BAman

Use Castrol TQ 95 Automatic Transmission Fluid , it's the only OEM approved fluid for BTR Transmission There's a filler plug on the drivers side, side of the gearbox, remove the plug and don't forget to check the O-ring for any damage. The correct fluid level is reached when the Automatic Transmission Fluid is level with the bottom of the filler hole.

That's the one I'm using, it's great and has a PWR Transmission Oil Cooler ( 280 x 255 x 19mm ) Mine runs in series with the radiator as all the fitting are there. My one is sitting behind the drivers side spot light. The kit is made up by swan transmissions so it's not a back yarder.

so your trying to say that a modern street car can run around with a 2 speed auto

Yeah, it's a little too big Have you tried without any badges, would look better.

not really in full street trim with powerglide, slicks and front runners putting a powerglide in really means it's a dedicated drag car, regardless of interior

Isn't that why people buy falcons

me too..........

Hey dg246 As said above, I've also got the The f6 cai and K & N panel filter. I'm also using Miss Ali's single guage pod and an autometer mechanical cobalt boost gauge which illuminates blue , all are very easy to fit. Happy hunting

You can also buy directly from them http://www.xr6turbodevelopments.com.au/Tur...nd%20Parts.html

295cc(29 lbs/hr )

Is that a mechanical boost gauge ( #6107 ) if so did it fit easily into the boost gauge

Same here , both TC & ABS lights cam on , only restarting cleared the lights off the dash but after a while they came back on. Found that the n/s/f abs sensor was faulty. All this on the factory tune.

Most car owners with KAAZ centres may have chattering noise. This comes from the friction between the clutch plates. This is caused by not doing enough break in and bad angle fit between the clutch plates. So its important to get someone who knows what they're doing. The best to break in and remove the noise is by driving in a “figure 8” pattern for about 30 minutes ( yeah sounds stupid ) and let the plates rub in to form a good fit. If this initial break in is not done the plates will form strange angles. Then the chattering noise will continue and may even cause damage to the L.S.D. The oil used in the L.S.D. is important as well and could also contribute to the noise problem. some info here http://www.kaazusa.com/

That's the one

Come on guys, some of you sound like cry babies. All manufacturers upgrade their vehicles all the time from model to model, you just can't keep up with the changes. Just look at the changes from BA to BF. If your contemplating a new vehicle soon wait for the new falcon and buy a BF when they have a run out sale. Also when ever there's a completely new model they start to upgrade the features to even the basic models.

If you buy a second hand T from a dealer you still get the usual 3 month warranty. Go for it Markus, very hard to buy a well looked after performance car. Good luck

"51KBA" and "murrayallstar" converted their N/A to turbo and I dont think they had a sh*tfight as you say. With carefull planning, its not as complex as people think it is, especially if you use all the XR6T parts.

BA Engine Codes are: H is for 4.0 N/A Y is for 4.0 TURBO

I think you have made a wise choice going with PWR. Does the new pipe hook onto the existing pipes? Have you got a photo of your front end?

I have a turbo kit for sale if your interested http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=36814

I'm trying to cofigure a remote to my car (BA XR6T) with no luck I'm following the sequence as in the book I've tried new remotes as well. what recieves the signal and what is it called and where is it, maybe that's faulty thanks in advancd

Despite it being loud is it a good reliable pump Are you guys getting good results

There have been some cases where the engine and transmission assembly have dropped http://www.recalls.gov.au/view_recall_deta...l_ID_Auto=14986

My drivers side sealbelt was very slow to retract I bought a new one - the best solution