rapidyellowxr6t

That sounds good, I was thinking of just replacing bushes/ball joints and reusing the stock arms. I have access to a shop press at work so that makes life easier. Might pick up a super pro front end kit off eBay, have heard bad stories about sparesbox.

As by the title I’m looking for recommendations and experience from people who are running after market bushes in the front of their Ts. A lot of people mentioned superpro, nolathane and white line. My car is a mild street car that is a daily at the moment.

This was exactly what was causing the drama. Pulled the over off and there was water that had pooled around the coils. Blew most of the water out with a blower and reassembled everything. Hooked up the oil pressure gauge to the side of the block just to eliminate any doubts I had. Car was missing again briefly but returned to normal fairly quickly with oil pressure reading fine on the gauge. Thanks for the advice mate, I was assuming worst case scenario as I was mucking around with the oil but ended up being a happy enough ending.

Forgot to mention that the car has a 2004 BA turbo motor so the Z9 is what was on the car and what I replaced it with. I only rinsed the exhaust manifold turbo and dump pipe as is where I spilled some of the oil when refilling the car. Im going to go and buy 6L of 15w oil tomorrow and change it and hopefully its just down to wrong viscosity.

Hi, Today I put Penrite 5w-40 and a new ryco Z9 on my 2005 BF XR6T. I initially put 5L in which was roughly the same amount that I drained out of the car. The dipstick read just below the OK line, I figured it would still be working its way down into the sump. Gave the exhaust manifold and surround areas a clean with some degreaser where I spilled the oil and then washed it off with the hose. Fired the car up and started up nice but within 30 seconds it started to run really sh*t and I thought I could hear a knock so I instantly killed the engine. There was no Oil pressure warning on the dash, I went to repco before they shut and bought another litre and chucked it in. Now it was sitting in the OK level, I fired it up again and the same thing happened it ran nicely for about 45 seconds and then it felt like it was misfiring and I could hear a knocking sound of some description coming from the engine so I shut it off again. I understand the recommended oil is 15w-40 but I have seen heaps of people on here running 5w with no dramas. Any ideas on what to do next as I am concerned that I do not want to damage the engine any more than may of already happened. Thanks

Okay mate I’ll give that a go, currently in Brisbane so it’ll have to wait for a few days. Fingers crossed it’s just a filter. Would I just clean the rail and injectors with some brake clean?

Hi guys, I was driving my xr6t home after work in a rush to head to the airport. The tank was low but I thought I would have enough to make it home. After moving off from a red light the car throttle lost all response and then the engine died while driving. I pulled it over and went and put 5L of fuel in it from a Jerry can and it sort of coughed spluttered a bit but wouldn’t fire properly. Then put another 5L in today and did the same and now it will not even try to fire. I’m suspecting fuel pump or fuel filter but I’m wondering what’s the best way to diagnose what’s going on. It has a wall bro 460 in it. Any help appreciated.

Hello brains trust. I recently removed the rear disks on my xr6t 05 BF and got them machined. I banged on them with a rubber mallet alot and used the bolt for the caliper mount to help break the seized rotor from the hub. Now when I try to refit them the rotor is right up against the caliper mount opposite the piston. I have not been able to figure out what is causing this other than the hub has been misaligned while I was trying to get the rotor off. Any help much appreciated.

Yeah I’m not planning on putting much of my money into this engine. A rebuild with forged internals could come later down the track, I just want something affordable that works so I can drive my car as I enjoy it. Are you running the aeroflow rear housing? I am wondering if that will need a port job or not, I understand it comes with a 32mm waste gate.

Is there any feedback on the aeroflow units ? They seem pretty decent for the price but can’t find any information regarding them

New member here. I have a BF t56 xr6t that is currently going through the bolt on mod phase. Recently I have discovered that my rear housing is damaged and effecting the wastegate from opening and closing properly and also that my turbo core is stuffed on my factory 3582. I want to know what are some budget friendly options people have gone with for replacing these parts. I have considered buying a pulsar gtx3582 turbo however my tuner indicated that the compressor housing can rotate causing the actuator to not work properly and become 'lazy' and advise going external gate with that set up. A second opinion from another shop suggested going for the aeroflow 6662 (3582) replacement however I can not find much information about these units online if they are any good. The other direction I have investigated is buying another after market rear housing (aeroflow, pulsar) and rebuilding my current turbo with a pulsar CHRA drop in. I am after some advice on which direction to go in for an IWG set up that will work effectively and will not blow my budget out anymore than it already has. I am not chasing big power as I have a BF 1 engine and do not want to bend a rod. Cheers