Wazza54

The alternator has to come out through a gap between the roll bar and the suspension frame from underneath the car. Need to remove the air intake to the turbo and intercooler pipe from the turbo, makes it easier seeing. Take the fans out as well, makes it easier. Before you put the new alternator, make sure the rear support attachment is threaded, mine wasn't, and I found out once it was in place.

I am replacing the alternator on my FG XR6 Turbo. I have the alternator removed and is sitting between the motor and radiator as I figure how to get it out. If it was a NA motor, it would be out now, but the turbo's intercooler pipes make it more difficult. I have removed the top part of the intercooler from the turbo outlet, but the bottom part of the pipe that goes to the intercooler is still in the road. This looks as though it would a major job removing this part of the pipe. Anyone who has replaced an alternator on a Falcon turbo could you suggest the best way to remove the alternator.

How hard is it to remove the front spring bushes? Do I need a press to remove them? The rear bushes look pretty easy. Thanks

The tailshaft is the original OEM part. The one in my ute was not serviceable. I was told Ford had 3 tailshaft for the ute, with 2 being serviceable and one not.

The rubber holding the centre bearing perished and failed on the original tailshaft. This tailshaft was unserviceable as the centre bearing could not be removed and replaced. So the only choice was a new one. I didn't want a second hand one, so my only choice was a new one. I spoke to Mal Wood from Mal Wood Automotive today about a tramp rod kit he sells. He says by removing the rubber packers and spring saddles as well as installing the tramp rods will eliminate the axle housing wind up, which will stop the CV from failing. Only trouble is the tramp rod kits are not cheap, but then again it beats sitting on the side of the road with another broken CV. This is the same setup the Falcon utes used in the V8 ute series. https://malwoodauto.com.au/product/tramp-rod-kit-suit-ford-falcon-ute/ Hardy Spicer are sending a new CV to the workshop who are doing the repairs, which is covered by warranty. I bought it on 6/10/2021.

The tailshaft was bought new from Hardy Spicer for $1700, where the one from Ford was quoted just under $3000, you can see the reason why I bought the Hardy Spicer one. Also, the Hardy Spicer should at least be the quality (if not better) than the OEM one and the centre bearing is serviceable as well. The tailshaft is still under warranty (bought 6/10/2021) so they are sending a new part to fitted. Like I said in my post, there must be some way of stopping the diff housing from twisting, causing the failure of the rear CV joint. Hardy Spicer said this is an issue with lowered Falcon utes, but mine is not lowered, but was towing a light caravan which dropped the rear of the car about 10 mm.

My 2009 FG XR6T had what looks like a rear tail shaft CV failure. This is on a vehicle that is 100% stock standard. The CV was on a brand new tail shaft that fitted 12mths ago, so my factory tail shaft lasted 12 years and my new lasted 12mths, not good. I was taking off from a set of traffics lights towing my 1300kg caravan when the failure happened. Nothing different to when the old tail shaft was in. Now the question is about a fix to overcome this happening again. I have read that King Springs make rear springs with a reverse eye (what ever that means) which will help as well fitting track rods, or both. Has anyone any suggestions that I can do to reduce or stop the CV from failing again. Thanks