Tom Tucker

I'll be curious to see what it makes, but to be honest, I'm far more concerned with how it drives, how it comes on, and how reliable it is. So always happy to throw it on the roller haha

Ok, since it's so quiet on here, I thought I'd give a bit of an update on what's happening. I sent the car away last year to have a Nexus R5 installed, and a new motorsport loom done up. The plan was to get that up and running on the existing setup, with a bit of a check over to ensure everything is healthy. Turns out things weren't as I'd hoped, so I've ended up with a new engine build, including a Nitto billet crank. The G35-900 had cooked bearings and a bent shaft, so I'm actually throwing a G35-1050 in there because I'm curious whether there will be much of a spool difference. And it maintains current pipework. I'd like to try the new G35-990 (G series 2), but Garrett haven't released it yet. While the engine was out, the engine bay was fully prepped and repainted. It's not showcar spec, but it's close, especially with the new wiring loom. Getting a bunch of heat shielding done so nothing melts. I'll of course get pics when it's all done. I'd say it'll be tuned in the next 4 weeks. The only thing limiting the turbo will be back pressure and the 1650cc injectors.

Good call on working through. This time of year is the worst to take off. Few things open, and thousands of other people competing for space at beaches, camp sites etc

Back at work mate. Hopefully my car rebuild is finished before the middle of 25!

Morning mate, happy Monday

I would have thought the 1.15 would be lazy. Very safe choice for 400kw, but no way it'll be snappy

Something like this https://www.maxxperformance.com.au/kpm-intank-unit

No issues with mine, but I think there are probably some better in tank options these days. If I were doing a fuel system again I'd look at newer technology

Good tips above. Lots of workshops around Geelong that should have ford experience. Now that you know what needs to be done, and the cost of the replacement part, I'd ring around for quotes. I'd help, but also too far away, sorry. If you haven't done this sort of thing before, it will probably take a whole weekend, and you might run into problems with leaks (oil, water, exhaust, air).

Hey man, just replace it with this: https://www.pulsarturbo.com.au/collections/ford-xr6/products/pulsar-gtx3576r-new-gen-drop-in-chra-for-ford-falcon-fg-gt3576r-upgrade $675. Easy to unbolt turbo and replace. A GOOD mechanic should charge no more than 2 hrs labour, so you could get it done for $1000 all up. But finding a good mechanic is tough. Where abouts are you located? Someone might have a recommendation, or might give you a hand

Probably easier and safer to just get longer studs. Even better, new wheel bearings, and just do the studs before you install. 5mm spacers are pretty cheap

Maybe water/meth injection had a role to play, since it can't be compressed? Who knows

Popping and missing sounds more like cam sensors or crank angle sensor to me. The wiring on these sensors is prone to failure over time. They should throw a code though. Could also be coils.

Sorry to hear. So much work has gone into your build, but it's great you're sharing your experience, both good and bad. I'm amazed the driveline seems to take all the punishment

Happy Monday mate. Good on you for keeping it going.

Lots of work has gone into this mate, congrats on the results. Much respect for the fact you do everything yourself

You won't find any reputable tuners anywhere that will push a BA and BTR combo hard. A 9psi spring shouldn't matter. You have factory boost control in the PCM. Maybe it opens at 9psi and creeps to 12? Only you'd know, assuming you have the dyno printout. Try and find out why it's not driving right man. We've all been there. It takes time to tune things right, and many tuners can't be bothered. Also heaps of variables that can make it difficult for tuners.

Hey mate, dyno numbers vary so much that they're not a reliable measure between your car and others. It is a tuning tool. 340hp out of a BA with BTR probably isn't far off what can be reasonably expected. It sounds like it's not driving quite right though, which is more concerning. Very difficult to get refunds in this sort of game. I'd ask the tuner to get it on the dyno again to see what can be done. If it's still no good, you should cut your losses and go elsewhere. But you could have a bunch of issues making things not right. Anything from ignition system, to cam sensors, to transmission issues.

Nah, but what went from a Nexus upgrade and general check over has kinda escalated. Sticking with same turbo and everything else, but engine is getting a full Nitto rotating assembly.

I just come on here to learn and share friendly info with people @k31th. I don't have time for people who don't want to be nice

It's funny @Puffwagon. I remember a time on this forum when you were still learning these cars. You asked lots of questions, had some humility and seemed like a nice kind of dude. Shame things have changed.

Yeah that's pretty impressive. Looks like a great option for closing up clearances if you have to clean up bores beyond a light hone. I imagine it's pretty hard to apply perfectly evenly though, and measure thickness?

Does the coating reduce your piston to bore clearances at all? I imagine it would be negligible

Hey mate, I've got superpro. It can get expensive if you replace your arms with the superpro items. Worth it if you're doing it yourself. Just watch out using sparesbox.

What 5 bar did you go with? I think I ended up getting an omni 4 bar on mine, which was a revelation after the Bosch one that had no low end resolution