mookstix

Na it's swamp season here lol, everything's flooded. That's what I get for getting a great big bloody white ute I guess haha.

I'll tell you what sux mate, big s**t streaks up the side of a bright white ute lol

Great lol, Ford NZ have nothing, off to the wreckers it is.

Hey guys just a quick one, I can't find any BA/BF flaps or guards for my ute here in NZ but I can find FG ones, does anyone know what the fitment is like on the BA body?

What year Typhoon? There are a couple of early one's on trademe for 22-26k, not a bad price for here but you can get a later FG for 35k+. All depends on what you want out of it other than power. Power's easy, you could get an '06+ engine, build it then drop it in the ute, or just swap out for the Typhoon engine on trademe for 13k. Still though it's a Ute, not a sedan, so no fancy IRS out the back and only 2 seats etc. Is it auto? Cos if it is then it's the 4 speed BTR and most people I've heard prefer the later ZF 6 speed box. If you want that Zf then you've pretty much gotta get a car with one, swapping them out is a nightmare supposedly. Or if you want a manual then that's irrelevant. I think it's more a question of do you want an early/late Ute, or an early/late Sedan, do you want leather, fancy ICC, more/less seats etc. Then the power question is easy. Import guys don't have to worry about that question, no Evo utes, no GTR sedans lol and you usually chuck the interiors, slap on aftermarket bodykits, fully rebuild internals etc. so you're starting base isn't as important.

I'll be starting a kiwi BA XR6T Ute build blog soon man. I recently picked up the first decent XR6T Ute that came up in months, '03 BA. Kiwis hold on to their XR6T's like they're worth gold and drive the s**t outta them forever. If you want an XR8 Ute there are quite a few but they've all done 300k+ kms, they're all used as solid workhorses. XR6T's you just can't find. You can find a good condition BF XR6T Sedan for less than 10k, but a Ute? No way, IF you find one it'll be over 12k and 200k+ kms. And an FG Ute? I think I've only ever seen one, at 40k. So yeah, skinny rods, 4 speed auto, but unless I import than that's all she wrote. Anyways I'll be upgrading slowly and doing most of it myself, keep an eye out for it. I'm welly based and there aren't too many people around anymore so any major work I'll get done up in vegas by my brother who runs a speed shop up there building drag cars etc. Otherwise it's running daily and chucking parts in as I can afford the $/time.

Na no way. It's my work hack/daily and I need the clearance. It's got superlows in the front I think and standard out back, the stance is pretty nice but I'm thinking about raising the front back up. I gotta deal with gravel, off road stuff, horrific driveways etc, I need some 18's with some bigger meat to handle it, driving down a rocky farm road on 35 profiles is too butt clenching for me lol.

Champion lol, now you can close this thread!

Doesn't seem to work, maybe it's because I'm a new member? Just flashes red when I enter the url, from any of the sites I've tried to use, google images, facebook, imgur etc. No biggie, here's a direct link lol. that's a 19" though it still looks small in that wheel well the dish is a handwidth. https://imgur.com/a/xWeJ5rh

I just picked up an XR6T ute a few months ago and have found the same 'issue'. Because the bloody thing has so much torque without a boost gauge it feels like you're pulling decent boost from 2000 RPM, but no, you're not lol. If you floor it you get full boost around maybe 3600, but by then you're 50m up the road and already flying then bam! you get full power. It's taking abit to get used to, I've owned a few turbos before, japanese turbos, but this thing is way, way different. It feels more like a torquey V8 that has a VTec kick at 4000 RPM than an Evo or GTR style turbo. All that torque down low is super deceiving, you don't get that traditional lag build which you can then learn to drive around, it just pulls hard then all of a sudden pulls really bloody hard lol.

My BA ute's running 235's on 19" x 8.5's front and rear. It's been lowered and with the 235's up front can only run a 35 profile, the rears are running 40. I bought the ute as is so can't tell you much about the specifics but the fitment seems fine in back though there is definitely rubbing on the inner edge of the tyres that ISN'T from the road/camber in the front, looks like it's rubbing on the suspension under full lock. I was thinking of trying out some spacers to move the tyres away but tbh I don't want to be running around on a 35 profile anyway, so I'm looking for some 18"s so I can get a bigger tyre under it. I can't seem to add pics but these are what's on there - https://soulgarage.co.nz/products/bgw-rampage and on the 19"s the dish is absolutely huge.

You could try recoding the key lock? Obtain a remote (can be a second hand one – they can all be reprogrammed, or you can buy a new one for about $90 from Ford). Close the doors. Turn the ignition key to the accesories position. Within 5 seconds of turning the key, hit the rear demister button (center console) three times in succession. The door locks will cycle once to indicate the special mode has been entered. Press any button on the remote you wish to program. The doors will cycle to indicate a new remote has been programmed. Continue steps 6 and 7 for all remotes (including existing ones) you intend to use on the vehicle. When you’ve programmed all the remotes, turn the ignition key off. The doors should cycle again to indicate the programming session has been completed.

Yeah sounds like the best idea, the garage I'm getting the tune done at says they can do a dyno run mid Jan to check before a full tune but to make sure I got a boost gauge first. Also gonna pick up an 02 and put it in today, I found yesterday that the bracket was actually broken and it was hanging down by the steering column, cheap and easy enough so why not replace it and see. Cheers fullas.

Hey guys, brought an '03 XR6T ute recently and it's suddenly become a crazy gas guzzler. I can't give too much info on the car, it's had some work but I have no real idea about it's history so I want to get a proper tune. It's lowered etc. but the only performance mods I can see are a full 3 inch exhaust and a new turbo. It's an AR.50 but the compressor wheel looks way, way bigger than stock, solenoid looks stock but not sure about the wastegate. I've had it for about 3 months and have been using it daily and it's been great, but not perfect, doesn't feel like it's making stock power. Waiting on a hard turbo pipe kit as an Xmas present to myself, then the exhaust, new resonator I'm thinking, then a proper tune as it feels mechanically fine. As I said though it's had a huge spike in L/100km that I can't seem to quantify. It feels the same, sounds the same, but it's gone from a steady 12L/100km, which is not great hence wanting a tune, to an amazing 20+L/100km. This is backed up by on road consumption. Like I said, no change, no smell of gas, no leaks. Still makes it to redline easy, still pulls ok, all vacuum pipes present and accounted for etc. I can't seem to figure it out. Also it's factory interior is gaugeless so I'm not sure of any boost numbers yet. Yes I need some gauges and yes they're on order, just need to recover from the initial cost of the car before I can drop anymore $ on it. My question is are there any obvious reasons for this that I should look at rectifying BEFORE the tune, or is it most likely tune related and I should just deal with it till I can get that done? I'd rather get everything I can sorted mechanically before the tune, not keen on having to go back for a retune for something like an 02 sensor etc.