Adam

Yeah, they're no good. Get rid of them. Which ones do you have Mick? I think I could get your car closer to it than I could get my own.

I think those other 2 freeloaders are only in it if it's a car photo shoot, with their cars. What about Steavenson Falls if you're all interest in moving water? I've never been there before. http://www.marysvilletourism.com/steavensonfalls I'm sure there's plenty of other interesting stuff around that area too.

We'd all be taking photos. That's the best way to learn.

Suburb? I'm out in the sticks. The city is an hour and a half away for me. Work out who is interested in going and what they want to do. We'll pick location after that.

Whatever people are interested in. As long as I don't have to drive too far to get there either.

What about 25/26th Feb?

On my camera I can shift the entire bracket. Can you do that on yours?

So it will shoot up to 2 stops either side of your middle exposure? I won't run a workshop. I'm certainly no pro, but I'm happy to come along to a photo day and help out.

No. You can use bracketing for that. The camera will do it all for you.

This would be much easy to explain in practice. Maybe Dillz (finally) has a good idea?

If you want to under/over expose the photo, yes. There's times when you might not agree with the cameras 'correct' exposure. That's when you can override that with exposure compensation. You're basically telling the camera to take what it thinks is the correct exposure and add or subtract whatever compensation amount you've dialled in.

Ok. So in doing that you're making the exact same decision regarding exposure the camera would've made for you in an instant. I'll try and explain it a bit better... You're on Av mode f/8, ISO 100. You frame that shot and focus. In that instant the camera has decided the shutter speed needed to make that photo with 0 EV, so meter at 0. Do the same in manual and zero the meter and the photo will be exposed identically. The only difference is it took longer to arrive at that result. Shooting on manual doesn't add an extra element to the photo that is missing from the other modes.

I don't actually use the histogram myself unless I'm bracketing shots. So when you're using the meter in the view finder do you just adjust the shutter speed and aperture to give you a 0 value. So properly exposed (according to the camera).

Not the metering mode. If you're shooting manual how are you deciding on the exposure metering? Using the meter indicator in the view finder or histogram after the fact on the LCD?

Av mode for most of what I do. I'll use it for moving subjects too. Depends what it is. I don't use Tv a lot. I'll use it if I want to freeze motion, but that's about it. I use M for flash work or static conditions. Depends what I'm trying to achieve. Can you tell me how you're working with in manual? How are you metering and to what value?

Manual is useful, but I wouldn't use it all the time.

Paying someone else to build you a tray?

Didn't you get yellow stickered for those?

You need power not torque.

Yep. Just like every other thing that can go wrong with a car.

It can. Just not high in the rpm range. That's why the boost curve on cars with a stock actuator starts to fall off at higher rpm.

Working fine here.

Let's keep the circus to the couple of existing threads please.

Yeah. That's what I thought too. It all depends what you're into shooting. You'll certainly have enough to keep you busy.

No problems. What's in the kit now?