FGXTaxes

My car was Frankensteined with a Ford RTV by the previous owner. It's an FG X Falcon with RTV suspension. I have no idea what this rear bushing is and this bolt seems to be wrong too. If anyone could identify the parts this would be a major help, and a product link or something. Getting loud clunks from the rear on the backend when turning.

My car was Frankensteined with a Ford RTV by the previous owner. It's an FG X Falcon with RTV suspension. I have no idea what this rear bushing is and this bolt seems to be wrong too. If anyone could identify the parts this would be a major help, and a product link or something. Getting loud clunks from the rear on the backend when turning.

I think you are right, from what I can see online other FG X Utes don't have this. Do you reckon I could just remove it? It isn't an RTV, it is a 2016 FG X Cab Chassis Ute I am hoping I can simply remove it, if it's a non-OEM add-on?

Hi guys, Having trouble identifying this part as well as sourcing a replacement part. I believe it is a trailing arm but cannot find any information on google nor in the Haynes manual. I am getting a loud clunking when weight shifts as well as during parking lot maneuvers/ bumps Confirmation of part name and where to replace it would be much appreciated

Think it's a U Joint, is that correct? And the rubber seal needs to be replaced. Could anyone confirm this diagnosis and what the part names are? Thanks heaps in advance. The noise in question (Click Here)

Good point. I can always go back and upgrade it later. I'll do the install work myself, I quite enjoy pulling sh*t apart and have done heaps on my vehicles in the past. My only labour costs should hopefully be tuning.

That's my plan sorted then, thanks heaps. Can I do a flex fuel setup? If not it's no worries, got an E85 pump round the corner from my place.

So just injectors and pump? What kind of power can I expect out of that? It doesn't need to be stupid quick while on my P's, especially as I'm conscious of a P - Plater's overestimation of driving ability. Would just like to put a comfortable distance between myself and SV6/XR6/GTI at the lights.

Fair enough, but just thinking that if they do poke around in the engine bay they aren't going to find much, especially if the cat is stock. How would they know it's hollowed out? The smell? Just trying to minimise risk should I get pulled over. @k31thAlso would a small cam (Nothing lumpy and obvious) be worth it with the setup I've got in mind? Expensive? Yes. Will I get any noticeable power increase from a small cam though?

I'd think a hollowed out stock cat would be less obvious than a hi-flow right? How would the EPA know? Not planning on blaring around town with a loud exhaust! Hoping a stock looking, quiet ford territory (turbo) won't draw much attention anyway.

Any idea if it's possible to just hollow the cat out while I'm debunging the exhaust?

Hey All, Just picked up a territory turbo and keen to get a bit more power out of it. As a P plater, I am unable to have performance mods for police and insurance reasons. What mods go well on these vehicles that isn't going to run much risk of being picked up? I was thinking 1000cc injectors & fuel pump + dyno tune. Keen to hear other suggestions. Obviously can't do CAI, Intercooler, etc. Got to keep that engine bay looking stock! Not planning on ricing the car out either, so no stupid rims and stickers to attract attention.

Interesting to note, but may I ask the relevance? Your other comment had some awesome information too so cheers for taking the time to reply Puffwagon. I'd probably do a new head at some point, I suppose the question can best be surmised as what is the most cost effective route for big numbers assuming minimal labour costs. Planning on buying a NA Barra Motor as a little project, buying a rebuild kit and doing it myself in tandem with the HP academy Engine Building course. Bit of fun to expand my current knowledge and then in a year or two I'd look at swapping the motor into my FG-X Cab Chassis Ute. How would you go about it?

As above, if going for say 600kw does it matter if you start with a turbo motor or NA etc? My understanding is that as you push for big numbers the valve springs/conrods/pistons will need to be upgraded regardless, so is there any disadvantage starting with a short block NA motor and building it up? Additionally, how would you test the viability of a standalone motor prior to sale? Compression test? Visual inspection? Cheers guys

Seems like the consensus is that it makes a big difference. Would you say it's overhyped? Reckon it'd shave a couple seconds off my stock NA 0-100?

Hey mate, it's the NA Inline 6. I've went from the 2.73 to the 3.45 and I am having it installed on Monday. They used the 3.45 in the manuals and from what I hear, it's easy to adjust for in a tune. Having my tuner adjust my speedo for the new gear ratio early August. Wish me luck mate!

I am looking to change the diff ratio on my Auto, Naturally Aspirated FG-X Cab Chassis Ute. Currently it has a 2.73:1 Ratio. I am going to put in a limited slip diff as the car has no traction stock, and am planning to change up the ratio while I'm at it. I would like better off the line acceleration, without having an excessively loud and high revving engine during daily driving. This car has new headers, cams and an air intake in it's near future. What ratio would you choose and what performance gains can I expect?