Brewy

Hi, I have a 2003 BA XR6 Turbo Manual with 102,000km that I’ve owned since brand new and last time I drove it for about an hour with no problems and then it sat for about 6 hours and started it up and started to run rough after about 5 seconds and felt like it was on 4 cylinders with no power, so had to drive it home like this. When I got home, I connected my Autel Maxicom Pro Diagnostic Scan Tool, and it gave me 5 x Fault codes that was astonishing. PO352:63 / CMDTCs - Ignition Coil B primary circuit malfunction. PO354:63 / CMDTCs - Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit. PO356:63 / CMDTCs - Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit. P1708:00/ ODDTCs - Clutch switch input circuit malfunction. P1507:63 / CMDTCs – IAC(idle Control) valve duty cycle lower than expected. So, I put in all New Ignition coils, cleared the faults codes, and started it up and still ran rough after 5 seconds after startup, so scanned again and the faulty ignition coils wasn’t on diagnosis scan report, so thought that’s good, fixed that issue and only had the P1708:00/ ODDTCs - Clutch switch input circuit malfunction. So, when I went to start it for the second time, it wouldn’t start and the word ’’Code” was on the Audio Display Screen and when I try and start, the ’’Code” word goes Dim, but lights on dash still bright and works ok, and Audio doesn’t work. So thought maybe the Clutch switch input circuit malfunction was causing it to not start now, but I didn’t really think so, so just also to cover the 1 yr. old supercharge battery as well, I put it on the battery charger that night and took it to get tested at Autobarn the next day and all good and went bought Clutch switch from Ford and when we got home we checked the new and old clutch switch with multimeter for curiosity and the both had the same reading and thought maybe nothing wrong with old switch, but installed new clutch switch anyway and engine still runs rough after 5 seconds? So, don’t know if these replacements parts were really Faulty or ECU/PCM is playing up and throwing out weird codes, as its weird that had no problems and all of a sudden get 5 faulty parts codes? And now that it won’t start and Code word on Audio Display, Autel scan tool can’t connect to Vin Numbers in ECU, it comes up ‘’VIN Decoding Failed’’? And I’ve already pulled/cleaned ECU Plugs to no avail. So, it’s getting worst with more unexpected problems. So has anyone had this Issue before and what was the outcome. Thanks

Well... I put the new ignition coils in, and those fault codes went away, except Clutch Switch Malfunction, But it still ran rough after 5 seconds from startup, so went to get the new Clutch switch from Ford dealership today that was also a fault code, with a malfunction, so for curiosity we measured the new switch with multimeter with the old switch and it was exactly the same reading? So, don’t know if it really does fault after operating a bit or ECU/PCM is playing games? While I was at Ford, I asked the Service Adviser that used to be a ford mechanic and worked on these BA’s back in the day about how it suddenly ran rough after 5 seconds from startup and I told him what the faults codes was and what I’ve replaced and he said its most probably a leaking inlet manifold gasket that he said was notorious back then on having this issue, as bolts might be loose and gasket leaking, so sounds like these inlet manifold bolts should have been checked/torqued at first service, as gasket settles? When I got home, I looked at mine and you can see residue stains around this inlet gasket and I see you can spray brake cleaner around inlet manifold when running to see if rpm goes up with spray getting sucked in leak, if there is one and I see online you can do a smoke test as well into manifold for leak test. And I have another new problem, as when I tested the new coils the first time, it started ok, but then a bit later tried again and it wouldn’t start or activate the starter motor, the lights on dash was all there and didn’t dim when trying to start, but on the Audio Display screen, there is the word- ‘’Code’’ and when I try to start, this screen Code word dims, But the dash lights don’t dim, But I cant put a code number in there, as the radio doesn’t work when pushed the on/off button to turn radio on, as I had the battery disconnected for few days while working on it, so don’t know if having battery disconnected for long period, that it does this, everything else works, head lights, dash light, locks/unlocks car, red panic alarm on keys all work ok, so what’s the go here? Sounds like a security function has activated so car won’t start. Thanks

Sure will. Thanks

Since its got mainly 3 coil faults all of a sudden that seems unusual and there’s a chance that these faulty coils could disrupt the PCM and limit some fuel injectors power to put it in a Limp Mode? I’ve order a set of new coils to eliminate them and hopefully that’s causing the fuel injector power loss issue, as at the start I was hoping it was just the ignition coils until I looked into it too deeply by swapping them around and checked out fuel injectors that was cutting 2and 4 out.

Hi Puff, Thanks for your input. I'll do some of those checks, thanks, as dont know anyone around south east Brisbane to try a PCM. As firstly had engine running and lifted each coil up to see if engine died slightly and 2 and 4 cylinders didnt die, so thought then it was No.2 and 4 Igntion coils, so thought I would double check them by swapping them with 1 and 3 and those 2 and 4 coils worked in 1 and 3, so thought then its not coils, will this procedure eliminate coils? As I also had 2 and 4 coils out seperatly out with spark plug in end and still sparked while engine running, they didnt cut power out of them like it does with fuel injectors. Can the coils also be checked for a resistance check like the fuel injectors? Thanks.

Hi TB, Its wired situation, those 5 fault codes still come up after clearing them, I went into more description on these fault codes with the Autel diagnostic scan tool and down the bottom in the coil fault description it’s also got that the ECU could be at fault as well and after I’ve eliminated coils, spark plugs, fuel injectors and I’ve removed/inserted all injector plugs and did the last wire harness plugs that goes under the ECU/PCM today and cleaned/reinserted and still 2 and 4 are out, and checked out along the wire harness, nothing rubbed through, as it’s got that black plastic conduct all around it, so I’m thinking that since 2 and 4 fire/fuel at the same time in Engine firing order, some electrical component inside the ECU-PCM has failed that operates 2 and 4 fuel injection, as its too much of a coincidence that it’s the same 2 cylinders that work together that’s the problem is?

Hi TB, Thanks for your reply, Ive swapped Igniton coils and Fuel Injectors around and still 2 and 4 still drop power after about 5 seconds after startup and I put a long screwdriver on these 2/4 injectors as a stethoscope and when engine started they tick and after 5 seconds they stop ticking and engine runs rough from them 2 dropping power. And Ive had the battery disconnected for a day and it didnt do anything. Ill do those injector multimeter procedure checks that you mentioned, Thanks. And Ill also check the plug from these injector wires that goes to the ECU and see if any corrosion/bad contact, as someone said to check that as well on other Ford sites. I thought it was the ignition coils that casue the problem at first, as that's the main codes that came up, but wasnt, so then checked injectors and that's when I didnt hear 2/4 not ticking, so thought they was blocked etc, so removed and resistance was with others at 15.3, so powered them up with 9v battering with clips wire to open them up and flushed them all 6 out and all clean, so when putting them back in, I swappped 2/4 with 1/3 and still had problem with 2 and 4, so that elimated coils and injectors and then left the power supply to them that I thought was never possible, as Ive EFI Cars for about 35 yrs and never had a injector power issue before, so new to me. Thanks It through some weird codes that I just got out of my Autel Diagnostic scan tool today- Gave 5 x Fault codes- P1708:00/ ODDTCs - Clutch switch input circuit malfunction.(Why would this come up)? PO352:63 / CMDTCs - Ignition Coil B primary circuit malfunction. PO354:63 / CMDTCs - Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit. PO356:63 / CMDTCs - Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit. P1507:63 / CMDTCs – IAC(idle Control) valve duty cycle lower than expected. (Dont know if this IAC came up because it was running rough and on 4 cylinders)?

Hi, Check your Tailshaft centre bearing rubber, as I had an issue like this with vibration over 80km/h, so I put it up on ramps and the rubber was perished around centre bearing, so replaced it with a new centre bearing and vibration gone, more the outer rubber perishes worst the vibration is and if towing it puts more load on tailshaft and will vibrate more from the centre bearing moving around too much from outer rubber failure.

Hi, I have a 2003 BA XR6 Turbo 5 speed Manual Sedan with 102,000km I’ve owned since brand new, last time I drove it for about an hour with no problems and then it sat for about 6 hours and started it up and ran rough straight away, seem to run on 4 cylinders and had to drive it home like this. It runs well when started up and after about 5 seconds starts running rough, so found out after checking/swapping around Ignition coils, Spark plugs and Fuel Injectors that it seems to be dropping power out of cylinders 2 and 4 on the Injector plug that then stops those injectors from working.. So, has anyone come across this Electrical issue before that’s dropping power to some Injector plugs about 5 seconds after running and is there some checks and how to see if a Short/Ground/Relay etc Fault is somewhere and why would it be just the 2 cylinders affected and only number 2 and 4, these No. 2 and 4 injector wiring must join up somewhere along the line for them to fail at the same time? Thanks.