not in the good way.

I agree that mistakes can be made, these were not mistakes these were incompetencies by a company that just didn't care. There is a distinct difference. There are many insurance companies out there that let you choose your repairer....why don't they create blacklists of panel shops that cause these sort of issues....would make sense to me.

Hi all, I was put in the unfortunate situation a few months ago when the other half had a bloody accident in the car, a bike hit her in the drivers door. Anyway they both luckily walked away from it, the rider a little worse off with a broken wrist. The car had a large dent in the drivers door and front guard, the side skirt had a couple of holes in it and the drivers door sill was dented in two spots (pushed in a little from the bike trying to sliding under the car). So I figure OK pretty minor damage, new guard, new door skin, new side skirt and some repair to the sill. Pretty straight forward for a competent panel shop with the only part requiring any real skill is the drivers sill as it required some metal shaping. So I search around for a good panel shop locally to myself, I had previously used Rigoli Smash Repair for a different car (damn women reversing down one way streets into me) and were very happy with the results....but I didn't go there this time, why I don't know. BUt anyway I found Kass Smash Repair in Marrickville, they seemed very professional, they had what looked like a clean and well run workshop. So I speak to the sales guy and ask that it be returned to a brand new appearance, he says yeah yeah not a problem. I put special emphasis on the door sill and ask if he is capable of making it look new, he says yes that won't be a problem. So I book it in, one week later I come to pick it up....I am no panel beater so don't know what to look at when inspecting a car....the insurance company should really send out the assessor before you pick it up but anyway. I look at the external and it looks good, paint match is pretty much spot on, panels look nice. Open the door and look at the sill, the dodgy pricks left it in base coat and didn't even remove the dent!!! They had simply given it a hit with a hammer to take the main part of the dent out and then put the rubber strip back on to cover it up. Add to this that they also left the door sill in base coat, it felt like sandpaper!!! I said top him that it was the worst job I had ever seen and I don't know how you could even consider handing it back to me like that after you said you could get it back looking new. He said to me, "C'mon mate you and I both know no one will notice that". I said I don't care about anyone else, I will notice and I have paid for you to fix this and you will fix it. He says OK leave it here and we will fix it. So I come to pick it up a few days later, door sill looks OK, not like new and not good but better than before, and what do you do when he says this is the best we could get it? Go back and do it again when they would probably end up doing more damage than good? So I say OK, then I notice that they had broken the bonnet release, to which I say how did this happen? He says wasn't that like that before? I said how do you think I would drive it with that dangling down in front of the accelerator pedal? He says OK we will repair it but we need it for a day, so I take it back the next week, pick it up and it's fixed. I then take the car home and a few days later notice that the tint has been scratched in about 10 different places, so again I take it back....luckily they have a mobile tint guy come in to do the work so the new tint was done very well. Now the fun part starts, I notice what looks like a run in the paint and some rippling in the paint around where the door handle fits in the door, looks like they fitted the handle while the paint was still wet. So I think F this, I am not going back to Kass Smash Repair so I ring insurance and they say yeah go get another quote from another shop. Off I go to Rigoli who look over the car and note the following shonky work that Kass undertook on my car: -Front guard not aligned properly. -Front guard paint under bonet rough. -Incorrect masking tape on front bumper has caused paint ridge on bumper. -Paint stripped from front guard bolts when removed to replace bonnet release, painted over in what looks like blue paint from a spray can, paint completely different colour to car. -Front door hinges were meant to be replaced, clearly not replaced instead painted in the same random blue paint as the guard bolts. -Door sill not repaired. -Door sill paint in one spot different colour. -Rear door has been moved backwards to fit front door in place even though rear door had no damage at all. They moved it make the front door fit which they did not bother to fix properly. -Paint stripped from rear door hinge bolts and bare metal left exposed where they have moved the hinge backwards to fit the front door. -New door skin was joined around the window frame, the weld has been left very messy, was not a paint run was the weld I could see, the weld has started to rust now! -Masking tape around door mirror and a couple of other places has caused paint ridges to form. -Rippled paint around door handle caused by fitting door handle while paint still wet. -Every panel gap is out, the front and rear doors do not close properly and do not line up. Rogoli has suggetsed that they would like to remove all Kass Smash Repair work and start again as they really don't know what else they have stuffed up and I agree with them. I looked through this forum and found very little on recommended smash repairers so I would like to add a good one and a bad one..... NEVER GO TO KASS SMASH REPAIR IN MARRICKVILLE. THEY ARE DEADBEATS AND WILL CAUSE MORE DAMAGE THAN WHAT YOUR CAR COMES IN WITH. RIGOLI SMASH REPAIR IN BEXLEY AND CAMPSIE ARE VERY GOOD. They fixed a previous car of mine to a very high standard.

I made it there, I had the light blue T. I made it to the third round of the drags which I was happy with. But then missed second gear against a black drag car, was never going to win but I was sure as hell going to push it to as close as I could get! I had a ball on the weekend and will for sure be entering next year

Surely there has to be more than just two people entering???

Who's in. If you book before the 7th of Jan you ppay only $120, then goes up to $180 then up to $240 just before the event. Check out the attachment to see details of the event. Let mw know if you are entering. I am entering into the cruise, drags and dyno. Let's get a heap of Fords out there, last year I saw only 1 turbo in the events!!! No, I wasn't the one but this year I have a heap more power so will be there for sure. Attached is the entry form. PC_12_Entry_Form_Web_High_Res.pdf

As usual guys thanks for your help. Yes lowered cars do look better....to a point, I have never liked the ultra low look but SLs and SSls do look very nice. I haven't minded the look of the stock ride height with 19s so will stick with that for now.

I was debating whether to lower or not, I don't want it too low as I have some speed humps/steep roads etc I can only just clear now around here. Suspension is something I am new to on BAs, I have searched through here but can't find answer to this, if lowered do I need a camber/caster or just caster kit for front and rear? I have traditionally used the shim type camber/caster kits on the E series I used to have which was fine. I read here that you can get either camber/caster or just camber for BAs, is that right? If it is right which should I go with?

Hey guys, I am looking at a set of white Starcorp Impuls on a Velocity Xr Turbo, then get white strips down the sides to match in with the white wheels. First question: With stock springs are the 19s going to make the car too high, if so has anyone got pics of how high it is? Second question: If it is in fact higher, do you need to get the speedo recalibrated or change a gear in the speedo drive like in the old E series? Third question: I think it will look pretty good with white rims on a blue car with white stripes...thoughts? Thanks for your help.

Hi all, I'm starting this thread so as people can put in their power mods done to their Ts so newbies like myself can guage what combos work best for them. I'm not interested in suspension, painted brake calipers etc! Just a list of mods done to make power. Please be detailed enough without writing an essay Start with me... Car: BA Mk2 XR6 Turbo Trans: 6 speed manual Power: 310rwkw Boost: 13 trailing down to 12 Induction: F6 CAI, K&N Filter, Monza intercooler, stock piping Turbo: Stock Valve Springs: Stock Exhaust: XForce 4" dump, 5" cat into twin 2.5" mufflers Fuel system: Siemens injectors, stock fuel pump Thanks guys!

I will have an entire front brake set up available for a T very soon. I have all the parts to upgrade the fronts to the premium brakes so will have: calipers, brake lines, rotors and pads. For a fee of course I am in Sydney, the donor car is a 2005 XR6T with 28000kms. PM me if you would like to buy them, we can sort out a price.

Was talking to a guy at Precision Car Audio in Carlton Sydney, they do some high level installs there, full of Range Rovers and Mercs. He mentioned that the reomte wire for BAs can be found under the left hand kick panel.....but can't remember exactly which wire it was. I will be doing my amp install this weekend so will be able to give you more info if I can find it! This wire activates tha amp without the car key in while the radio is on. Let you know...if I find it

You also have the option of going with Stewie's Brake and Clutch in Sydney brake setup....but it is not ADR approved so not really recommended....but then some people don't mind that. They use the standard caliper with an adapter to fit a 330mm x 28mm rotor with braided lines and Ferodo or Bendix pads for $880 pick up. You can see them on ebay. Race Brakes are also making a 355mm setup at the moment using a 2 piston front caliper (prob the same as the PBR kit's caliper). It might fit under a 17" rim....maybe. But again no ADR. It will be ready in a few weeks. Personally I'm hanging out until a PBR kit is available at a good price. As for the territory turbo brakes mentioned earlier, I priced them from Ford (only available there ATM) calipers $800 each and rotors $750 each...better off with 4 pistons for that price!

When bleeding brakes the correct order is to always go from the furthest caliper from the master cylinder to the closest. So of course in the case of a right hand drive vehicle with the master cylinder on the right hand side, you go LR, RR, FL and then FR. This method is applied to all cars with hydraulic brakes.

I mentioned earlier I can get them from my brother for $1550, he works for Burson. So I can get them a little better than BCR. Might check out what price I can get on just the calipers as I'd rather get the 4000s for the front than the PBR rotors that are in the kit. That is if I decide to go that way of course.

There are not really any upgrades using the standard caliper for this car but these =kits have been around for VB to VS Commonwhores and XA to Xfs for years. The calipers can do the job on a larger disk.

What is the rough cost if getting something like this engineered? Does anyone know an engineer for cheap or is anyone an engineer who can give a certificate?

They are not ADR approved. They would need to be engineered, he has had an engineer looked at them who said that the thickness of the bolt needs to be the same thickness as the metal...of course you need to start with a minimum thickness. They are 12mm thick for each bolt and each bracket. There are not many ADR options out there are there? Other than BF 322s or BA Premiums for under $2000 are there? Unfortunately you run the risk if not getting them engineered.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FALCON-BA-BF-330mm-...oQQcmdZViewItem The price to buy it from the shop (not from ebay) is $880, he adds to the ebay price to cover the fees and hassle. Just want to get your opinions on this? I think it is a fairly good deal given that you get DBA 4000 slotted disks with Bendix Ultimates or Ferodo Formula pads and braided lines. There is a development cost in getting the brackets made so obviously it will contribute to the cost over say a BF 322mm front setup. The replacement disks are off the shelf with the centre hole bored out so replacement parts are easy. Has anyone bought one of these already? If so do the standard calipers stand up to the task of some more inspired braking or is it better to go with the Factory Premiums? Since they are going for $1800 from BCR ( I can get them cost for $1550), is it really worth the extra cash to get the bigger caliper for my main road driving and very very occassional run on a track. Please don't mention a 4 pot setup unless they cost under $880 or less! The point of this topic is for a cheaper alternative to a 4, 6 or 8 pot setup. One other question, the bigger rotor will obviously give better heat dissipation, will it also give better initial bite and pedal feel as the ad mentions?

The territory turbo rotors and calipers are still not available from PBR aftermarket. Ford still have the monopoly!

No, it's only the standard caliper.

Found out that race brakes are going to be putting a kit together which includes a 355mm rotor and 2 pot caliper. No details out yet other than the size of the rotor, no idea even which caliper will be used. The idea is that it will fill a hole in the market for people who want a bigger rotor but can't afford 4 pots. I like the idea of it but they are working off an 18 inch rim template so it may not fit 17s. I wouldn't think there be any performance increase over the Premiums with 325mm disks but it will look nice.