Snowbear77

YES, dual zone................I'll give it a go. cheers

Could these symptoms mentioned in the previous post be related to the HVAC system?

update. The sound stopped completely, until I recently turned the heater on during a cold drive, and the knocking has since been constant in the last 2 days of driving. This knocking is constant even when the air con/heater is completely turned off . If what you suspect @hoe about the hvac, is it a 'dash out' job to replace the hvac bearings?

Ok, I'll try again for a recording.........

Today, the crackling started today as I turned the car to accessories after being parked for 12 hours...........audio was off, air con was off. I got my head down below the steering wheel , and it sounds like it could be coming from the back of the ICC or just to the right of it.....I tried to record it on my phone, though I couldnt hear it when I played the video back......

Just within the last week, my dash has developed a 'sound of light crackling, under the dash. It stops ( temporary when I change the vents direction, or change between internal or external ventilation. It dosent stop when I turn the air con unit off. It just keeps on crackling. Once, it kept happening after even removing the keys, but stopped when I locked the car. Sometimes, when I've driven it lately, there's no noise at all. Anybody come across this before........?

cheers

Hey guys I bought a pair of triple gauge pods to mount on top of my ICC over a year ago ( bought a spare, if I broke one ), obviously the easiet way is to just remove the ICC from the car and run the harness and remount the ICC., but I am concerned about all the things that can go wrong when playing with the ICC. Obviously after taking the top off, is it possible to just fish the harness down the passenger side of the ICC without removing the ICC? Obviously, I'm going to power it via the 'power source outlet ' on the middle console. thanks

The louder , the better......lol

the cut-out exhaust has a winder motor , just like a electric window. A on/off wont wont. With the adjustment of the winder motor, you can open it a bit/ half way or full fat throttle. I just need to find the 2 wire's that redirect the power of the window going up or down. ( obviously, I'll tap into them on the middle pillar, and run them through a grommet hole under that back seat. I already have one on my XF ( for 10 years ).......and works perfectly .Here it is.......https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/265739340623

I'm looking into plumbing a 4 inch electric cut-out exhaust to dump just before my rear baffle ( giving the car a louder note ( instant cop bait, I KNOW! )). Instead of wiring a seperate switch/harness to activate it, I've been thinking of finding the 2 wires that runs into the rear window, that are connected to the open/shut from the drivers door, and then having the ability to open/shut my cut-out exhaust from my drivers door. Obviously the window wont anymore from the drivers door, but am hoping that it can still be opened from the switch on the rear door.( not going to loose any sleep if it never opens ) Is there any chance that a fault code could pop up?

Your right @Puffwagon I dont know what I looked at to see that price ........but the price on ebay is a lot cheaper like you stated. Already found a lower heat shroud for the engine mount.

Ok, gonna hunt one down. I'm not expecting a miricale fix with the heat shroud over the engine mount- seeing that the prices for hydraulic engine mounts cost upto $1000 each.

Update.........took it to the mechanic and he suspects the hydraulic engine mounts are failing. They're reacting to the extra heat on our extra hot perth days, giving the difference in driving and unpredictability of feeling bumps. I do have a turbo set-up running a 4 inch exhaust near the engine mount. I've seen the heat shrouds that come from factory, but am aware there are 3 shrouds ( 1 over the turbo, one over the exhaust manifold ( behind the power steering )). Where dose the 3rd mount?

It's a real oddity. I've driven 100km since my post above, and all has been good. Just to go over the symptom's better.....when going over pot holes /bumps/train tracks etc, I feel the bump ( excessively )through the accelerator pedal, with sometimes feeling the bump in my left foot beside the brake pedal. It really is an oddity that I cant find anything loose when I have the car jacked or on ramps. The shocks are brand new - ish. Though something is definitely the way is used to be......hence the thought previously, there might be a crack in the firewall, or a weld somewhere has failed.