sicklaser

yes its worth replacing them and if they are anything like the BA/BF there is more than enough room for some alpine tweeters

go no further take it to ford and get them to fix it OR get the AUX input kit and an ipod and use it instead

the alpine splits dont have an "on-the-outside" pillar mount or in other words a surface mount kit. they can only be fitted by cutting big hole into a panel somewhere to flush mount OR get yourself some premium sound pillars with the little grills in them and mount the bare tweeter behind them. I just realised this is for an FG. above is how you would do it for a BA/BF. not sure if it is 100% correct with the FG as I havent worked on one yet

the shiftkits.com one reads from your crank sensor

Here here

I'd love to know about this as well?

a mp3 cd should hold about 120 average sized songs. depending on the ipod they acn hold up to 25000 songs. and all at the click of a button

A decent car audio shop probably charge about $700-800 to fit it in about a day and a half. A sh*t car audio shop would probably do it for about $500 but only take day cuase of their short cuts. A DIY if you havent done it a few times before would probably take you about 4 days.

what do you mean remote wire? your new headunit will have a remote wire that runs to an electric aerial or amplifier.

can I ask why you, or anyone, doesn't like iTunes? I've been using it for years and is simple and straight-forward to use. Never had a drama with it

I noticed on second look of the jaycar site that they CAN be strapped together to make 1800rms so my bad there. Remember that is probably measured at at least 10% THD. A rubbish amp can make your sub sound just as bad as a rubbish amp on your speakers. on a cheap amp your bass will be muddy and uncontrolled. a better amp will rectify this. power means a hell-of-a-lot when it comes to subs but its no good without the control (dampening factor) as well. this is where cheap amps suffer.

No good. They will only make about 400 rms into 4ohm load (one coil) Not enough power even if you had two amps. that's still only 800watts rms. Need at least 1000. Dont run a high end woofer off something half-arsed like the jaycar amps. Yeah they make some power but they sound horrid. You dont want to make your $800 woofer sound like a $200 woofer.

dual 4 ohm woofer can be either 2 or 8 ohm. you need a good mono block that makes AT LEAST 1000 watts RMS at 2ohm. I wouldnt think you would be looking for a moderate amplifier if you spent so much on a single woofer. Would have been better off getting Type R woofer and Amplifier for not much more than the Type X on its own. I had a young girl bought a Type X 12 and ran it off a WOW brand "Option Audio/Sound Magnus" amp. It ended in tears and her being $800 down. Buy an $800 woofer, be prepared to spend double on an amp!!

the colour are spot on. the negative speaker wire have the black trace on them. they are in a big orange connector behind the kick panel. Make sure your run your speaker wires into the SPEAKER side of the wires you cut. Not the wires that lead back to the ICC.

NEVER put an amp upside down, even if it is over a hole. the heat sink is designed to draw the heat from the amps insides. this heat then rises straight back into the amp. make a cradle to mount it up there but right way up. the heat from the heatsink will then rise up out of the hole from the factory sub.

you need to get in contact with ASL logistics and get their video input kit here is the link

I have pioneer PRS 17cm splits in the front of my BF. They measure 67mm deep. I used a 12mm mdf spacer that I fibreglass resined to waterproof it. The woofer doesnt hit the window but did hit the back of the door trim when it was at higher volumes. I have done some mods to my front door trims to strengthen them up and stop the plastic junk from rattling with decent mid bass. I will pull them off and take some pics one day as well and post them up.

perfectly said I have run an installation workshop for about 7 years now and there are a few pet hates for installers. one of them being people that buy gear somewhere else and want to pick your brain on how to fit it themselves. usually most of the failed home jobs that I get come thru end up costing more cause you have to spend a few hours back tracking and pulling every possibe piece off the car to find their faults. im not saying dont do it yourself. but make sure if you are going to try then think about every part of the job and if there are things your not sure on then take it and get it done properly. a $1000 set of splits wont work as good as a $200 set if not fitted properly. proper installation is equally as important as any component in the system.

make sure you get the american version. I think its the VBA-222 (aust version is 222r) get the one without the R to get proper full speed ipod. alpine australia arnt even really aware of this

if you use 6mm mdf the distance between the speaker and door trim will be fine. I you use 12mm mdf you will need to cut the plastic frame work on the back of the door trim. only make them out of 6mm unless you really need the depth for the magnet to clear the window.. oh and mdf is highly pourous so will soak up any water within miles of it so make sure you paint them in something waterproof.

lol... pictures now??? someone needs a hobby hahahaha nah jokes. the pics explain it perfect. this should be made a sticky if its not already

man, awesome post. must have taken you hours to write that lol can I just point out to everyone that a 'active crossover' is a unit powered by 12 volts that acts on the low level (RCA) signal. A 'passive crossover' is the one that comes with your splits or on the back of the tweeters in your coaxial speakers. It acts on the high level output of your amplifier or headunit and sends the right signals to the tweeters and woofers etc. Well donw smicky

wouldnt bother. they are poo but with those jaycar amps everything will sound bad...

the 3sixty does have level controls between the input rca plugs. these work for the high-level input as well. any amp will make full power with as little at 1 volt input. that's what the gain control is for.

I would say that the accessories is backfeeding the dash illumination and park light circuits. double check the wiring behind the headunit. see if the stereo turns on (without the keys in the ignition) by turning on the headlighs.