jcooke

Can be heat shield, however I had exact same issue, turned out one of the baffles inside the muffler had come un welded. If I hit the exhaust with my hand (obviously when its cold), I could head a rattle/twang noise. Used to drive me bonkers. I got the muffler fixed on northside at performance exhausts (great guys by the way) but any muffler shop could do it. Good luck.

Bummer Phil, was hoping it was repairable for you, though on the other hand not sure you'd want her back after a hit like that. One quick question though, when a car is insured through the likes of shannons/just cars and all mods are advised, when written off, do they pay you what the cost of the car + the mods, or just the agreed value?

Props for making it look factory and can see where your coming. If I was to head down that road (already got premium so na), I would just have an indash screen that's always there, not one that fold's down. maybe 10" screen, something along those lines.

http://premier.ticketek.com.au/shows/show....47-e29b397a1f73 Presales password : VSIDE08 Pumpkins announced they are doin a side tour and will visit Convention Centre in Brisbane, pre-sales tickets go on sale Midday AEDST (11am here), BUT, I jsut tried that password and it allows you to buy general (floor) and seating now. Beat the rush / high server load. Cheers

cheers mate, looks factory indeed, I like. just wondering how much you got the LC6i for and wherE?

nobody? jeees tough crowd.

hey mate, dang that looks hot, love a low ride'in ute.

Hey mate, Sounds like a nice little setup. Got any piccies of the roof mount? Only 3 posts since June 07? The ghost who reads....

Hey guys (and girls ofcourse), When everybody talks about hooking up DVD players / MediaPC's to the ICC via RGB, is there actually an RGB connector on the screen or is a converter required? Has it something to do with that free plug on the buttom right hand side of the ICC? If so how do you switch inputs? Thanks P.s. looking at something along these lines, it comes standard with rgb out http://minipc.aopen.com/Global/spec.htm

well, long story short, stuck hand brake + sledge hammer (not hammer, not mallet, but sledgey) = released hand brake. We managed to get the shoes free however the disc still wouldnt come off. It did however mean that we could put it back together and drive the car to Paul at Elite for its scheduled service. They confirmed that it was missing one of the main clips (the big dog leg one) and alowed the shoes to sit on an angle. This is not a nice fix by any rate, but when you gotta get it free. I tell ya what though, I was in the shed wheeling out the oxy when it come free.

hey guys, yeah I had same problem. Short of silastic / hot glue, I couldnt get it to sit properly and ended up going a pole position auto gauge holder. sits a lot nicer.

Update: Inspected the sub, found that the glue around the spider (the base of the cone that holds the speaker to the surround, that's what the guy calls it anyway) was completely unglued so the sub was extending like 3 inch's out everytime time a bass signal was sent. The guy I went to reglued it and now it works like a treat. I'm still not happy with the quality of sound through the car but the bass side of things sounds a million times better. Great fella to deal with, would recommend to anyone who wants to get their subs or speakers fixed. He also repairs holes/rips in the actual cone. See http://www.qsr.net.au/index.php "Queensland Speaker Repair"

cheers for the reply. I did get it "professionally" installed, but I use that term loosely as I had no end of dramas. The amp continually cut out (due to them selling me a 4ohm stable amp but wiring the sub to 2ohm) and making the internal volume of the box to be 62litres where the sub reqired 35l. I have since fixed both of these myself (rewired sub to 8ohm, though the amp doesn't deliver the recommended 300watt that the sub wants) and put an internal wall in the box to make it the right size. As the sub is running through a line level converter (not sure what model they used) on the front speakers, I cant really play with the bass too much as it creates distortion upfront. Is there a better way of getting the signal (I read that the voltages the pre-out puts out is very low voltage?). I'm open to suggestion.

Hey boys and girls, I've got the premium audio system, but with a JL 12" W3D4 Sub, Alpine MRV-F345 Amp and alpine 6" splits with tweeters in the front. The amp is running the sub at 8ohms as it's not 2ohm stable (sub is dual 4ohm, so 2ohm or 8ohm), and running the front splits. The rear standard speakers are still powerred from premium head deck. The problem is that I think the sound is pretty average. I just have a couple questions on how it is setup. - It looks as though the amp is getting its signal from the front speakers, shouldn't it be getting them from the rears? - The sub is currently facing the rear of the car. Would I get better sound/bass if it were facing the front - Sound qiuality - the amp has a line level input, am I better off getting a line driver (this LC6 keep reading about) or should I bite the bullet and put in a standalone head deck. Or, is the alpine vhub really worth the dosh? - Would it sound that much better if I had a separate amp to run the subs at 2ohm, and thus freeing up the 2 channels to amp the rears (after replacing them with a 6.5" or 5x7). Thanks

so when I pull that rubber grommet off and look in the whole, I see a little gap in between what look like to half shoes. I assume these are the hbs? Do I need to split them further apart with a large screw driver and get mr mallet out? Thanks again for the replies.

cheers mate, have done that too, im thinking the only way to get this $#@%$ off is to bash it off like you say. Its the most stuck hbs I have ever seen.

Sooooo, disc is still stuck on. The hand brake shoes are stuck solid, solid to the point that attempting to leaver off the disk is actually pulling the brake shoe lining out. One other thing I did notice was there was quite a few raised edges on the front edges of the disc, suggesting the mob who did the hand brake shoes (hbs) had a lot of dramas getting it off, solving it with metal hammer. Is this going to be a case of oxy'ing the disc in half or maybe cutting the studs? Spoke to the boys where I was going to get a service, agreed that there aren't many options. Can I spray CRC or WD40 sorta stuff or is this a bad idea? Either way I am going to have to replace the disc after looking at what the last mob did. Any help would be much appreciated. Now where's the oxy bottles......

is there a way to manually release the hand brake shoes? the brake disc is completely release apart from the bottom....

partial update, it is the hand brake shoes stuck on. have the rear right wheel off, hand brake cable is loose, but the hand brake shoes are stuck hand up against the rotor on the inside. is there any secret to getting this off? or brute force required with a worse case of replacing the shoes again??

will go take a squiz now. cant really get to mechanic though if the wheels are locked? I assume giving it a boot to free it up will be a bad idea?

Hey guys, I have had the car sitting for about two weeks while I did a guage install (very slow one at that). All done, went to go put some fuel in, put it in drive, and no moving for me. It feels as though the hard brake is stuck on as the car sags in the ass while trying to move. If I increase rpm will move with an unfriendly squeeeel. Naturally I moved about 2 inchs and decided best not to proceed. Now I did have the crossover off to splice into the blow off vavle line for the boost guage. I have checked all the hoses I played with but they all seem fine. I checked the brake fluid resovoir and it looks quite low. If theres not enough fluid does it lock the brakes on? I would have though it the opposite. Any help would be much appreciated, I was going to fuel up tonight as I need to drop the car to Elite Auto tomorrow arvo for a service. Am I missing something? A hose? check the hand brake cable??? I did have new hand brake shoes installed about 1.5 months ago and have done very little driving since but none the less the hand brake wasn't stuck on then. thanks Josh P.S. Yes the hand brake is off.

yup was a ba/bf xr6, non turbo. Natually the news reported it has high powerred car...

Hey mate, I didnt end up using the adapater plate, I just bought a T piece from the local Autobarn for like $10. The adapter as mentionned above does look very handy if you are going to be monitoring both oil temp and oil pressure. Which cobalt gauges did you install? I have just finished the install of the ozegague gauges and it all went very smooth. If you post the wiring diagram for the cobalts, I'm more than happy to take a look and confirm that it needs the same wiring as mine. If so I'll write a howto now that its fresh in my memory. It really is a simple job to do. I'm a rookie myself when it comes to wiring but it is all pretty straight forward after I did some searching. Cheers Josh

yeah I like the e61i too, but only if it was a touch screen....

thumbs up here, they look good. Also, there are 19" inch ones available. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-FALCON-FPV-COB...1QQcmdZViewItem