biddie_fiddler
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Everything posted by biddie_fiddler
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I know how I've stripped it, put stress on the bolt with the turbo water feed line (uses that bolt as support). Should have done up the line to the timing cover first then tightened it on the turbo. In any case, I'm gonna source some longer hex bolts like you've mentioned. I think a 130mm would work for the right one, and a 140mm for the left. I measured the factory ones length to be 120mm, so long as its longer than that I should be sweet 😋 Thanks for your input @Rob70!! Legend
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Stay strong Puff haha Just noticing the "member for" stat listed under each user... Wild to see some long term users on the forum here, as in over 7 years! Wonder who the longest running member is 🤔
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@Rob70that sucks hahah Do you remember the size you got? Is it M8x1.25mm?
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Helicoil is the best solution for this yea. It'd be a stronger thread once done. I am not keen on removing the timing cover though. I'd need more tools I don't have, like a balancer pulley. I've heard that the pulley bolt is a massive *beep* to remove with auto cars too. I know that if I remove all stuff from the front of the motor, I'd end up buying more sh*t like timing chains, better balancers, etc. I cannot do this now 🤣 Its just too much work to fix a single thread, and there is plenty thread left over, hence the band-aid solution of finding a longer bolt 😋
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Yea it is an option.... Could make it an aftermarket part and resell for big bux All seriousness though, if it is M8x1.25, there is a bolt option from the UK, just a cheap £18 per bolt... Ends up being $32ish AUD without shipping!
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Have had a bit of a google around, but can't really find much of a solution... Doesn't help that I don't know what size the bolt is 🤣 I'm guessing M8x1.25 because that appears to be a common size around this motor I did find some M8 studs that are 130mm long, the factory bolt is about 120mm, so those might work... But not sure how I feel about using studs
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Can always get a mate to drop off for you? I did this with my brother when he was isolating
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Yet another question, been putting the car back together, put the water feed line on the turbo and it has that support point on the top left timing cover bolt.... This bolt doesn't seem to be grabbing very well and I'm scared it's stripped, or close to it. Putting the bolt to the side to line it up there seems like there absolutely fk all thread actually grabbing. Wonder if the thickness of the support bracket for the coolant line was not considered when they chose the bolt size... In any case, I'm wondering if anyone knows the thread size and pitch of these top bolts? Might look into getting some slightly longer versions. The top left hole has threads all the way through so there's plenty thread there for a longer bolt to grab. For reference, it's the bolts that have the torx heads, not sure if all the timing cover bolts have torx heads too though... 🤣 Cheers all
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Question about gaskets, why are there usually no gaskets for the exhaust manifold and turbo? I bought some and have fitted them to the rig because my belief is having a gasket is better than no gasket.... I have no justification for this though 🤣 What's everyone's thoughts on them? Do you use one? Do you not? Why? Why not? Curious to know Also, I'd much rather have a barometer than a clock on the wall tbh, plenty sh*t around the house to tell me the time already
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I'm waiting for the loctite to settle before I go reefing on the things.. that's how I stripped it in the first place 🤣🤣🤣
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It was a MASSIVE c*nt to get back in. When I removed the baby turbo, I took the manifold and turbo off together. So logically did the same this time - turbo onto manifold then combo into the car. Trouble was the studs are just a hair too long and the combo wouldn't fit. Ended up having to remove some studs to get it to fit in. Was a pain but got there in the end Not keen to have to tighten it all again when the bolts eventually come loose... I don't wanna go through all this crap again hahahah
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What a hectic week its been! Finally picked up a turbo this week! Got a pulsar 3582 with a screamer kit. The one my brother welded was just slightly off at was colliding stuff. No drama though, he's going to fix it up! This turbo opportunity came about fast, and made sense to grab it with the screamer kit now, we'll sell the housing once he's back from site and back to regular working schedules so he can weld it up again. Really nice bit of kit! Here's some shots from the day I picked it up, left was taken in the morning, right was taken at night after I'd test fitted it into the car Fast forward to this arvo, turbo is in! Bolted up nice and tight to the manifold but I will probably check the bolts again after its done a heat cycle. Coolant drain and turbo drain hooked up (mostly). Ordered the last few things I need to finish it up from sparesbox, delivery will take a while sadly. Got a bunch of fittings to sort out the boost line to the wg, a new coolant tank, and a drive belt. I do need a silicone elbow for the intake though, and one that goes from the turbo to the IC pipe. I'm sure there was one from the intune kit so it may be at my parents somewhere. Getting close to starting it up again and I'm so keen! Got a while to go to before it goes to MT for the rest of the stuff though, need to save money for that 🤣
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Cheers @JETURBO picked up a pulsar 3582 with screamer kit from Rob today. Only took 6 stops to find a 1/8th npt tap. Anyway, removed front housing and drilled and tapped a hole. Will update my thread with more details though
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Quick question for everyone! Need to get a tap, is the barb on factory turbos 1/8 npt? I'm assuming so as that's very common
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You need to read into it more because it's not going to work with like 99% of the Falcons out there. I'll say it again. You NEED a sync 3 compatible factory ICC that already has carplay to be able to use this. It says that on the page you've linked: "Make sure you have the original factory car stereo with a built-in CarPlay function If you’re unsure if your car has built-in CarPlay, please contact the vehicle manufacturer or contact us directly for further inquiries." At the very top of the page too: Supported Ford Models AI CarPlay Box works on Ford models between 2017-2021 that came with factory Apple CarPlay function. Make sure your vehicle has wired CarPlay or contact us for further inquiry.
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Hmmm, you didn't link a particular product so I found some things that I think you're talking about? Carlinkit 3.0 Apple CarPlay Wireless Dongle These products take Existing carplay units that are wired carplay and converts it to wireless carplay. They won't add carplay to a car that doesn't have it in the first place.
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Vcm/ Ids Chinese Clones. Work With Falcons?
biddie_fiddler replied to patrol_maverick's topic in ECU Workshop
After some digging, I think I'm getting closer to finding some info on IDS and VCM 2's.... Can I send you a pm @Ralph Wiggum? I'm chasing some info on getting IDS and a VCM2. I have an obd2 USB tool that works with forscan but I believe the VCM2 is a different tool altogether? Anyway 🤣 If you're still active, I'd really love some of your wise insight you might have on this topic Some link to IDS I have found https://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/wds/diagnosticsites/vcmdvd/mcs/idssoftware.asp I've read through Ford workshop manual 413-01 Instrument Cluster, and it often mentions the IDS tool to configure cluster settings. I'm particularly interested in seeing if it is capable of recalibrating the needles of my speedo and rev dial because I needed to remove the needles to get to the dash PCB. I'm not interested in calibrating the speed itself, just ensuring the digital speed and dial speed match. -
Southern fried chicken burgers were a success 😎 Used the buns I made before, next time I'ma make the buns a little smaller. They were farking massive Its hard to see the scale of these monsters. For reference, placed next to a beer bottle, the burgers ended up at the neck of the bottle Here's me, with absolutely no fkn idea what I am doing but loving every moment of it, especially after a couple rums - which btw, if you like rum should defs give this one a try!
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Yea nah I think I'd rather learn how to do it myself, I don't want to send it over east just to get recalibrated 🤣 The fact someone has made a PC program to do it shows that's its possible to do, though
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I'd imagine it would be similar, yea. It is slightly concerning that the bloke only does ba/bf and not FGs though. There must be a reason why. I'll ask him how he did it, but I really doubt he'll tell me. He created his own PC software to calibrate it.
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Some more fancy photos of the dash at 35% brightness I can see why there is a bloke charging a lotta money to do this mod on ba/bf clusters lol I'm also guessing its way easier to recalibrate those clusters too because he has a yt video of the cluster doing a calibration
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Ahahah I got that look for the Mrs when the car broke cause I jacked up the car and went "oh the rears are bald again". Was a "but you got tyres like a month ago, wtf are you doing" look. What a way to meet though, love at first sight (of each others mad skid rigs)
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Sounds like a pretty awesome friendship Also, cool know you used to be a drifta! @Mrs Jeturbo Why "used to be"? What got you out of doing it any more? Also, now it makes sense why there are pics of a drift rig in your signature 🤣
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Ahh well there ya go Guessing he must hire the dyno or something then?
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Wait a second, is that @JETURBO's shop? 🤣
