biddie_fiddler

Buying the Turbosmart Kompact FPR, I want to get some e85 safe hose to run from the factory fuel hard lines up to the FPR. Is anyone able to tell me what size hose I need to get? Would be much appreciated For reference, I'm biting the bullet. My car has absolutely zero fuel in it so I'm upgrading the pump, adding fpr, and yeeting myself into the e85 club. I'm here for a good time not a long time #400kwapproaching My 4" exhaust arrived too And a new set of front brake rotors and pads. I regret nothing

that's a little f*cked up and sh*tty service imo but hey its here now. They probably have too high a pride to talk to your average Joe who just wants to build their own trans. I imagine it'd be different if old mate from Hughes performance got in contact

That is odd and extremely inefficient 🤣🤣 Why wouldn't they just ship it from AUS? Or are the parts made here and its assembled in the US?

...... Am I reading this right??? Its made in AUS and you had to buy it from the US?????

Yea that's what I mean lol, I think it'd be worth reducing the brightness a wee bit 🤣

Yea the more I think about it, the more I realise that the PWR heat exchanger I bought is kinda a waste of money. Would have been better off getting a proper external trans setup with a fan. Just replacing a sh*tty heat exchanger with a less sh*tty heat exchanger while spending $800

BIG UPDATE BIG WIN MUCH HAPPY Over the weekend I managed to wire up a complete indicator/reverse insert and brake insert. I also finally got the indicators wired to the main board. After a bit of time fixing my buggy af code I got the demo of the sequential indicator working!!!! Will need to play around with the timing to get the speed just right, but that's not a hard thing to do. Moving onto installing the park lights into the brake insert and wiring them up to a secondary board, and if all goes well I'll have a working startup demo of the DRL setup by this time next week 😄 Took some cool snaps too that I'll dump in here... Brake Light test Very farking bright, considering changing out the resistors to reduce the brightness cause this is a bit much lol. Might also consider just adding in a step down converter to reduce the voltage too... saves me needing to remove the resistors. The nerdy amongst you may notice the current draw, is under 300mA!!! that's like 5x lower than a bulb lol. Too bad that won't matter because the car will freak out without a load resistor to make it think there's a bulb in place. Wiring the indicators was a process! My plan is to have this be a connector, but I don't have the right crimp tool for the JST 2.0mm connector unfortunately 😞 Wiring loom getting some love My lights will be the full show, so that means they need a constant power source. Added a wire into the loom as there is a free spot in the loom connector for one, bonus! Drilled a hole through the indicator connector and put it through there, same with the waterproof boot, I punched a small hole in it and forced the wire through so that its water tight. The terminals on the bulb connectors are all roughed up and cleaned with IPA, and wires are soldered to them. I will be using a black epoxy to fill the connectors so that the wires are held and do not move around, this is a common issue with soldered joins as it will stress them and cause them to fail. Oh and one thing with the looms, the bulb connector/socket things have no O-Rings on them because they were f*cked, I have measured them and ordered a bunch to replace them

Come on to the forums and the first thing I see is this, big F in chat @Mrs Jeturbo f*ck me she's cute

I dunno man, some cats do not like getting their claws clipped. Its much easier to give them something hard to claw against. that's kept our family cats claws fine for 9+ years They are still sharp, though. But I imagine it'd be worse if she didn't do that lol EDIT: nice haul @El Andrew! I'm sure they'll be best of friends! 😄

Bored at work, used photoshop to plan some patterns I can create, like start-up animations and what not. Here's one for the park lights that I quite like. Bear in mind this is as fast and as smooth as I can get the gif, it'd be a sh*t tonne smoother when implemented I had to pair up LEDs because without it there are 35 LEDs, and I have 32 channels available With enough speed I think this can still work

Slow progress on the LED controller. Fried some of the LED driver ICs and the board wouldn't work unless it was hooked up to the programmer. Turns out I did a rookie mistake and didn't connect a pin on the microcontroller It is fixable but inconvenient. For the cost of PCBs it'd be better if I just revised the PCB and ordered more, which is what I'm going to do. I chose a very cheap MCU for this project too so I can keep the build cost down, but an issue I have come across that I didn't think would happen is that I'm running out of RAM... Hoping I have enough by the time I'm done with the code, just something I need to be weary of. Another issue I found was that I didn't account for the voltage supplied to the LED controller. I just assumed that >10V would be fine.... It is not. I fried some chips testing over 6V. I will need to supply the LEDs with 5V instead of the 12-14V from the car, I will add a 5V regulator in line for now and determine if its worth me adding this to the board. eBay sells heaps of cheap 5V converters I can use. Plan is to continue the code from here using the current design. Once the code is done with control for indicators and brakes I can see if I need to change the MCU for one with more RAM. I don't want to revise the PCB now only to find I need to change the MCU. Here's a video of it finally functioning without the programmer (the programmer was connected in the vid, but I had already confirmed it worked without it) Just testing a single output, 22 of these channels will be used for the indicator

Workshop manual 417-01 Exterior Lighting has a symptom chart for the turn signals, one of them is "turn signal are always on". It states the source is either multifunction switch or cluster. It says to do "PinPoint Test B" which a testing strategy for low beams... Bit odd but I'm guessing its to verify if the your stalk is working properly. This test will eventually lead you to 211-05 Steering Column Switches, in this document is detailed instructions on testing the stalks, and how to replace them if you need to. For your case @Jayden7676 it seems more like a cluster problem if it works with another cluster, judging by the fact it worked with a different cluster. This is odd though, and there isn't really anything on the board you can replace that would fix the issue. As someone who has taken apart the cluster, I am almost certain that the cluster is purely sending control signals to something else, like the BEM or something, to control the indicators. Something in the loop is responsible for current sensing as this is how the car checks for blown bulbs. In any case, no relays (ss or conventional) are present on the cluster PCB, and no MOSFETS (as far as I can tell) are used for switching the indicators Kept the above in for reference as I continue my research into this... The cluster takes 2 inputs (L and R) for indictors, and has 2 outputs for indicators. After reviewing the pinout in 413-01 and comparing with my image of the cluster, 4B and 8B (pinouts shown in the document) go to a beefy IC, my guess is its a 2CH MOSFET that is acting as the high side switch because it has control pins coming from the MCU. Here is a photo of the cluster if you're interested. Top left of the revs stepper motor is the (likely) MOSFET used to switch the indicators. @Danger_bear this probably applies to you too given your other thread. For you, I'd recommend following along the pinpoint test B to see if its your stalk causing the issues. Following that, it'd be the cluster causing the issue I have posted in a previous thread a google drive link to all the workshop manuals I have stored that will be of great help to you both. I think I need to put this somewhere else lol, it can be hard to find sometimes.

I've heard of previous "fully built" ZFs now having some other parts start to fail, I don't know enough about transmissions and what exactly is failing. But it makes sense. Not everything in the box is upgraded, so it stands to reason that they would also start to fail once other parts are replaced for more betterer ones. But if I was given a quote of a "completely bulletproof" zf of 20k, I'd consider just going with a th400 lol

Average price for custom tail lights is around $800AUD. So far I've spent around $400. Hoping to eventually have a solid system that I could sell as kits for people to diy, or be able to have a service where I can do it for people. Its a long term goal that I'd love to see fulfilled. I don't know how many people would actually commit to purchasing such a thing. I have had like 8 people dm me on instagram saying they're interested.... But whether they'd actually pay for it is a different story. This is a very difficult thing to do, its taken me a lot of time to learn how to take tail lights apart, and do all this design and development. I fear that people will just see the product and the price and go "that's too expensive" without truly comprehending how much time, effort, and money goes into making such a product. I suppose though, this happens with A LOT of things in life

Was a good deal! $299 from Sydney tools. Yea, came with a drill and an impact driver, and a 5Ah battery plus charger Bonus is that the drivers are both brushless - something I really wanted

Was gonna dump all this in the off topic thread, but figured I'd create a new thread instead to show y'all the progress of the tail lights I've been building. Made a lot of progress so far, but still a lot to do! Hoping to have a single tail light running in the next couple weeks to show as a proof of concept Firstly, what is it? Well, I'm glad you asked! Being a classic millennial that's into cars I've always loved the JDM scene. I've always loved the custom tail lights and head lights I see on so many JDM cars and decided I'd make some tail lights inspired by this type of design for my FG falcon. This is a good example of what I'm talking about Tail lights such as these use a whole lotta through hole LEDs assembled in a pattern that in my opinion looks awesome. Being an electronics nerd I figured this shouldn't be too hard to do. This project has definitely not been easy so far and has thrown many challenges my way. Makes me appreciate the people that do this for a living, I see now why custom tail lights have a heavy price tag attached to them. Build Plan The plan for the lights is relatively simple, replace all the crappy bulb situation with inserts that can hold an array of high power LEDs. This will be done by designing an insert that will be made from laser cut acrlyic to fill the area where the reverse and indicator bulbs used to sit. Same goes for the brake light, but luckily for me, Ford already made an insert for this - however not present in certain tail light variants. I wanted them to have a few features too, like sequential indicators and a start up animation. Nothing fancy like RGB because that adds too much complexity and will ultimately drive the cost way up. I also wanted to make these with the potential of selling to interested parties, meaning that I have to have the option for a completely plug and play system - even if that means limited features. Without giving the complete design away, I ended up with a solution that can do both. But for the set I'm making myself it will not be "plug and play" because the controller will require constant power (accessories) to be able to do a start-up animation. So basically I needed 3 things: Brake insert Indicator/ reverse insert LED controller There are some LED controllers out there on the market, but they were either stupidly expensive, or wouldn't do what I wanted. So I made my own. Some interesting specs I can share now I started with creating a design spec, basically a word document where I "told a story" of what I wanted out of the lights, this lead to what I would eventually need to design. Brakes The brake insert has a total of 80 LEDs. 35 of which are arranged in a type of ring around the insert, acting as the park brake, the rest of which are arranged inside this ring that will be the brake light. This outer ring can be set up to have each LED individually addressable to allow me to create a start-up animation. Indicator & Reverse The insert is made from 3mm acrylic that is laser cut and then heated and shaped to fit into the housing. It features 22 white LEDs on the bottom two rows for reverse, and 36 amber LEDs for the indicator in the upper two rows. Each column of the indicators are addressable so that I can create sequential indicators. LED Controller PCB The controller is designed to either be plug and play or not to have more features. It has 4 inputs that can be used as triggers to do stuff. They are also up to 20V tolerant, surge and reverse polarity protected. Same goes for the power input. There are a total of 32 constant current LED driver channels capable of up to 45mA per channel (if you know much about LEDs, this is PLENTY). There is also previsions to extend the channel outputs to 64 by using a second, less populated LED controller PCB. Not really much else to talk about that's interesting to most folk that's on the board so I'll leave it at that. To date, I have assembled both indicator inserts complete with LEDs, and both brake inserts minus the park LEDs. I have assembled and tested one LED controller. I'm currently working on the code for the controller, and once that is done I can start testing and improving the code. Will share more when I have more, for now, I'll throw some more pics of the progress in a few replies 2 of the 3 brake light arrays tested. Total draw is going to be about 0.5A. A fraction of what a bulb draws. Pitty this will likely f*ck with the cars BCM, so I'll have to add a load resistor onto the car once they're installed. First ever test fit on the indicator and reverse insert. Was a very exciting moment for me! This is what took the most time to design. Installing the reverse LEDs into the insert. I'll take some snaps of what they look like now when I get home!

I finally own a drill

Nah I'm not gonna spend money on flex fuel. Cool feature, too overpriced for what it is imo

Yea I 100% agree with you! Got the exhaust order in the process atm, easier to fork out the 1k now rather than 2k 🤣 I can have that sent to me while I await more updates from the warranty company. After that, I can get a more clear understanding of what I can get from them, how much the rest of the work at MT will cost, and from there I can better assess if its worth me dumping money into the fuel system. Problem I have is that if I go with the kpm fuel system, I'll really want to make the jump to e85. Never would have in the past because it was my daily, but it isn't any more... That jump won't sting as bad now seeing as the car already needs a retune

Yea we'll just have to see how the claim goes. My hopes is that I fork out 2k for the fuel system and the warranty money covers the rest. Wringing every last cent from the fkers after they've made me wait this long. fk em

Cheers puff, yea look I realise I didn't really give much context. TL;DR So, recap, 400kw out of a factory exhaust system ( plus 4" dump and 5" cat), 255lph in tank pump. Possible or not possible? As the story has unfolded thus far on this thread, I have installed a pulsar (gen 2 I believe) 3582 + 45mm wg. I'd really like to get into the 400kw club tbh, but at this point I'd just be happy to have a running car again. Yea I hear you wrt 525 pumps in a factory in-tank setup, I have seen this done in the past, and there is even an ebay seller that does this. I believe the 1000hp kit that kpm provides is probably the best bang for buck, reliable option you can get. For under $2k you get: Anti-surge in-tank module(their own design) 2x 300lph fuel pumps upgraded fpr complete wiring harness e85 ready too This is what makes it so appealing to me. Its a lot less work to install compared to external anti surge systems and is cheaper. There is enough people out there running this setup with awesome feedback that makes me feel comfortable getting it. If I get this too, I will also install a hobbs switch to stage the second pump so it negates the idling issue - however I don't think this would be a problem with the 2x 300lph pumps. I think (pure speculation) that the factory should be okay to handle this.

Wow its been a hot minute! I don't wanna jinx it, but I think the tune is almost around the corner! I've been patiently waiting over 8 months to hear back from the warranty company, someone over there is about to get a very unhappy complaint along with ACCC action - beyond a joke waiting 8 months and hearing nothing back from them. Anyway, not the point of this update, I'm actually here to ask some questions: What is the limitation of a stock exhaust + 4" dump combo? How much power can you comfortably get out of a 255lph in-tank pump? My fuel tank is really, really empty and it has me thinking about my next upgrade. Do I keep the exhaust setup I have and upgrade the fuel system (will be doing kpm drop-in module), or keep the 255 fuel pump and upgrade the exhaust. The exhaust option will be the ultrex 4", seeing as I already have their 4" dump. It will cost $990 to complete the exhaust, 4" all the way. The KPM 1000hp in tank setup is just shy of $2k delivered. I will get both in the future, but for now I need to decide which one is the better purchase for the retune. Cheers for the help all

8 months since lodging a warranty claim and still waiting Time to elevate the matter I reckon That sucks mate! Hope you don't get it too bad and recover quick!

I guess first steps of basic troubleshooting applies here. Rule out the easy things first Check your fuses Check all the bulbs and verify they aren't faulty Verify the plug on the tail light loom is securely connected. Can also check the connections for corrosion etc while you're there I don't fully understand what you're saying though, could just be me but I don't get what you mean by this. Try give us more details. Like any history of you replacing the tail lights/bulbs and stuff. What specifically in the tail light is not working.

We have a 3 bed 2 bath, single story rental with fully ducted reverse cycle A/C. House doesn't have solar. Reverse cycle A/C is expensive to run, just the nature of the system. It uses a lot of power (electricity) to do its job. Much the same as the A/C system in your car. They are power hungry systems but are by far the most efficient systems. We try to use it as little as possible, usually on for 2 hours max on the days we use it. Here is a link to some info on power usage of A/C's if it helps. I wish I had more info for you, but sadly I don't have any power logging systems (like solar systems) to give any detailed info. I know for sure that they use way more power than conventional evap A/C units, and conventional gas heaters.