Mox32r

Yeh I found them. I don't like signing up to random things online for a file. And the ford forum one I didn't see ba falcon. There's a Bluetooth repair guide and fairlane

Did the BA Falcon one get removed or something? The folders are Empty??

Hey guys. I have decided to go all out with this xr6 turbo Ute but need to sort out some issues. First off this is the first time I have touched it since about a week after my last post on here. I got to work one morning, drove there fine as normal but when I got to it in the arvo it would not run/idle properly. Like it was running on 3 or 4 cylinders, and when it's doing this the throttle is completely unresponsive as if it's not even connected. So I got the error codes and they are the same as when it over boosts. Codes p1270 and p2110. But if I start it with my foot on the accelerator it will start and rev up to about 3k then drop to 2k and stay there. Idling at 2k but without any codes at all. Anyone got any ideas?

Hey guys. Over my litre tantrum with the BA lol. I have decided to go all out with this thing and need to sort out some issues. First off this is the first time I have touched it since about a week after my last post on here. I got to work one morning, drove there fine as normal but when I got to it in the arvo it would not run/idle properly. Like it was running on 3 or 4 cylinders, and when it's doing this the throttle is constantly unresponsive as if it's not even connected. So I got the error codes and they are the same as when it over boosts. Codes p1270 and p2110. But if I start it with my foot on the accelerator it will start and rev up to about 3k then drop to 2k and stay there. Idling at 2k but without any codes at all. Anyone got any ideas?

Lol I come from owning an R32 gtr and supercharged ls 6.0. I know all about modifications being needed. But the videos I have watched and threads I read lead me to believe it was basically a bolt in affair apart from the compressor housing piping needing to be larger. I absolutely hate this car with a passion and was only upgrading the turbo as it needs to be fixed or replaced to make it easier to sell. You can have them all to your self mate 👍

Yehh maybe. I think I'd rather just sell all this sh*t and put the stocker back on. I didn't buy this to spend money so much money on it. Thanks for the advice fellas. I appreciate it

That's with the supplied 45. Although I didn't get the 4"-4" just the supplied 3-4 as I thought I was going to do the battery relocation before I did the turbo. I guess Cutting the 45 back towards the turbo will work, but the return intercooler pipe faces that spot. I feel my choices would be make this work, which would be getting an intercooler that exits on the passenger side and preferably a throttle body relocation to not have to Crossover the engine at all, or put the stocker back on after I rebuild it

Yeh I know, I know. Just frustrated because I guess nobody has upgraded a turbo and left the factory style intercooler. It just impossible for it to work like that. Yeh I got the antz kit but realised I need to changed the intercooler asweell so it doesn't have both pipes on the driver side. And maybe cutting the 45 way down might work I guess...

OK seriously now. Is there anything you can upgrade these days that doesn't in turn need everything attached to it either modified or changed???? Just installed the pulsar 3584 gen 2 and there is no way any pipe work will connect to it. How are you supposed to connect it to a filter when it's only like 3inches away from the power steering pump.

OK so I just took the oil filler cap off while it was running and there was not even the tiniest bit of smoke or puffing. And just then starting it was a struggle. I just did not want to start. I had to use the accelerator to get it going and when it finally started it was like it was running on 4 or 5 cylinders I brought the revs up to about 2200 and it started to smooth out back to normal. This I <3 Bananasing heap of sh*t is doing my head in. It will be for sale very soon so I can buy my ss back lol

Oh sh*t really. I will check that out when I get a chance. Thanks again mate.

Damn. Wonder what it is then. I checked the coil packs one by one and they are working fine. I will have to check the other thread again. With that I just replaced the rad to a 50mm one so I will see how it goes. The a/c condenser looked a little on the blocked side and I cleaned that up as much as I could. Why on earth ford would cover the entire tiny radiator with an a/c condenser is beyond me lol

OK so I found that the first wire gets to 4.5v being turned halfway. Stays at 4.5 from half to full. The last wire was normal seeming. As in the percentage of throttle directly related to a percentage of 5 volts. Like halfway was 2.5ish volts. I did the same test with the throttle body connected and the first wire seemed to be more consistent with where the throttle blade was but the last wire was still 1.6v at full throttle. Doe this all seems OK? Just about the tackle the coils

Ah OK no worries 👍 will let you know how I get on

Mate you're a champion. OK so the brown with white trace is constant 5v and the red is negative. Righto, I did spray all the connections I had disconnected with contact cleaner but yehh I will check again when I get a chance.

OK sweet. Thanks mate. I appreciate it

OK so these were the codes. B1262, B2014, P0532, P1227, P1270, P2105, P2110, U1900, U2196, U2197. Cleared them then next time were B2005, B2006, B2139, P0196, P0532, P1227, P1260, P1285, P1299, U1147, U1900. Then P0121, P0121, P0124, P0223, P0224, P0532, P1270, P1474, P2110, U1900. These only come up after giving it a bootful. The only one that's there no matter what is the a/c as it needs gas. The Abs I fixed by cleaning the sensors and the ones to do with the fan are because I bypassed the really with a switch to see if 8 could get the thung to run cooler but tuning the fan on sooner

OK so I thought it could be on the way out making problems. I did clean it when I did the Coil packs, it didn't really even need a clean but it got one. I think I need to just pull the Coil plugs off when it's running and see which if any make a difference. I will upload the screenshots of codes I have pulled. I cleared them each time and these are what come up after I have given it to it. If I just baby it the only code that comes up is the a/c one because it's out of gas. I have a new turbo to go as I was having the over boosting and bypassed the boost solenoid which helped a little but not a great deal, and the turbo shaft has a lot of play. OK so I don't know how to upload an image lol

Oh sweet thanks mate. That would be great. Has a bit of a miss/rough idle, and some of the codes I have retrieved point to that. Made a crude smoke machine to check for a vacuum leak which I can rule out. The rough idle was present before I changed the coils out, and in doing so I found that no.1 and 3 spark plugs were completely submerged in oil, but after the gasket fixes and Coil + plug change the miss didn't go away. I need to pull the coils and plugs again to check but just checking things along the way. And I figured checking sensors with a multimeter is an easy way to work out whether they need replacing or not

I no longer even have a laptop mate. It umm fell apart 😕. I have the forscan app which I paid for and an obdlink mx+. Could I see that info in that? Pretty sh*tty support they have but. I can't even join the forum or contact them. I had to contact them via google play and still no reply

Hey guys. Just wondering if anyone can help me with info on checking the tps with a multimeter? I have found vids and info on the 3 wire sensors but nothing for 4 wire. Well found 1 site but its for Mitsubishi eclipse. Would it be the same as that? Or do they differ vehicle to vehicle?

So I just replaced the valve cover gasket and jesus that was well overdue. This thing had been neglected. The seals and gaskets were plastic lol. Number 1 and 3 plugs were completely submerged in oil. Anyway, the compression check showed 160-165 in all cylindrr apart for number 2. It was 150. Is 10 psi difference in 1 cyl an issue for a barra? Had no Coolant or anything in that cylinder. New 50mm rad on the way and I rigged up a switch for stage 1 fan to turn it on when I want to see if that makes any difference.

It's an aftermarket hose. Mackay I believe. I went to get a gates one but they feel soft too. I don't think these have the spring from factory. I am trying to find an aftermarket one to put in the hose though. I am going to experiment with switching the fan 1 system on manually at an earlier temp to see if that helps too. Although the other day when it was sitting on 106 degrees or so the fans were flat out and it wasnt coming back down. The drive home that day from Canberra the temp that day dropped dramatically and so did the temp in the Ute, it was hovering around the 88-92 mark until I was going up an incline where it would climb to 107 or so. This sh*t can't be normal

It has none of the issues you get with a head gasket though. No Coolant in the oil or exhaust. And no oil in the Coolant or fuel in the Coolant. Will do a compression test on each cylinder when I chuck the new Coil packs in anyway.

Yeh I am thinking it sucks flat when I am having the heating issue. It's oval shaped just sitting there now with the engine off. How soft are these bottom hoses usually? It seems so effing soft hey