jeromie0

Hey guys, Sorry but can't make the cruise. I have a trip I need to take to sydney regarding an urgent matter with a client, and saturday was the only available day. Sorry all, but will be at the next one!

Hey, The fake wall sits pretty much where the recess in the floor starts for the spare wheel. The sub box is mounted flush with the wall, with the amp for the front speakers sitting in front of the sub box, but behind the rear seat. Audio control has speaker level inputs, sub control and rca outs. Basically, the head unit speaker level connections run into the back of the audio control, which then puts it out to the amps. I have full control over low, mid and high frequencies via the adjustable knobs on the audiocontrol, plus I can adjust the gain of the whole sound stage, the sweep, fader and of course the sub level. The fader fades front and sub only. Rear fill speakers are off the factory head unit. if you look around on the website I linked previously, there is a link there to audiocontrol's website, with the full user manual for the 3.1. I modified the chip in the audiocontrol using a 65hz chip instead of an 90hz I believe to get a fuller sound upfront. Basically, higher freq better for subs, lower better for fronts.

I put one in and it is working great! Tuner said it was pretty good, and don't notice the noise over my stereo - either that or I just got used to it. I am running 270rwkw and it seems to be fine.

I had the same problem with my two subs, but I managed to get the two eclipse subs in by facing them towards the cabin which created enough space for the box. It is a ported box and goes pretty hard, though it is tuned more for sound quality than SPL. But it was a pain to fit! Pics here http://www.alexminassian.com/ford.htm

Hey mate. I would recommend Alex Minassian. He is based in Wishart just near Mt Gravatt. He did the install on my car and has had years of experience. Been around the traps with a number of cars to most installers, and wouldn't trust anyone else other than him. Pics of my car stereo install found here http://www.alexminassian.com/ford.htm On my install, he had the car for nearly 1.5 weeks, and found pretty much every potential problem, audio wise with the BA Ford. I listed my install on the general xr6turbo forum on the website, so check it out for some more info.

Thanks for that! Alex recommended the AVI's when I first started getting into stereo gear. They sound great with cars, but need a fair bit of amp power to get them sounding nice. With the set up I have, they actually can drown out the 2 eclipse subs for sheer volume. The factory door pods on the XR6 fit the AVI 6" mid perfectly, with the tweeters mounted on the inside of the door mirrors. The standard sound from the factory head unit is ok, but could be better.

Thanks! I wanted the car to be streetable so stereo was a nice (but heavy) addition. It has blunted he performance somewhat, but is really nice to listen to. May upgrade to dvd later on. Am wanting over 300rwkw so need edit to see how I can do that.

Hi All, Just keeping everyone updated with list of modifcations to the car. Just put in the stereo system, running the following components: Audiocontrol 3.1 AVI FRM 6inch splits 2x 12inch eclipse subs Nakamichi 4x100wrms amp (bridged to fronts) Hifonics Brutus BX2000D sub amp for subs 1 Farad Capacitor Pics available from my car stereo installer, Alex Minassian. Install was of the highest qualty with everything either discreet and factory/oem. A fair bit of custom work but the pics will speak for themselves. Would recommend if anyone wants to run a great upgrade whilst still keeping factory controls. Alex can also convert basic stereo to 6 stack and/or climate control with colour screen. http://www.alexminassian.com/ford.htm Will be going on cruise end of July so can show ppl what it looks like and how it sounds if curious. Also, have put in the following engine upgrades - Bigger front mount intercooler - turbosmart type # BOV - APS Phase II (exhaust, CAI, injectors, 2nd fuel pump, unichip) - Walbro intank fuel pump. Dynoed at CNJ Motorsport making 271.6 rwkw. Graph to be uploaded in a couple of days. Next on the list will be the following: - Springs, shocks, swaybars, bushes - brakes - Edit to replace unichip. Car has awesome midrange now and sounds absoultely awesome with type 3 BOV

Hey! I'll be in if I can still get in! Wouldn't mind a cruise and also get to meet some of the other members. - lawrence

Sent the forms in on Monday. Cya there. The last time Paul from Elite was out he ran 1:02's - I think that was on Nankang's too. The guy can drive! ← That's a great time! A lot of the faster cars normally only get down to 59:00! Would love to see it. A few questions though, is it on stock suspension? Hehehe, I am a little bit nice to my car, but hey it sets a new bar to reach. I have hancook's on the car now, and they seem to perform a little bit better than the nankangs.

There would be a big difference in the V8 Supercar laptimes. They run full suspension, lighter weight and slick/semi slick tyres, so it wouldn't be a competition. It will also depend on the track that is running as QLD Raceway has a few different track variations. I have normally raced the sprint track, and posted a best of 1:10 but that was on nankang tyres which aren't the best for the track. I have seen an NA XR6 post 1:08's, but I think the Xr's would struggle to get below 1:06's - though hopefully I am proven wrong! Friends are free to bring, as they just watch from the pitwall. I'll be there, though won't be racing as I need a new clutch :( Hope to see you crack into the 1:03's?

Normally passengers aren't allowed in the car when you are out on the racetrack. That said, the last session of sprints at QLD Raceway, they let people take on passengers at the end of the session as we finished early. If they do allow it then passengers will need to wear a helmet for the session. They may let us do it at the end, but will have to check with the organisers for this one.

A recent test in Autosalon magazine that compared air filters rated the K&N Air filter as one of the best filters in relation to the 10 or so that they tested. They made up a test based on FLOW and FILTRATION and it came in best or 1st in Filtration and 4th in terms of overall flow. They used a pod filter for the test (I am assuming that since the pic in the mag is a pod) but rated it quite highly. Buy the magazine to read it yourself, but have been reading it for over 2 years and the results seem spot on. Incidentally a brand called 3A racing filters came in first overall.

Hey, dunno if it helps, but my car when I fitted just the APS CAI and K&N air filter used about 3 or 4 l/100lkms more fuel than before to about 18l 1/100kmk - very similar to what you were talking about. I then got the rest of the APS phase II and the fuel usage went down to about 12.5L /100km I think the retune helped, but I don't think the fuel gauge is accurate as it reads I should get about 600km to a full tank, whereas I only get about 400 - 420 km per tank (not running it fully dry, but on empty) Would suggest you get a retune to optimise the fuel mixture, otherwise go back to standard. I like the throttle response of a better CAI, so the extra fuel would be worth it for me. Remember that there are some differences from factory and I thought that mine was using more fuel than standard when I first got it.

QLD Raceway is pretty good as there is run off in most areas, but there is the pit wall down the main straight, and also the side wall (with a fair bit of run off I might add) past turn 2 on the back straight. Have only seen one guy go into the wall in the last couple of years, and that was because a ford gt40 lost its oil coming into turn one, and an XR6 trailing behind hit the oil and went straight into the wall. It happens, but that was a fluke considering a following GT40 and a Ferrari just spun into the gravel trap past the first corner. But yeah I would say, from personal experience that it is one of the safest tracks around, and as long as everyone races within their limits and stays sensible on the track, then there shouldn't be any incidents.

I think it gets cheaper the more people that do it, but there is a certain amount of cars they will allow on the track at one session. But I am sure more details will follow from the organisers soon! Insurance companies don't generally insure your car when it is on the track, but I have heard of some insurance companies insuring the car for the day it is on the track for an extra fee. I heard this off a friend of mine so I don't know which company does it, but it would be best to speak with your insurance company. Personally, I think there is little risk of damage on the track - providing you are sensible with your car and drive within yours and the cars limits. But like the road in general, anything can happen, so best to check.

Running the heater helps to dispel the heat in the engine and engine bay by pushing it through the cabin. On the really hot day in nov or october when I went out, the temps were in between half and 3/4's with the heater on full! Just helps to make sure that the engine won't overheat. I don't think the XR6T's need it but I try to do every little bit to make sure that the car would be ok.

I ran 270rwkw on the track and just upgraded my brake pads to ebc reds. Brakes didn't fade for nearly the entire 5 lap sessions (ran 3 sessions in all) so that would be a good bet, and some better brake fluid. Oil change would be good too, but other than that, if you are nice with the car, it should be fine! est cost was about $230 for pads front and rear on standard brakes and about $50 for brake fluid and oil will depend on what you want to use. mate im keen but what do I need as I havenot been to one of these things be fore ← Other things you might need apart from pad and fluid upgrade are: 1) empty your car of all loose items before coming out to the track, or having a spare car to dump it in 2) wheel alignment isn't a bad idea just to make sure it is right 3) good idea to bring a long sleeve tshirt to put on/over when you go out and race. No special suits are normally required 4) drink a fair bit of water as you loose a lot when you are out there racing. 5) run the heater if the day is hot to help your engine out 6) Camera/video camera for pics and vids if you can bring one or better yet, strap it to the car with a car stand. That's about it, but I dunno if there are special rules pertaining to the day, but we shall see

F6 Rapid - Shane + 4 mates Goldie - Ian GT290 - Paul +1 mate (Expensive Daewoo Monaro) Sutty - Phil+Tranny(IF that's OK) Citric Acid XR6T - Greg (maybe) XR6NA-Ben (As I said in the other thread I'm in as long as I have my T by then) O2STOCK Dalts - Lee rapidchris-chris Gear - Jeff Jeromie0 - Lawrence Hey Put me down for that definitely! I should have some more mods done to the Ford by then

Well I can say that if you upgrade the brake pads to ebc reds and the brake fluid to something better, then the car will run for 5+ laps on the stock brakes no worries! I did that pulling up from about 170Km/h on the main straight to about 120km for the first corner, and the car held up fine. ebc red pads are the way to go! ← How much are they? ← They cost me about $240 for the pads plus better brake fluid and labor, so all up probably about $280-$300 - and much better stopping for street. Well done Jeff! that is a great time, and look forward to seeing you improve on it. From what I hear you drove pretty well

Well I can say that if you upgrade the brake pads to ebc reds and the brake fluid to something better, then the car will run for 5+ laps on the stock brakes no worries! I did that pulling up from about 170Km/h on the main straight to about 120km for the first corner, and the car held up fine. ebc red pads are the way to go!

The Xr5t did really well from what my friends told me. He seemed to be dominating his group, but I think he was just before my group and we were busy waiting to go out on the track, so I didn't get to see him much. The other guy was scott, and he can really drive the XR6! He posted a better time than me, though I would rather have had his rims and rubber for the track. The F6 was silver! I don't know the person, but yeah it was silver. He looked pretty quick though. Race rubber would make a huge difference, but again you can still have fun on the normal road tyres. You would be a serious racer to want to go Semi slicks or full slicks, but on the sprint track you could probably pick up as much as 5-10 seconds per lap if not a little bit more.

Yeah it is heaps of fun. Cost is $75 for the day, plus either $20 for a day licence or $55 for an annual licence. Anyone with a road registered car and a drivers licence can race.

Hey all! Went to QLD raceway today to see how the XR6 would go on the track. I had the APS Phase II kit plus upgraded brake pads to EBC Reds and better brake fluid. Everything else was stock. Was a pretty hot day, but posted a pb of 1:10.6 seconds, which wasn't far off my time I placed in the starlet. Another guy with an XR6 n/a posted a 1:08.6. My 19's (read heavier rims) plus nankang rubber were clearly not the track choice.... There was also a mad XR5 turbo that was dominating the group it was in. Hope to see more XR's next time around! Finally there was a silver F6, stock from what I heard, but looking pretty good down the straight. Pics of the day:

I got taken by one of those at a set of lights too. I didn't think he would get the jump on me the way he did, but so the story goes.... If another hard launches and you aren't ready for it they can be hard to rein in.