R31_IceMan

Cheers Tab, I'll still envy everyone that owns there t's whilst I'm back in NA land... anyway life goes on and I'll get another one once I've paid some of the land off... cheers gang

Thanks Tab, love it when a mod gives you a reason to post... but as you can guess its not like I've signed up just to sell its cause I've been around since '06 Cheers to all and hope to see waves from the members if they every see a slow dark blue skyline putting along....

Just saw the new girl at the Melbourne Motor show.... WOW!! its even more gorgeous in the flesh... Sadly its not the 1st R35 GTR in Oz but it will do... Also a note for all petrol heads if you happen to be around whilst the Nissan presenter is talking about the car don't listen to a word he/she is saying cause they talk crap... But for all with DEEP pockets and that will buy or import one before Oz delivery... Can I please have a drive

LAND!!! The partner and I have a desire to get some land say around 1,000 acres, so the ute is going and so is the R31 drifter to give us a head start towards the deposit. sadly means I'll be driving a slow ass R31 skyline again.. I'll miss the torque..

without even reading all replies I'm putting mine down as manual. After owning a 4 speed auto and having it blow I didn't want to blow it again so I spent big cash on a yarra valley auto and its good now, but not very civilized. The gear changes at some RMP drive you nuts and give you a real kick when it changes... Now that I've had it done for over a year I really look back and wish I went manual... it is hole lot cheaper to make the clutch the weak part and blow clutches.. I also note that a originally chose and stayed with auto for the extra towing ability... but its crap anyway... once you get a better than stock clutch you could tow everything the autos could... plus I believe you could BS your way out of it and make the dump copper believe that the manual had a 2300kg towing in turbo without trying But that's my thoughts

My ute started not locking the passenger door tonight :( looks like tomorrow will be filled with removing door trim and hopefully I can fix it. Really sad to see that bosch have been making this for so long and still don't make it last more than 3 years.

G'day guys and girls, Well I've been one of the forum members that just sits in wings. But I thought before my ute is sold I should let everyone know what I've been the proud owner of for the last 2 years. Model: XR6 Turbo Utility Year: 2003 Kilometers: 114.000km Transmission: Semi-Automatic Colour: Silhouette (Black) Modifications/ Options: FPV intercooler, 330mm front brake upgrade, Yarra Valley auto, hard tonneau, Leather and Alarm. Other than that I've loved this car... was very useful for all the work I've done as a PT, mechanic and also for the farm. So here is a few photos and a big HELLO to all and thanks for all the advice, and great posts which have been very helpful. Cheers Dave

The rear brakes are still stock. Never had a problem with them. Have changed pads and rotors in the rear but never detached the lines. When I did the fronts I also made sure that the fluid was free flowing before starting to bleed the brakes. My only other thought is has anyone had problems with the booster?

G'day all, I just upgraded brakes on my BA MkI XR6T Ute to a package the same as this but I got it a lot less than this asking price. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FALCON-BA-BF-330mm-...1QQcmdZViewItem Before and After fitting this kit I had a spongy pedal, I am a service mechanic so I have bleed the brakes about 3 times. Twice on stock set up and Once on this set up and I still have crappy pedal feel. The car pulls up grate and the ABS still works when needed so I'm guessing its not air in the lines, but when the car is stopped I can push the pedal to the floor. I've also made sure the front caliper bleed valve is at the top by moving the caliper off the mounts and it doesn't seem to help. I've also blocked off all 4 lines before going braided and I still had the spongy pedal. So this is leading me to the question of how many people have suffered Master Cylinder failures or spongy master cylinders in there T's? I've also done a search and gone through all that is on this forum about: brakes, bleeding, master cylinder and so on. All helpfully comments please people. cheers Dave

All is well now. Ended up being a dud connection with the Alarm the car was fitted with from factory.

Cheers mate, is there any special tricks I need to know about getting the door skins off so I don't wreck them?

hey guys and girls, I'm a bit stuck with my ute. The drivers side window seems to not want to go up nor down. The controls once removed all have continuity. I can still control the passanger window from the drivers control. is there anyone that has suffered this problem and can help. or is there somewhere I can get a wiring diagram or some advice on how to remove the door trim to check the motor. cheers Dave

If put in by someone really good I expect it to take away the whine and also the clunk that comes from the spacer being set wrong and also being not solid. I'm getting mine for $1,250 with a solid spacer and labour ontop. should be awesome. The reason I'm changing isn't because I've killed the LSD its because sadly although strong there not made that well. being 2 pinion and also having the spring washers flattening themselves through there design. its more a case for me that I've already got one in another car and I want my ute's behaviour to be the same. there 1000% longer lasting and will keep on going for years whilst most people will be on there second or third stock one by then. They also can be very usefull for people that want to give there cars a hard time like drift. happy drifting

As the topic desctiption states boys and girls as of next month the 1st of the Kaaz LSD's for the M86 will be hitting out shores. That means you can kill your stocko diff and then go get a good one. just thought you should all know. Expect them to be around $1,500 or a little less.

Boost Junkie, What mods do you have in the ute? Like whats the cooler? and What did you do to the diff? and did the mods for you. I've seen you drift at Winton whilst I've been there drifting my old R31 Skyline but sadly the Ute is only used as the tow car cause its auto.

Ninka, I did enter the details of mods on the car for a reason. One of them being Yarra Valley Auto. and at $5,000 I'll be pissed if it didn't tow. this is the same spec auto as what sits behind all NIZPRO auto cars. that means if I had the $$$ I could put 400rwkw's through it and it would live. BFSLEEPER (Ben) & Falchoon, I have spoken to an auto engineer and he said its do able but its basically therefore giving the right for all cars with the exact specs at any stage form when I complete it onwards to get rated at 2,300kg without paying the $5,000-$10,000+ I'll have to pay. ZAP_F6 & Fat-Tony, I considered selling the Ute as its only a work horse to carry arond gym equipment and getting a Terry Turbo could do this???? also the terry turbo could tow 2,300kg but that's another loan and come on Ford Utes handel like crap so how much worse would I be if I got a Terry Turbo? Tony they are great in a scright line. With the mods it has now cracked into the 13's and left my mates XR8 behind from the staging line. 2,500rpm stallies really help the turbos come on hard. The only reason I'm trying to get the work horse to tow 2,300kg is so it can tow the R31 Skyline drift bomb and the R32 track car. Finally THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR INPUT. it was great to get an answer on this and even some experience of others. since then I have asctually towed once over 2,500kg and I can tell you that if you can drive (which is generally needed when driving over 3.5tones) its well up to the task with the mods that I have. But I've found the answer to my problem: Don't buy a second hand tanmod trailer and buy a custom one which weights 400kg. DONE Get the skyline's race weights down to under 1,000kg. Done R31, Done R32 thank you all for the replies. Dave

Dear All, I know that people have covered this topic a little over time and I've noticed that in the end it ends up in a cat and dog fight about "why I got an xr8 over the xr6t" I've heard it all and all I want is help on the topic. I own a MkI 2003 XR6 turbo Ute (4sp auto) Mods: Tyhpoon Intercooler Typhoon Oil Cooler Heavy Duty Tow kit Yarra Vally Auto rebuild (basically what you call a Nizpro auto since Tony makes tha autos for Simon) Diff rebuild The ute is about to get Nizpro Stage One, Terry Turbo brakes with greenstuff pads, whitline swaybars and blistien shocks all for birthday Now boys and girls you have an idea of the car. now I need to know how or where I can go to get it engineered to tow 2,300kg. The problem can't be the engines that much can it?? cause terry turbos have 2,300kg tow rating. I might also upgrade the cooler to something a little bigger if needed for the engine if needed but I need advice from someone on how to make this legal. cheers Dave

Keeping it, sorry mate. I've got the $$$ for nizpro stage 1 so will go with stage one and typhoon cooler and will be happy with that as my daily. hopefully I'll be getting 230+rwkw's with it at that stage and all extra $$$ will be going to preventing gearbox blowing up and handeling I can get you another one for around the $500 if your keen to get a typhoon one?

I'm not one to light them up all the time. I can't afford tyres on her whilst I'm paying for the drift/racecar so I went a little over on saying every time you drive it also I want to know that I'm not going to kill it if I drive stupped every now and then does anyone have a pdf of the work shop manual with the LSD section I could have a read over please?

the diff is whining. I believe if I change the oil I'll be the 1st ever to do so, so it may be called for. everyone that has replied how do you treat your car. do you spin the wheels nearly every 2nd time your in the car or everytime how often are you reiling on it to lock up?

hmmm sounds good has anyone had a problem? mine is 75,000km old and is starting to make a little noise (maybe needs an oil change) but I would really like to know if I got the type of diff centre correct as well and who got theirs tightened and who hasn't cheers guys and gals

G'day guys and girls, I've spend the last hour and a bit searching all over the formus and net trying to get info on the strength of the ute LSD, but to no end I've found S.F.A. I've learnt I think that the LSD in the use is a Dana M86 LSD (please correct me if I'm wrong). My ute has 70,000km on the clock and the LSD still works like a dream but I do know that I drive the car a lot harded than the previous owner so I'm a little worried about the expected life of the LSD. Who owns a ute and how long did it take you to kill the LSD? What diff did you put back in? And how long should I expect it to last when its given a little drift every now and then? or should I just get Yarra Vally Autos to give it a look over whilst they do the auto? cheers and thanks for the help guys

Well I feel a little stuped. How good are the Typhoon coolers? is it worth just selling it or will it be good for the 250rwkw's I want. I need to remember it is only a work car.

RAP1D, Can I get an idea of what you would be recommending in the way of better cooler and guages for not much more? I tried Rajab and at $1,100 fitted and Alan wouldn't give me a price for one not fitted. I am only after getting the car a little cooler for towing and maybe a Nizpro stage 1 just for a little more go. The guages I wanted the Oil pressure more than the Boost. I'm already replacing the boost with a Defi which is in psi.