Nick_is_not_sus

Yep. The tuner made good numbers. He said with the 1.15ar turbine it's basically a g40.. made 545rwkw on 24-25psi. Said it had more left in barrel but it's pushing sh*t up hill with a stock block and the temporary NA zf started to smell like grinding steal 😆

It's not that bad I'm hitting full boost around 3k in 1st I probably should've gone for the 1.05 I think I found why. I made a bracket to pin the internal wastegate shut (so I could swap out the external when it came time for a warrent of fitness) it would seem the bracket had moved and it was opening ever so slightly even though I couldn't move the actuator by hand cause of placement. I've replaced the actuator and fitted a bolt into the preload adjuster using the actuators mounting bracket and locked the preload adjuter and locked again the bracket, seems like it should work and maybe sort the issue. Probably need to go check the tune checked.

Yeah, gotcha...he's away at the moment so I couldn't ask him. I opened up the tune didn't touch anything noticed there was a edit "vss speed" something and it says "not configured and before edit it was set on "TCM via CAN" I was curious to k ow if that's the cruise control issue No issues on how it performs but since I can't hear my wastegate makes me feel like somethings not right. Maybe I am paranoid? but temporary NA isn't liking it at all Today I took it for a drive if I ease into it say 2nd to about 3k and floor it the wastegate doesn't open but if I give it half throttle in 1st and change to second and floor it the wastegate opens about 4k-ish and stays open in 3rd... maybe it's the spool time with a 1.15A/R ? I don't know

Hi, I'll go through what's been done to the car first... 800hp+ 120x400x450mm intercooler and plumbing, 1000cc injectors, 50mm turbosmart progate/screamer with 10psi spring. 3.5" exhaust (hence why the screamer) no cat just a rear baffled muffler. Adjustable FPR (boost controled) a gen 3 3584rs t51, with a 1.15A/R exhaust and pcmtec professional. I am really happy with the tunes performace and explained what he was doing and why as he went and it pulls like a school boy for only 400rwkw. I told 400rwkw is my goal for safety was told I can go way above that but I want some longevity till I build another engine that I knows good. My concerns are . 1, My screamer just about makes no sound in 3rd and up and I don't hear it at all 1st to 3rd even though it's hitting boost targets and stable while stable pulling really well. I asked the tuner and he said it was how efficient he's controlling and bringing on boost. I miss that aggressive wastegate sound.. pre tune 1st gear would hitting 3000rpm then just almost instantaneously hit 6000rpm with the wastegate screaming. The way it's setup I don't get alot of spin and it puts the power down and it's alot quicker from 3k rpm and keeps pulling more and more as the revs go up through to the limiter Can I get this more aggressive sounding while being safe? And keeping the power around the same level? 2, I noticed under wot in gears 3rd 4th haven't tried higher I see boost moving up and down about 1/2 to 3/4 of a psi I can hear it also. He mentioned it may need a small edit on portortional gain? And it wasn't a big deal to sort out. 3, there was some transmission edits done to the converter, pressures, shifts blah blah. 4, cruise control has disappeared I haven't brought this up Cheers

I'm in NZ mate we don't have have any e85 pumps all we have is 98 and 100 octane with 10% ethanol I only run 100. Been a little busy lately so nothings really advanced. I will post when the time comes. Like I have said I'm not going to squeeze ever ounce of power out of it I'm scared of turning it into a hand grenade. I don't even like the idea of dyno tuning getting thrashed to the limiter lol

Been looking online for wheel alignment specs for FG falcons. I replaced all the rear bushes and rose joints during the weekend and the alignment machine at work is old, like windows XP old (not used often) and only goes to BF, I used the BF strategy and printed it out (its for a modification cert for coil overs) but need the FG strategy with minimum and max tolerances for camber,caster to go with it , cheers I have found a couple of things but it shows way too many variations in ride heights with different casters and camber settings. I dont know what I did to my text either 🤣 thanks

Hey, Still haven't it tune yet. All I have done lately is fitted the bigger injectors. Played around with ghost cams (which I didnt like much, but it was fun to experiment) currently have it on closed loop boost control. Once I have changed the rear muflar to a chambered type. And found a wideband which I dont kniw where to start. It should be ready go. Not sure what it will make but I'm only looking to see if I an round the 400rwkw mark.

Interesting these were his words " I'm happy to tune your car but not interested in tuning it with cams unless you go to a haltech, which we can install and tune for 3900+gst" I thought it was some type of sales pitch turns out it actually a good deal. I did a research and found why he was interested in tuning with cams.. haltech - live tuning. pcmtech - run the car up, turn it off, make adjustments, flash the pcm, run again. And repeat ... seems like pcmtec will add a ton of time during a tuning process then throwing cams into mix.. probably going to end up not using the cams to be honest. I'm a solo dad and I have spent way to much already and I originally was only getting it ready for a mod cert for suspension and wheels and it grew from there. The turbo I had to do the flapper was removed and welded shut the 3584rs gen3 at my cost through work with the t51r mod was only a couple hundred more that get a stock one

Interesting, I was actually turned down from a tuner if I was using these cams, I think they're mild (218b) but also I have been told from a few people that cams aren't worth it

Interesting I thought the cams lift would give it a little more lower. And bring on boost better. Not keen on pushing that much I'm going to be happy under 450 I think it's plenty for now

Hey, it's been on the car a while now I can't really give you a description yet the cars still not tuned but have done around 500kms still with stock cams.. it's a little laggy down low I think when it's tuned with the cams it should improve alot. But in saying that it brings on boost around 2k maybe a little lower and full boost (12psi) around 2.5-2.7k. I haven't given it a hard time yet. Im hoping to have everything done and tuned soon. My priorty now is going through NZ LVVTA at the to get everything done for a modification certificate. so I am trying to do as many things possible so theyre on the cert dongle so when the/or if the cops pull me over they can scan it and all the modifications that the cars been certified for come up. Talked with the guy who's doing the dyno tune. I said I'd like a reasonably safe tune till I have built the other bottom end. Then we can push it he said we'll probably aim for around the 450rwkw mark give or take since it's a stock fg f6 bottom end still seems a little high to me but I'm not going to beat the hell out of all the time

No worries it's just a oscilloscope of the O2 and some voltage monitoring

#80 the values never changed, car was up to operating temp it had been driven.. I sort of don't get what you're saying, what does NB sensor mean? is this assuming the o2 sensor is flogged? maybe this will show more clarity https://streamable.com/keus2l https://streamable.com/qubguq

Was playing around with my mates tool pro OBD scanner thing, was just curious on how well they worked I have a Xtool D7 anyway ive never checked this before there was a 02 sensor test sso I thought ill check it out rich to lean sensor (v) test ID #01 test value 0.4499v minimum limit 0.4499v maximum limit 0.4499v status "Pass" #80 test ID #80 test value 0.0000v minimum limit 0.5600v maximum limit 0.0000v status "Fail" Did this cheap tool just work out my 02 sensor is flogged ?? its never thrown a code before except for a p0420 from having no cat and bigger exhaust or is this just picking up the second 02 sensor (#80)

So the crackle popping sound is the limiter? If I floor it in first it's hits 6-6.2k rpm a few pops out the exaust as it shifts into the next gear? It also does the same crackle pop sound even if I short shift at about 5.5k rpm

Just curious about the rev limiter in the fg turbos themselves. my old bf turbo rev limiter just felt like the car was snapping the throttle open and shut. My xr8 just goes to the rev redline and stays there. My FG I was told there's 2 limiters? I haven't tried holding the limiter before just because of harmonics and fear of oil pump gears. But a few times accelerating hitting red line it pops and crackles and shifts. I know this is unique to fg and newer but I just want to know is that fuel cut limiter bad on oil pump gears? Sorry for the dumb question but searching hasn't found me alot

My G6ET is almost ready for a dyno. I'm just curious on people's thoughts and experiences with going to a aftermarket harmonic balancer im not looking at screaming rpms (6.5k) and it will still be a daily sometimes. I'm just worried about popping oil pump gears as my car will be getting the snot beat out of it on the dyno (not a fan of) And I know harmonics plays a big part in failing oil pump gears I just want know if they're actually worth while and if so what did you use or hear of that's was worth it, bare in mind price matters also, since this started as getting a engineer cert for suspension and wheels and now its gotten out of control cause I may aswell get everything certed right?. I can understand if you go aftermarket rods and pistons the factory balancer possibly could put out harmonics (ignoring the parasitic harmonics from a/c p/steering alternator and water pump. Also mention I do have after market rods pistons for a later build

Bit of an update the the p1227 dtc I was getting as soon as I was over .4bar boost. It seems to have disappeared since I have move boost reference line from the inlet manifold to the front housing on the turbo.. it was never going to stay on the IM it was just so there was so overboost protection till I had sorted something.. it may help someone out one day 😊

Well it was kinda accidentally I just wanted to see if the internal gate was sealing after resetting the preload under boost and it went from 4k rpm to the limiter on the blink of an eye I havent. made a habit of this. I have it sorted from my phone to stop giving it a hard time before the tune while I get other things sorted for the mean time till it's tuned other wise it throws a p1227

Thanks man, appreciate your help. everything seems sorted. now I just need to get it tuned 🙂

cheers man, I went to a few hydraulic specialists and couldn't find the right thread for a nipple. so I may just give that a whirl. Took the car to pulse performance racing engineering and he said just leave it on the manifold its not going to make much of a difference although preferably between the housing an cooler is best. Cars boosting nice now rolling in first boost comes on hard at 4k and hits the limiter almost instantaneous. but one rolling boost in first gear after I hit the limiter then wouldn't boost (p1227 manfacurer control) I cleared it it was fine again. it use to do it every now and again once I had removed the cat and added the EWG. Also, another question reading through PCMtec forums. Gareth ar PPRE said I should be able find prefabricated tune for what I have had done and flash the pcm to be safe and bring it in and he can touch it up. and that a tune with pcmtec HPtuners etc are a hassle to tune and slow because adjustments are done with the car off where as a haltech can have adjustments while the cars running. I seen your name on the PCMtec fourm the and just wanted to ask if you know they have premade tunes?

Well time to come back with my tail between my legs. Now the cars stone car. The internal waste was flopping around I think the reason was rushing things before dark. It appears when I clocked the front housing I never nipped them up. Clocked the housing WG is tight now housing is tight lol and also found what I can use as a boost reference point on the housing bolt. Now to go buy a nipple Haven't driven it yet so I hope that was all it was 600rwkw ? Standard pump gears (I assume, old owner said they were done but I had no proof) valve springs and head studs? https://ibb.co/1b2Nk0F

As odd as it sounds theres a reason 2 WG's I have the stock WG is for a modification cert here in NZ, I had the turbo in and out a few times clocking the core and the housing, once that was done I set the preload. not sure if I did it right, I disconnected and flapper and and adjusted so 3/4 of the eye was showing over and stretched it over. its been a long time but I think that's how you set them? isnt it between half and 3/4 over lap? boost was really late and the EW did not sound as agressive as it use to. possible internal gate still pushing open? since its a 10psi spring? checked the fire ring couldntt see evidence of a leak, had it on the hoist and cant feel or hear anything coming out of the screamer pipe. you think the boost reference line from the turbo to the solenoid to the manifold isn't reading properly and causing this issue? would it be better to run it open loop.. safely? till I get it a nipple tigged onto the IC pipe. which I'll do tomorrow at work if I can. I'm still building another engine, this is still a unopened FG F6, tuned what sort of power do you think I will make safely with mods that been done? 3584 gen3, 1650cc bosch injectors, walpro 525LPh, adjustable boost controlled fuel pressure reg, 3.5" exhaust, no cat or centre muffler, 50mm progate and a 450x420x100 intercooler

Yesterday installed a new psr3584 gen3 with t51r mod and 1.15 AR. There was no where to run the wastegate line on the psr housing so I have plumbed into the inlet. I'm am running a 50mm progate and screamer but the new turbo has the 10psi actuator (Only there for cert then I'm welding it shut). The external wastegate is .9bar or 13psi. Gave its first boot today and it didn't start boost in first till about 5k rpm and the wastegate is opening at .5bar. Is it ok to take boost to the waste from the inlet or should I tap into the charge pipe near the housing. Will boost be pushing open the flapper gate cause lower boost, cause the external is still opening? I'm sure with a tune and the new injectors they can get boost to come on more efficiently or is this going to always be laggy?

Just curious on people's thoughts on these Garrett knock offs good and bad. I have just brought a gen3 3584rs with a 1.15A/R 5 bolt rear and t51r mod front, 10spi actuator. (Only running internal gate on low boost, im running a 60mm progate at the moment) and ANTZ 1250cc bosch injectors ( won't be installing till its at the dyno, I have nothing to scale them) I still have head studs and oil pump gears to do and kelford 218b cams which I think im not going to use, but besides those things what sort power would I expect ? It's a healthy overly maintained stock FG F6 engine