Marto48

Yeah I thought that’d be the case, just got a bit worried when he said it sounds like low oil pressure. Cheers for your input and fingers crossed they can figure it out for me!

Gday, hasn’t had a tune yet, but is booked in, I only idled the car home pretty well without getting on boost. The tuner recons it could be the oils thinning out at operating temp. I’m running the oil that they have recommended (Penrite 10w50 full synthetic). He also recons that none of the mods I’ve done should be affecting the idle at all. Here’s a list of the mods I’ve done to it: Flex plate bolt retainer Pulsar 3584 gen 3 turbo Yella terra billet flexplate Boundary oil pump gears Boundary oil pump backing plate ARP head studs Crow cams race valve springs Bosch 1250cc injectors (injectors aren’t installed currently) Walbro 460 fuel pump (pump not installed currently) Turbo side intake Throttle body elbow upgrade Stage 2 intercooler kit 4” turbo back exhaust Genuine ford timing chain tensioner Atomic timing chain kit External wastegate with screamer I asked about the 4” exhaust possibly being an issue due to back pressure but was told it wouldn’t be that. Cheers!

Gday everyone, just had the motor out of my G6ET to put new oil pump gears, valve springs, head studs and a few other goodies in, put everything back together and started up and was completely fine, drove the car home from the workshop and it stalled out as I pulled into my driveway. Car was at operating temperature and just stalled and wouldn’t start without giving it a bit of accelerator. Started back up but would not idle at all. Any ideas what this could be? Just tried it again today after letting it cool down overnight, same story. Started and idled at around 640rpm, got to operating temperature, stayed there for around 10 minutes then just stalled out and wouldn’t start again without throttle. Fingers crossed someone’s come across this previously and knows how to fix. Cheers!!

Are you talking about the phasers ? We left them in the cam caps when we had removed them, would this have caused damage ?

Gday everyone, have just installed ARP headstuds, upgraded valve springs and atomic heavy duty timing chain kit into my G6E turbo while the motor was out to get oil pump gears installed. Dropped the motor back into the car, plugged in all sensors and wiring, bolted all accessories back on ready for first startup. It ran for a few minutes then an engine light came on, turned the car off and plugged a scan tool in to find P1383 and P1388 codes which come back to both cams being overretarded. What could be the cause of this? All timing marks are 100% lined up, I used a genuine ford chain tensioner and it has been pretensioned. Anyone had this issue before? All help appreciated! Cheers

Gday, got this rattle / actuator noise behind my dash which is driving me crazy, wondering if anyone’s had this issue before and knows what it is? Definitely inside the cabin and not an engine rattle. Attached a video of the noise, cheers!

Sorry wasn’t very clear about what I was doing. What you said is exactly what I’m doing, trying to find the source to the factory amp from the head unit, to then wire in a line output converter to run to a amplifier which will then power a sub. Cheers for the link, must’ve been half asleep when I was looking through the forums 😂. Will have a gander now. Have a good weekend!

Gday, got a 2010 G6E Turbo that I’m currently planning to put a sub in using a output converter. It has the premium sound pack optioned from the dealer installed with the factory 8” subwoofer. Does anyone have a wiring layout / diagram of the plug going into the amp? Trying to do it as neat as possible without running unnecessary extra wiring from the speakers if I don’t have too. Cheers!