Tom Tucker

that's the one man!

Yeah, you have to cut it and install the hardine to AN adapter. It was easy to cut with a little pipe cutting tool. Nice and neat

Your water feed is probably at the front, so easy to access. Mine was routed around the back when the engine was out. The hardline underneath the intake manifold wasn't too bad, I just hope the AN to pipe adaptor doesn't leak...

Ok, halfway through, but this should give an indication of what it looks like. I've retained the factory coolant overflow and just need to connect up the turbo water line. Easier said than done because mine's routed around the back of the motor. Bit of a learning process for me. I've also done full AN4 lines for boost control, but the AN10 lines for the coolant pipe under the intake manifold were a bit of a pain to make... the olive just didn't want to seat, and I frayed the braided line a bit trying to get it perfect. Anyway, looks tidier.

Yeah I've got the billet lower and upper thermostat housings to convert it all, including the hardline AN10 adapter. Good luck with the screamer man

Annoying man, but good pick up. Might be worth trying the nord lock washers. I need to get to work on my car. I'm half way through tidying up various lines. Coverting boost control silicone lines to braided AN lines, and I'm tidying up water lines. I hate the factory turbo waterline, so converting that to braided AN all the way. Not sure if I'm going to remove the header tank or not...

I've run both Dex 3 and the Penrite Pro gear oil (different cars, same TR6060 box) and haven't noticed any real difference in shift quality

I think I posted pics of mine. In front of passenger side strut tower. Same reason as you

It's not a great price, but its not terrible. Just remember you'll have to change all bushes at a minimum. Few hundred in that

Probably not man. I think your biggest struggle will be reliability for drifting. Big iron block holds lots of heat, long stroke provides torque, but doesn't really like bouncing off limiter. I think the barra is a great motor, but more so for drag or cruising. Not so much circuit work or drifting. Unless you really go to town on cooling and limit boost significantly. Just my opinion

Have you considered something like this: https://golebysparts.au/products/atomic-performance-products-my2021-atomic-streetorquer-475-long-engine

$10k is 2/3 of a basic engine build these days hey

You've pushed the spool rods to some impressive numbers!

That Pulsar turbo is a good option if you replace the stock low mount.

I think most of the piston/rod combos are pretty decent. Are you building it yourself?

Interesting perspective. I've got JE pistons. Zero piston slap or blow-by. I know that's more a function of sizing and ring clearances, but they're not a high silicone content, so expansion isn't such an issue. And then I have Howard's rods. My engine builder is a fan, so went with his recommendation. The combo handles my high cylinder pressure so far, and my build goals were similar. Reasonable price, reliable and capable

Nice one. And as far as engine goes, I reckon Nitto rods and JE pistons are the best combo for quality to cost ratio. The cosworth pistons are the best, but pretty expensive. Pure cost to decent quality the spool CP combo is proven.

Nice, sounds like you are on the right track. Go Ultrix. Xforce is a decent option, that's what I have. Word of warning though... don't know if there are many places that can fit the 4" Exhaust over the rear subframe without lowering it. That means you may as well pull that out at the same time to do the IMS diff hat and bushes as a minimum. I'd add trutrack too.

Hey mate, you'll need to build the motor. Agree with Puff. Keep the stock manifold and turbo. Upgrade the intercooler to something that will support 1000hp to future proof, don't cheap out - go plazmaman minimum. Upgrade your exhaust to full 4" turbo back, similarly so it never needs to be revisted. Keep standard fuel system upgrade, maybe add GFB fuel reg. Go flex fuel and push the stock turbo to the limit, which should be low 400kws. This is seriously fast for a street car. You'll then have to look at tailshaft and rear end. IMS diff hat is essential eventually. And brakes and suspension! It all adds up! You'll save huge money keeping stock turbo and fuel system. Plus the stock turbo, manifold and heat shields really helps under bonnet temps and reliability.

Yeah, could be right man - all I'd point to is the number of 4x4s with lift kits out there that never have legal issues. I think you'd have to be unlucky to be defected just for suspension, unless it's ride height related 🙂

Hey mate, Coilovers aren't illegal if ride height is above 100mm at lowest point. Front mount intercooler is just an upgrade from factory front mount, so not illegal. Forward facing plenum isn't illegal, but if you have a non covered pod filter, they can defect you for that. You might get away with a 200cpi cat, but your statement suggests you don't have one at all. 400cpi is a better bet. Not knowing what other modifications your car has, I can't speculate on other items you may be defected for, but to take a stab, you'd want to make sure your tyres have tread, your lights all work, and the cops didn't impound your car for doing burnouts. These are all factors not likely to work in your favour.

Sounds positive man. Good effort, especially in defiance of the wife haha

Boooo!

Hey mate, it's like anything. If the car has been looked after, serviced etc, and if you do it properly with quality parts and expertise, it should be absolutely fine. Lots of options in Melb. I can't give any recommendations- I've just seen Maxx Performance, who have Lots of barra experience. Doesn't mean they're good though

To fix, or...?