MiKa

JK Tyre group buy... If it can control that thing an XR6T should be piss easy...

My Earls one leaked twice, I'm on my third one now, hopefully this one lasts.. My turbo is still alive (fingers crossed)

I got the shortened ones from WS..

Frankston isn't that bad... just don't get out of the car heheh

LOL...

If you want to go slower, get a manual..

WOW that does look good... Taurus FTW henz, that pic is a classic lol... My preferred technique is to get it to spin.. love getting it right on the edge then it spins back and cleans them all up.. That dude on the mountain bike would have the biggest balls ever... to even attempt some of the sh*t he does..

If its been looked after I don't see why not.. but I'm not sure if they had the bigger rods in them.. I'd be getting an FG if I were you even if it takes up your whole budget, they are a better car all round, from what I've heard, and quicker stock, so you would be happy with it in stock form for a while..

Agree with Henz, have it detuned for a while till u get used to it.. Stepping in a 300kw car at 18 is bad enough let alone 450.. I'd recommend doing one of those driver training days too.. not just cause your getting a powerful car, the course would be good even if you drove a corolla..

Mate two posts asking the same thing... you posted this in the 400rwkw section, just see what others have done, if you can't find your answer here theres something wrong.. Auto or manual? Manuals will read more power than autos with the same mods, less drivetrain loss.. Whats better, that's a personal choice, what do u like better? you gonna take the car to the drag strip? A 6sp manual will need a decent clutch and the auto if a ZF might budget to strengthen it, but with the new tuning available maybe they can be tuned to take more power. If a BTR (4 speed) auto, not much can be done to hold 400rwkw's and be reliable, again look at what others have done and go from there..

Sure do and still looks sweet <------------------

Ok cool, yeah there tools looked great and was a fair bit cheaper too..

Was that their own brand TTi? Cause they do sell a lot of brands there..

Got mine sorted today.. It was a worn bush on the right rear arm that was buggered, causing the wheel to wobble whilst driving.. Got that, diff bush and a ball joint replaced and the car is smooth as now and has gotten rid of a lot of the clunks I was getting.

LOl quadie makes it sound soo easy... if my BA motor went I would def not be putting another BA one in that's for sure... Good luck mate.

Hey, Im after a good brand of tools. Mainly used at home to work on the car and odd jobs. I want something that's gonna last me years. I know kincrome and sidchrome have a good name, but I hear its hard to get any warranty stuff from them. I've been told repco make a good tool, and you can just walk in and swap the tool over if anything wrong happens. I also went into total tools, and they have there own range, which looked good, and the guy was saying their quality was a s good as kincrome and sidchrome. There warranty was the same as repcos one too.. I don't mind paying for good quality tools, but Snap-on prices are amazing lol.. Right now I'm after a good socket set. saw a 64 piece sidchrome set on ebay for $200 with free shipping which I thought was a good price, for what you get. So basically what have you used that has stood the test of time and you'd recommend? Also while I'm here, what socket/bit do I need to get to the last spark plug all the way in the back? Cheers Mike.

I have a B&M tranny cooler... dunno how much better they are, but I know mine is bigger than the usual ones you get, since installing it haven't really needed to look at it, no problems so far.. Don't think you need a tranny cooler if your only doing long drives, its more to cope with the extra heat the tranny is under when pushing more power thru it. But installing one isn't a bad thing anyway. The injectors are the same I'm fairly sure. The difference is that the 2nd intake is way cheaper. The full air box systems usually require the battery to be relocated to the other side of the engine bay which again adds to the cost. You could get a BPR intake which sits in the factory position but is an air box with a pod, and I have heard it works really well. It too is fairly expensive but its an easier option. Performance wise, if you have a shorter intake, turbo spools up quicker, making power earlier. I'd just get it for the sound they make, so the air box wins..

LOL OMG what a pisser....

farken hell that's a launch and a half.... who said these cars were heavy, nearly took off lol

My insurer says the market value for my BA is 13K, its amazing how little they are worth these days ey...

Full car pics mate, can't really tell what rims they are apart from that they stick out a bit...

With stupid.

Either way mate your gonna have to take it somewhere, get someone who knows what they are doing to look over it.. Short of that theres not much you can do but as said above, get a torch out and look for something wrong.. Have a look on the ground, if theres any oil still dripping, trace it up and see where its coming from..

If your 10psi tune reads 12 and your 12.5 tune reads 14.5, obviously theres a 2psi difference.. Check all the boost gauge wiring etc.. and if nothing wrong with that then chuck it on a dyno and see what that says.. Bin the gauge if its the cause, or ask the tuner wtf?

+1 for Hightek brakes in Moorabbin, good prices..