SirFaffer

I just stumbled across this... 8 months old, cooked the engine, no warranty, never replied.... wonder how much it cost him in the end $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Car is a more or less stock configuration. Just an n/a. I've heard rebuilds are about 6k which I don't have unfortunately. I'm a disability pensioner at uni.. so if I did replace it it'd have to be a third 2nd hand box and I'd probably have to do the changeover myself.

Hi all, When I bought my car the trans was replaced under stat warranty because it was creating a noticeable thud when going to overtake on the highway as it shifts from 6 to 4. The replacement trans was fine until recently when it started doing the same thing. It'll also do it if it shifts to 5 and then 4 in quick succession but less so. All other shifts up and down are butter smooth. If I manually quick shift from 6 to 4 it still does it but it's not as harsh. Trans mounts are fine. Engine mounts are fine. Everything else on the car is in good shape. I've looked high and low and I can't find a single case online where someone has had this issue, let alone twice on two boxes in less than a year. Could it be the torque converter having a delay in unlocking? Could it be the E clutch wearing out (3rd to 4th shifts are fine though)? My diff bushes and centre bearing are quite new and fine. I'll probably take it to a trans shop in a few weeks, but if I can get some idea in the meantime it'd be great. Cheers.

Sort of.. 1. Not sure 2. covered under warranty 3. turns out the transmission is toast. looking like it'll be covered. question is, do they give me a reco box or just slap a crusty 350k old second hand box? 4. they say warranty won't cover this... im not arguing it until after the transmission is done. 5. as above 6. They won't cover a fluid flush, but will cover a ps pump or a rack if a fluid refill doesnt fix it... ill wait to see how it goes. if it still seems sh*t ill argue the point. 7. replacing the front brakes myself. upgrading to dba slotted rotors and hd pads. 8. Being covered under warranty. Getting new upper control arms and new ball joints.

For anyone in the future that has a similar problem, this is what I was told today " They have come back stating the clutches are worn, bushes are worn and possible failed valve body. We are awaiting a quote on a replacement gearbox and quote on overhauling the box." In other words, she's I <3 Bananased.

Mechanic is pretty certain its the gearbox, but doesn't have any idea exactly what. It's going next door to the trans specialist.

and the motorbike I had to sell (hence buying myself a 'nice' car) due to personal tragedy. and finally the pos VW boring as hell econobox diesel that's about as exciting as a fridge without an ice maker.

Hi all, I recently had a moment of weakness and bought a viper purple 50th xr6 at auction sight unseen. I'm looking at it as a long term project, but for the short term it has some mechanical quirks to get sorted. It will also have to serve as my daily for the foreseeable future. I don't do many K's at the moment, though. It's under a class B statutory warranty at the moment, so of course first port of call is to see what I can get covered by that. The catch is that the statutory warranty is handled by an insurance company and I don't know if that means they're less liable for repairs or not, or even if I'm expecting too much, given that I bought it sight unseen. At any rate, will see what happens. Brings me to the next thing.. I'm fairly mechanically inept, so I might be prone to asking questions. Save making a bunch of threads ill just ask here, if I can't find the answers on google. If someone can help, great, if not, ill continue smashing google. It'll also be a way for me to keep track of plans and things I guess. Issues to get sorted 1. reverse sensors aren't detecting anything. - stat should sort this surely 2. all 4 bump stops are cactus - son works in a suspension shop so we can do this 3. jolt/thud when car drops from 6th to 4th when I accelerate above 80km/h - feels like its the diff, but all diff bushes are nolothane and in good condition. Mechanic not near a highway so couldn't replicate it, so thinks I'm an idiot making things up lol. Hoping it's not the transmission and hoping even more it doesn't get filed under wear and tear. Can confirm there is no milkshake. 4. diff oil leak - authorised repairer rekons it'll be classed as too minor to repair and get rejected. how safe is it to leave this and for how long if it's not super leaky? 5. engine oil leak - havent pinpointed it. I think its either the head or rocker cover gaskets, or both. - mechanic didn't mention this so I don't know if it'll get fixed or filed under 'too minor to repair'. Doesn't look particularly minor. I'm sure my son and I can figure this one out worst case. 6. Steering is stiff. The wheel is hard to turn and it doesn't return to centre when you let it go, the car continues turning. It was worse when I first picked it up, but has loosened up since. Still way way harder to turn the wheel than in my sons AU2. Mechanic suggested that its not much harder than his XR6 (no mention of not returning to centre because he "didnt let go of the wheel", fair enough). Suggested that it might be the power steering pump, but to replace oil, then pump, then rack I guess. He rekons there is sign of metal in the ps fluid (sparkles). Said they'd put it down to wear and tear and not cover it. 7. Brake shudder... yeah, the rotors are well worn and the pads are down to 5mm, 5mm, 2mm, 5mm apparently. Said it'd go down as wear and tear and wouldn't be covered (starting to wonder what stat warranties actually do cover). If that's the case I think I've decided on a 322mm upgrade, dba 4000 t2 rotors and bendix heavy duty pads. Rear's are fine, I'll do them later. 8. Upper ball joints are toast, very toast going by what the repairer said. This is the only thing that he's confident they'll cover. That all said, I figured the following statement would at least apply to - 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8. The brakes I can understand.... but I digress, I took a risk and one way or another I've got a few issues to solve. A statutory warranty will cover most defects. The vehicle has a defect if a part: does not do what it is supposed to do has worn out so much that it no longer works.

did you ever solve this? having the same issue but from 6th to 4th on the highway.

I ended up just buying a ready to install kit off ebay.. price was a bit cheaper than piecing everything together myself and I get a bracket and instructions.

what is everyone doing in regard to the coolant lines that go into the exchanger once they bypass it to an oil/air cooler at the front? I could just leave it connected but if the inside of the exchanger degrades im going to be dumping my coolant all over the road lol. https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/PWR-PWO0528-XPX-Trans-Oil-Cooler-280-x-255-x-19mm-3/8-Hose-Barb https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/Raceworks-RWF-411-08-06BK-AN-Female-to-Barb https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/transmission-oil-cooler-adapter-fittings-2pk-ford that's what im planning on using, plus some 3/8" tube of course.

G'day, my FG XR6 has heavy steering, especially at low speed and the steering doesnt really return to centre after turning the wheel, the car will just do big circles more or less. Would it be correct to suggest that I've probably got some really stuffed ball joints? Car is new to me, and is going in under stat warranty, but am trying to diagnose what I can anyway. Cheers.

Cheers, this is my cart... add hose, rad zip ties and gulf western atf, filter and gasket and I think im sorted. https://imgur.com/ZB15x18

G'day, Do you need both of these, or just one? Can only see one pair in your photos. Raceworks ZF transmission adaptor (pack of 2) (RWF-922-ZF-08BK)– Aeroflow, Speedflow, Proflow all do these as well.(You need the ones for the ZF transmission, not the Ford 6R variant – outside diameter of the ZF fitting is 16.4mm) Aeroflow -8 AN to 3/8” barb right angle adaptors (x2) (AF413-08-06BLK) – again lots of equivalents in various brands I'm not using a fan, im just intending to go transmission, hoses, cooler mounted in front of the rad. Cheers

its going in on monday... car was bought at auction, but came with a class B stat warranty that seems to be handled by AWN insurance. went for a drive today and it definitely 'feels' like its coming from the rear end, so possibly side bushes? Looks like there might be a diff oil leak too as there is something all over the bottom of the fuel tank and also on the hand brake cable sheathing. Having steering issues too... wheel is hard to turn and doesn't return to centre without manual input. I'm guessing it's something binding up in the front end, ball joints maybe?