Wyatt

Cheers Arron. Normal is great news.

Been contemplating doing the centre bearing replace myself (partially torn and sagged about 5mm) on my FGT ute and doing a bit of research about some of the driveline bits down there that may also need attention and put the job beyond my comfort level. No noises or clunking that I have noticed as yet and I do listen with window down and beats off often. I have a question for the brain trust here, the following vid shows the total play in the driveline with car in neutral, The cv near the centre bearing has very little play and unsure about the back one, but at the diff end there seems to be at least 80% of the movement you can see in the front. Thoughts anyone? Shaft_play.mp4

Cheers chaps for the replies. Specific information is gold, especially when you're new to this stuff. Driver side hub to guard is around 350mm and p/s is 340, never noticed the difference until now, bump stops look to be close to 50mm from axle, has around half a tank atm, so p/s has sagged more it seems. Vehicle sits about 25mm higher at back over front. Another job for the list, after driveshaft centre bearing replace and zf fluid flush/cooler delete and possibly radiator upgrade.

Was sniffing around under the car and noticed the ssl kings springs looking a bit, errr, weird. Read somewhere during searches, ssl kings can ruin stock shocks, no idea if shocks are standard or not. Doesn't make any annoying noises. Is this something that will need attention soon or good to go?

Nice 1 @bjc

Thanks again @bjc for the additional info. I'll have to do some in site searches. There is so much great info here. I imagine your car with such limited release/klms is a real collectors item. Time just seems to roll on faster and faster and nothing demonstrates that like kids growing up. Recently after a big night at a distant 60th, had one of my daughters drive me home 120 odd k's in the "coupe" and she loved it. She was thinking about getting a Toyota 86, but now she's been T'd I'm not so sure.

Quick google search reveals, you've got 1 of only 229 F6X's built. U Learn something everyday @bjc. While we're getting way off topic, are you still using water/meth injection or was that a passing fad?

Also keen to see some graphs for your rocketship @Nick Captain Slow. Particularly interested about how you've got the torque level so high on all of your various mods/tunes. You must have plenty of boost and timing thrown in early into your TT.

Cheers @bjc, Thanks for the heads up with your valuable experience re tuning options in FNQ. I do have a place to stay in Townsville and some hols next year, so will do some research on your suggestions. This newb appreciates words of wisdom from more experienced enthusiasts and that's a nice piece of open road between Cairns and Townsville. Rob

Was in drive, haven't really explored performance mode. Don't think it would make any difference in this one. Shift points/shift speed are a good tip to be explored in next tune. Cheers @BeerTurbo.

Hmm, The ZF usually holds same gear for a few seconds after backing off and then changes up, but moreso in higher gears. I think it changed up as soon as I was off the gas on this occasion. That would suck if it was the the trans spinning. There was no stepout like if often does, but it was a dual lane dead flat road. I've noticed only a hand full of times that it flares slightly when cold on low load, I do warm things up before being spirited. I do drive heavy vehicles with Allison boxes and they will do that sometimes when cold. ZF service if def on the cards very soon. Last 10000Klms of cars life, no doubt, would have been hectic. Have been procrastinating about trans coolers and whether to go GW or LG6, but that's for a more relevant thread, I guess. Just gotta do it.

Yeah well that's the thing, problem with common sense is that it is not that common. The car mostly can't spin the tyres much after said retune. The road was bone dry and I don't do skids as such. Maybe if I think about the consequences a bit more, I'll exercise a bit of revout interruptus via the right foot. I wonder if I would go built? Thanks K31th

While not exactly on topic, I've also become concerned with the high rpm my stock bottom end FG gets to on occasions. I monitored a pull today in 1st (auto) which spun the treads at about 5000 rpm up to what is a potentially a dangerous level. It seems the limiter has been disabled. Engine was at operating temp. The Atomic oil pump gears could be earning their keep. Engine was off when screenshot was taken, so not sure about the number 154, but I did eyeball the needle getting to around 6500. So something tells me I betta get get this mess sorted, as there was no barf from the IWG or nasty cut or anything holding it back. In reality, knowing previous owner was a HP junkie. He prolly wanted everything he could get from the T, before he got rid of it. The thing has been recently retuned (less timing/more fuel) and for a few days the IWG was making things a bit boring, but all that seems to have gone by the wayside. I don't really understand anything about what is going on apart that it sounds and feels great and it gunna end in tears. Thoughts? apart from check TS IWG spring/tensioning and 6200rpm limit and/or learn to drive normallyish.

Firstly watched a few youtube vids. Bought cheap ELM327 reader on Ebay, downloaded and opened torque app on phone, turned on wifi to pair etc etc. Will upgrade to Torque pro soon to access more info such as trans temp.

My bad. Thanks for the heads up @El Andrew I did look at the conversion a while ago, but clearly that info went through to the keeper. My simple error could be a good thing that car may not be over boosting, I'm certain it is way over 10 PSI though. Car was previously up to 21 PSI on dyno and recently retuned to 17, so hence my apprehension.

A snapshot from a recent outing. Looks like the Turbosmart IWG actuator is misbehaving and allowing boost to exceed commanded levels of a recent tune. A common thing it seems from comments made previously by @JETURBO. Have NFI what spring is in there, maybe a 8-9lb spring would help? or back to a Garrett actuator? GT3576/billet wheel has had flapper mod done, apparently. Went out for a spin today and max boost was 18.8 (U98). AIT's were stable around 38-41C despite being a pretty warm day, so the CAI & Plaz 800 is doing it's job. Question is, are these obd2 readings accurate as accel reading seems a bit odd. Motor gets heat soaked after 6-8 pulls as standard 91C thermostat and high speed fans come on at over 100C. Prolly should go the 82C stat with the lower thermo fan activation setting in the tune for the tropics as per @BJC, although there was a bit of past debate, as I recall, over the value of doing this. I hope this would be a quick and inexpensive job for the tuna to do? No idea what the STFT1 reading means except near 0 is good at idle.

Met a bloke one day who had tourette syndome, he was quiet, unlike ol mate but I thought his head was gunna fall off. Can't be much fun. On the subject of funnies, took this shot today.

With most good cheap number plate combos already taken, the new PPQ caption option opens up a whole new world of customized plates for Qlders. For $605 you could really attract some unneeded attention with this 1.

So following up on last post, revisit to tuner to lower boost to a sustainable level (Apparently previous high boost was commanded) add a bit of fuel and some timing was pulled as well, so dropped a few nm's and a bit more laggy than before but got to keep the old school number, so happy with result. No fault codes showing. Got idle sorted when hot, doesn't stall anymore. Oil pump gears - Tick, although now realising was probably not required for auto Safe Tune - Internal wastegate seems to work now - Tick Next job - ZF full fluid flush and heat exchange upgrade to keep trans cooler in tropics and remove milkshake issue. (although I did notice it heats up the tranny super quick as is, when I was grovelling around down there) Still tossing up between liquid gold 6 and GW product and whether to have upfront @JETURBO style or smaller unit with fan between the original dodge one is and the chassis rail. As there is no E85 in FNQ, then no chance to need same space for surge tank. Once again apologies for chithouse image. Need to get another phone/brain.

I'm in a low lying area in FNQ and the threat of inundation is real during wet season, so all important bits upfront will be +400mm higher than what they otherwise would be. Just gotta make sure I don't get lazy when big rain is forecast.

Chose this thread as have very similar setup to OP, although no battery relocate. After spinning the wheels a bit and seeing some high RPM, decided on fitting a new H/D oil pump gear assembly and while in the shop, they put it on the dyno for a quick check over. Due to my ignorance, I was a bit surprised to see 20+psi of boost on the chart. Oil on paper is from originals pump gears I took with me. Car ran a bit rough apparently so plug gaps were checked, so plan is for retune. PSI down a bit, bit more fuel so AFR down a touch and bit more timing as is currently around 5 degrees advance, I think, to extend life of motor. So having NFI, I have a question about the original dyno and current one. HP and torque is similar, but the rpm/power/torque figures seem to have changed somewhat. Origin graph shows spool and max torque about 1000 rpm lower. Any thoughts on any of the above would be gratefully received.

Built some ramps over the past week using scrap scrounged from various sources. Excuse the dodgy paint job. Nice to get under and take a look and get familiar with whats down there. Also checked for any leaks after Atomic oil pump gears fitted.

That's Gold, can't wait to pass it on.

Finnas said Funny you should ask, cause the maiden run in car with previous owner driving, who clearly wanted to impress, smashed it up to 140+ in this tiny street with a small car puttering on up ahead before standing on the brakes, abs kicked in and at first wasn't sure if we were skipping on road, but it pulled up amazingly quickly, while I didn't make a noise, I was no doubt preparing to scream and/or push 1 out. Afterwards he lamented he didn't have time to take me for a spin in 1 of his other cars, I don't think I would've got in. Here it is on dyno. SPOILER ALERT its not a Ford https://www.facebook.com/WesternSuburbsMechanical/videos/vb.104302189716572/358076675054716/?type=2&theater

This is a quick easy and totally tasty recipe. Done in 30 mins from scratch. Maybe not for those who can't handle just a little heat. Start Frying 1 onion coarsely chopped in coconut or olive oil, add half a jar of this gloop, fry for a few minutes, add 500g of chopped chicken thighs, mix around a bit and then add 1 can of coconut milk (don't use coco cream - rank) bring to simmer. Add half a chopped red capsicum and/or a 30 green beans and/or zucchini and/or cauliflower or whatever. Add teaspoon of sugar and don't forget to put rice on first cause you'll be waiting 4 it. For the Keto version, grate half a cauliflower, not fingers, fry that for 10 minutes on high heat in coco or olive oil use instead of rice and forget sugar. Keto is low carb, so no sugar, no grains including rice, bread, limited fruit, so why don't you just jump off a bridge Huh? well if you could handle bacon & eggs every day for breaky, all the salads with ceasar dressings, all meats/fish you could ever want to eat, not feel hungry and feel good about giving that fatty liver a break, and lose rear end KG's not KW's without doing anything else? Not preaching, just sayin