xr_velocity

There are other 3 piece wheel makers out there, but Simmons is an Aussie icon. I remember having a set on our VK station wagon as a kid. THat was back when they had plastic centre caps. As has already been said, a muscle car is not finished without a set of Simmons, anything else is only half way. In my opinion, you can not get a better looking wheel than a 12 inch wide gold centred FR19. All that dish just makes you envious. I'd trade my ROH Modenas for a set of Simmons anyday. :(

19 x 8 front and 19 x 9.5 rear. Offset I am not sure though he had them fitted to a BA ute so should be fine.

Don't worry about the 10.5 question anymore...just bought a nice set of ROH Modena's off ebay...mmmm...not quite Simmons but as close as I wil get!

THe Hiros come in 10.5 inch for the rear as well which I am very interested in! Come in +35 and +45 offsets. Is it possible either os these would fit? I will have the car lowered SSL at the rear. ...If only Simmons cost the same as a cheap chinese import :(

I like the fact that the springs aren't too much harder than stock...I live near Canterbury Rd in Sydney...been down there lately? Bloody terrible road!

There is. THe part number contains SL and SSl for rear...same height as King springs. Check out the pics on the site..also there is a thread from C&V with these springs installed.

This is just taken direct from the Lovells site...might not even be for a BA but it would look similar.

480lbs/inch front 240lbs/inch rear ....though that seems worng given that the stock ones are 250....their tech sheet says all springs are rated former than OEM so I must have the wrong stats.

Yep, under $1k with springs. The list price is about $1100 from Lovells, but retailers always price below the RRP. I was looking into Koni and Bilstein. This has in total cost me less than half of a bilstein/koni and king spring package. I'll see if I can find out what the spring rates are...they don't seem to be in their catalogue.

http://www.lovells.com.au/products.php?p=shocks_car Lovells have a new kit out for the BA BF Falcons. Part number FALCKIT-013SL. http://www.lovells.com.au/catalogue/2009/2...-version-02.pdf I have ordered one of these kits from a mate of mine who is a distributor for Lovells. The kit is well under $1000...less for me If you are interested in this kit or any Lovells parts let me know, can get very good prising. I don't doubt the quality of these parts given the 3 year warranty. Though I cannot comment on the performance of the shock absorber compared to a Koni or Bilstein.....though for most streters it would most likely do the job....anything would compared to stock! But that is just my opinion. For thos wanting a cheapwr alternative to the Bilstein/Koni, this seems good value. ELIMINATOR Twin-Tube Performance Gas Charged Struts and Shock Absorbers are developed in Australia for the automotive enthusiast and purist who requires an exceptional responsive sports suspension system. Designed to match Lovells performance lowered coil springs and spring rates, Lovells Eliminator shock absorber controls are tailor made for each specific vehicle application. With new and improved technology derived from years of research and development, Lovells Eliminator shock absorbers and complete suspension kits offer many unique features for daily driven vehicles, not often seen in aftermarket suspension systems: Eliminator Twin-Tube shock absorbers feature * Performance valve codes for the ultimate in handling and response. * Servicable and rebuildable. * Multi stage valving system to allow a progressive dampening effect from slow to fast piston velocity thus automatically adjusting to all road conditions. * Heavy duty twin tube construction. * Bonded heavy duty neoprene rubber eye mounting bushings with bonded inner crush tube. * Robust 2mm thick external and internal walls. * Huge 36mm internal bore with a seamless and polished inner tube for smoother action and less friction. * Bonded sintered iron piston construction with multi stage valving for increased durability and accurate tolerances. * Piston retainer nuts mechanically peened to stop failure at high temperature. * Nylon mechanical top out bump stops. * Shafts are manufactured from tough 22mm or 18mm hardened chrome, precision engineered to withstand the harshest of environments, while reducing friction and wear. * Gas charged with low pressure nitrogen gas to maximize fade resistance under extreme conditions without harshness, while providing more responsive control. * Fuchs brand oil outer * Short body/short travel to suit lowered springs (up 3" lower than Original Equipment), while still maintaining full suspension travel, bump stop clearance and maintaining spring entrapment. * Option of short body strut part numbers with raised bottom spring seat/platform to suit up to 19" diameter genuine wheels and some 20� diameter aftermarket wheels. (Up to 22" diameter wheels in some applications. * Every Lovells Eliminator strut and shock absorber is dyno tested after manufacture Lovells Eliminator struts and shock absorbers are covered by a 3 YEAR/70,000km WARRANTY Value added extras * Struts come complete with neoprene bellows boots/dust shields. * Shock absorbers come complete with neoprene shrouds. * Struts and shock absorbers come complete with matched shortened bump stops if applicable. * Struts and shock absorbers come complete with mounting hardware. * Some struts and shock absorbers come with re movable spring platform spacers for incremental height adjustment.

Billet shifters going on ebay for $299. I just bought one. My last thread was deleted because I added an ebay link...sorry.

Work has now been completed without extra charge. Con, the manager down there at Rockdale Ford looked after me as they should have from day one.

GOOD NEWS!!! There is still decent customer service available! I spoke to the Manager, not the chimp assistant manager today. As soon as I told him what happened, he said no worries, get the car down here, give us two days and we will have it fixed all under the cost of the original labour. ...I know the work has not yet been done...but, I am hopeful of a better result this time! We shall see!

You are very right, Ford Roadside Assist puts you in the hole where they will only tow to a Ford Dealer......I will be cancelling that...if I can! Will never be taking it to a dealer again!

I did give them the instructions when I gave them the bush, hence why they should have used LOCTITE as per the instructions. The Manager is back from holidays today so I will be taking it up with him. Next Ford Complaints, then Office of Fair Trading then A Current Affair...just threaten them with everything and hope they give in.....but I don't like my chances still.

I am fearing that...but don't want to have to fork out more hard earned for someone else to do it. That is my point and I will kick up a stink rather than just rollover and die. I know it may get me nowhere but I will go down fighting.

I recently broke a rear diff mount bolt, obviously the centre one like everyone else. This is the second time it has happened. Anyway the first time it was done under new car warranty, even though the car has 310rwkw. My luck, can't complain about that. Anyway, it breaks months later again after Powercruise. I get it towed to Ford as I have Ford roadside assist, they only tow it to the nearest Ford Service. I never expected to get it done under parts warranty, though I did try but not very hard. Anyway I accpeted that I would have to pay. So I tell them I will not use Ford parts as they will break again, they tell me they will not warrant them, I say fine I don't expect you to. I buy a Mal Woods diff cover with high tensile socket head bolt and SuperPro Urethane bush. So they install it, car has a squeak from rear end, I figure it's the urethane bush, incorrect installation, not enough grease, simple. But I leave it, don't take it back. About 1000km later the dreaded drive line noises come back and I think there ius no way that these parts could be broken. So I get a pair of pliers under the car and tighten the centre diff mount bolt.....it was incredibly loose. So I call them, they say come down. I say the diff bolt was loose, obviously your guys have not put loctite on it. I also mention the squeak that was there from the bush, and that it was probably not greased correctly for it to make that noise. I get a call in the afternoon, "that will be $55". I say what for, bolts don't come loose on their own you know. THye say aftermarket parts not our fault. I have a half hour arguement with them about the fact. THe assuistant manager tells me that they can't get enough tension on the socket head type bolt, that's why it came loose. I say what about the squeak, you tightened the rear suspension bolts when the squeak was clearly coming from the bush. Dickhead manager says they don't know where it was coming from so they just tightened everything. Anyway syou just couldn't win with this toolbox puppet. So I have to pay $55 to get the car and go home. So today I have Superpro (bush supplier) email me the fitting insutructions for said bush, it clearly says high tensile bolt and LOCTITE is recommended. So I ring Ford spare parts to see if their factory bolt comes with the blue thread lock compound on the end of it, it does. So I am awaiting Ford Arncliffe to return my call to sort this out. I want the rear end dropped again and LOCTITE used on the bolt. It is a matter of time before it comes loose again. They will turn around and say it's been 6 months since we did that work, there is no way it is our fault. Where should I go from here as I know they will say to me that they are not going to cover the cost and refund my already paid $55. I have already paid $660 in labour for these chimpanzees to stuff up, I do not want to have to pay that to someone in the future because Ford are #$%^holes. Can anyone offer any advice as to where I should take this? Is there somewhere within Ford I can appeal? Office of Fair Trading?

THere is going to be another Powercruise this year at Eastern Creek. It's a one dayer being called Powerplay....I imagine it would be like the Saturday, heaps busy but worth it.

Check out www.hpheaven.com.au for pics on the event. Also the dyno figures are on that site. Did anyone else go on the dyno? Mine made 283rwkw....not sure on the dyno variances in shootout mode, at C&V it made 314rwkw (not hp). Why the big difference do you think? Either way the car feels quick and is pretty quick compared to what was out there. Blew away heaps of cars PS 130kmh limit on the track.....haha, who actually stuck to that down the front straight. In the cruise saturday afternoon I felt down on power and the BOV wasn't making the usual sound, after the cruise I pulled up and checked the motor. The hose clamp connecting to the throttle body had busted leaking boost all over the place! But it still had enough to keep up with heaps of cars out there. I think it was making the turbo spin up pretty hard though because the cold side of the intercooler was real hot. It's only a Monza but after all other sessions it was still cool, hence why I think the turbo was working overtime with the hose clamp off.

A garage would be nice, what are they worth? Hardest part of the weekend was having to wait so long.....especially on Saturday. Sunday was excellent, except in my first run on off street drags I was against that gold HK.....flogged me by 10 car lengths! Here is a pic of me lining up for the off street drags on Friday. Can't wait to get the DVD of the event.

Mine can.

That boost curve just looks all wrong to me. Instead of being a linear build to mas psi, it starts off very slow then climbs very fast where it spikes and evens out.......If you look at the old graph it starts at 40kph and ends at 165kph, the new ones start at 80 and ends at 160, so I think that this dyno run was started at higher rpm in 3rd gear than say 1200rpm from the old graphs. That would explain the sudden boost increase as it was simply lag time waiting for turbo to spool from say about 2500rpm. Sounds like it makes sense. Drove it again and it does in fact feel like it is making more torque frrom 2000 to 3000...especially from 2500 onwards. Anyways I am happy wit hthe car and with the tune I can notice a very noticeable torque increase down low, certainly worth the money spent on a car near it's bottom end limits. PS. THey fixed my traction control this time, used to shut down with a bit of spin, now it works quite well, a little too well in fact, won't let me spin 'em at all.

It must have been the mole on her noggin that caused all the trouble. Now she has lost it she looks heaps better and is on the up. I think it's good to see some half decent size high beaming titties on the tennis court again.

In response to ravenhard: Tune was $300 thanks to C&V Christmas special, pipes were $245 thanks to Rapid Group Buy and UBP was $140. UBP was done as it is a cheap mod for those with Monza coolers that many people have done. HSP was done as when I was changing the UBP I noticed a bubble in the factory rubber pipe near the entrance to the intercooler, matter of time and it would become a hole. Why replace with stock rubbish when you can spend a bit more and replace the whole lot with something decent. I was after more economy (retune) and low down torque (larger pipes) for as little money spent as I could. What other options did I have for under $700? I am also told by C&V the dyno room was 40 degrees or so, means I prob would have had another 8rwkw or so...... But I really don't care to be honest because the car feels better now. Economy seems better as well, about 2-3 l/100km on the trip computer. Seat of the pants feels like there is more torque from 2000 to 3000 rpm, where I spend most of my driving. C&V put an extra 1psi of boost in as well so it is hard to guage the exact differences with just these two mods. Slight spike when hitting max boost, stock turbo probably. What I can say is, the car is far more tractable now, it does in fact grip a lot better than what it used to. How that has come about while also feeling like there is more torque down low and more top end I don't know. Maybe the dyno graphs will say something? I'm not crazy, trust me Check out the dyno graphs of old and new and tell me what you think. The old is the 2 page PDF, the new is the jpegs. Unfortunately I never got a torque print out from the old graphs. 308Dyno.pdf

OK, just got a call from C&V.......started with 308rwkw last tune, now up to 315 rwkw with new mods in 35 degree heat. Will post dyno graphs once I scan them tomorrow and will comment on how the car drives compared to pre UBP and HSP tune. That's all I know for now