Jonno

That's a BA pic

The manual says to coat the threads of the O2 Sensor with a Nickel Anti- Seize compound (Loctite 767 or similar), but says nothing about the spark plug threads. So do I coat the spark plug threads or not?

Yep, got the arrow, but I haven't removed the heat shield before. Is the sensor actually on the exhaust manifold?

I need some help changing the oxygen sensor on my 2006 BF XR6T. Please take a look at the attached image and let me know where the sensor is and how I get to it. John

I checked the manual that came with the car and it specifiesa gap of 0.9 mm. So for the moment what gap do I set, 0.8, 0.9, or 1.1mm?

So if I am leaving it standard I should gap the plugs at 1.1mm?

What is the best brand and version of plugs that I should buy (Please be specific)? And they should be gapped to .8mm? What does Ford recommend, and if it is other than .8mm what benefit will changing to this figure bring? Sorry for being pedantic, but I haven't worked on any car for ages. However being constantly screwed over by expensive mechanics who claim greatness but offer incompetence and mediocrity, has forced me back on the tools. By the way, does anyone know where I can get a BF workshop manual that includes the XR6T? There is BA version on CD on ebay for $7 but would prefer the BF if it exists.

Engine - Castrol Edge 0W40

So should I get a tune?

Is there some way I can read, interpret and manipulate the diagnostic codes? Is there a laptop interface and software that I can buy?

As determined in a post below I am having coil problems with my BFII XR6T. I am away on holidays in the Snowys and I wonder if I need to waste a day with the local ford dealer swapping out the coils or whether the car will be safe to drive back to Sydney? During a misfire today the check engine light came on, and now stays on while driving. I am hoping that the answer will be - its fine to drive back to Sydney. If it is fine to drive does anyone have a procedure / extract from the workshop manual, for changing the coils? Thanks John

So coils it is then. I will do my plugs at the same time. Any suggestions for the best plugs to use? Last time I changes a plug I set the gap? Do I still need to do that or are they all pre-gapped these days? I'm guessing that the ecu will automatically take care of the coil parameters such as I will not need to worry about dwell time?

How many coils are on the XR6T Who has them for $250? Can I replace them myself?

As in ignition coils? Why would this only happen uphill? Are these costly to replace?

My standard BFII XR6T is having problems when accelerating uphill. Anything above a very slow acceleration is halted by a stutter that feels like I have hit a rev limiter (even though I am nowhere near the redline) which lasts about 5 seconds during which time the engine looses all power. Not great for overtaking. I am currently on holidays with the family in the snowy mountains, and this problem is not only bloody annoying but is also spoiling my enjoyment of some great and largely empty roads. As I said it only happens when accelerating uphill. Anything over a couple of degrees of slope seems enough to cause the problem. Last service from my high priced (so called) mechanics was is December. Fuel pump? Blocked fuel filter? Methinks something mechanical due the uphill bit. The tank is 3/4 full. Does anyone have any ideas?

I need to find a new mechanic to service and perform general mechanical work on my BFII XR6 Turbo. I live in Lewisham in the inner west of Sydney. Any suggestions? John.

Touch wood the issue seems to be solved. I fitted: Superpro front lower control arm bushes, Superpro front sway bar bushes, new front hubs, DBA T3 4000 disks and Ferrodo DS Performance pads. Along the way I found a great suspension workshop (City Suspension at Penrith – used to be Wholesale suspension), a great brake supplier (Race Brakes) and realised I will not return to my mechanic of the last four years. Thanks to everyone for their help.

Which front lower control arm bushes should I fit to my 2006 BF II XR6T? Rubber (aftermarket, genuine), Nolathane, or something else? I am replacing them following advice from another thread on trying to cure my long standing brake shudder.

Thanks all for your advice. I'll go for the lower control arm bushes, and another set of DBA4000s.

Where should I start?

New front DBA 4000 rotors and Bendix pads, together with new rear disks and pads have not fixed my brake shudder problem. The shudder returns every 4,000 to 5,000 kms. Each time it does I have the front disks machined on the car. I live in the inner west of Sydney, and am hoping that someone can recommend a brake expert who can fix this problem once and for all. Thanks for your help. John.

My mechanic swore black and blue that the DBA 4000 front rotors and Bendix pads would fix the brake shudder problems I have had since the car was about two years old. I also had new rear disks and pads fitted at the same time. This worked beautifully for about 4,000 kms, then the shudder returned and has done every 4,000 to 5,000 kms. Each time on car machining of the front disks has been required as a temporary fix. Now the shudder is back and the disks cannot be machined again. From reading on here I understand that the real problem could be: warped or dirty hub flanges, and/or dodgy lower control arm bushes, and/or a cactus break booster, and/or sticking break callipers (have I left anything out????). I live in the Inner West of Sydney, and am hoping that someone can recommend a brake guru who can fix this problem once and for all. My wife mainly drives the car and her braking can best be described as gentle.I always have the wheels torqued to 115 Nm. The car has done around 95,000 kms. Thanks for your help. John.

Thanks for your advice. Went to Liverpool Exhausts today and had a Euro 3 cat fitted for $450. Very happy with the resuts. John

I have an unmodified 2006 BFII XR6T. The cat is blown and I am looking for a replacement. I have been quoted $1,149 for a genuine cat and mid muffler as a single unit. Sometime down the track I will probably get a custom exhaust/injectors/tune, but for now I want to keep things standard. Can anyone recommend an aftermarket cat with the same specs as the original? Also is there a good exhaust shop in Sydney's Inner West? Thanks John.

I just had a quote of $600 to replace the bolt. Surely there must be a better way??????????? Jonno