Stealth-T

I had the same noises at some point and just made sure to put the front rotors back on nice and snug with the wheel on a little tighter than spec and the noise went away. It was the exact same in parking lots and low speed corners and the rotors being a little loose.

In case you haven't gotten the DBA xtreme pads yet, be prepared for dust. I couldn't bare my wheels turning from shiny silver to grey/black within a week of washing. Hopefully the street performance would be a little less dusty

Thanks a bunch @ilk I pulled and cleaned plugs again before re-gapping them all to exact same (realised they were a little funky when pulling them). Then used the CRC on all connectors and seems to have solved the problem! Shame I couldn't couldn't find your post when I first searched and thought I was going nuts...

Thanks puff and keith. The high RPM misfire was my version of high RPM (anything above 4000) and when we pulled the plugs it was defs a couple of crappy plugs and ran fine after that. I'll give it a go tomorrow with a couple runs and see what it does on idle after, but when I do go full throttle it doesn't seem to have any delays other than the half a second of lag. Thanks for the thoughts gents!

I wouldn't have thought that they'd be suspect as I don't really rev it out. How would I test for soft valve springs/thoughts on why them?

Well I checked all the wiring tonight and it seems to be in good condition. So I'm not sure what to track down on next, but I'm thinking I should double check that plugs are gapped to .7 It's really got me stumped

Yeah hoping it's not the tune as it was on the dyno at the tuners straight after changing plugs and he didn't spot anything other than a little boost leak from the plastic end-tanked I/C I had... 😞

Cheers mate. I'll give cam and cam angle sensors a double check. I'm pretty sure the coil wiring was fine as I did give it all a quick once-over. But I'll double check. Just find it really strange that it only does it on cold days. So wouldn't think it'd be wiring unless there's a ridiculously tiny gap in there.

Coils are perfect because I just replaced them as part of my general maintenance and it made no difference to the misfire. And I made sure to get brand-spankers from Ford! Ya I had it tuned a couple years ago. Do you suspect tune isn't happy?

Hey folks. From my searches all over I couldn't seem to find an answer, so I was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction. After developing a misfire at high RPM, it was determined I had a bad plug or two and they were all replaced and gapped to .7mm just like my previous plugs. All was dandy. Day after I found it misfired just as it was getting warmed and the error symbols came up on the dash. However when I pulled out the xcal4 and tried to scan for errors it was gone and the error did not re-occur for the rest of my drive. This is where the annoyance begins. It only happens on cold days where it's sub 10 degrees outside temp. and when the car hits a warm point. After turning the car off and on again the misfire/error does not re-occur and the couple times I've tried to scan for codes there has been nothing that has come up. I know the coils are perfect so it isn't them. Does anyone have any clue as to what might be causing this? Proving very annoying to narrow down

Well luckily I'm after something without plastic endtanks to boost leak rather than any big upgrades for the moment😃

I had my fg tuned a couple years ago with the standard cooler and have recently acquired an fg F6 intercooler. When I spoke to my tuner last year while getting a misfire sorted, he said I could drop an f6 cooler in without needing a retune (but could get it checked if I wanted). Reading through the intercooler threads is a bit iffy on the topic, but is it necessary to get a retune or was he about right? And what would the consequences be of running it without the tune if it is required?

Hey mate, don't know about those w shaped leaf springs 😱 but looks like your shocks might be koni reds rather than the stock ones (which are a black plastic unit that have a FoMoCo sticker at the bottom).

Another question while I'm going down the rabbit hole, does the diff cradle need to be dropped to put in new control blade bushes?

Defs don't need lower springs lol. Scrape so much already... I might have a better look at the KYB's though.

Yeah I was thinking the Koni's would be better for performance, but lugging around people they might complain if it's a bit firm. Was thinking along the same lines with replacing F+R. While I'm looking at it I may even go so far as diff bushes if superpro are still the go-to...

It's time to replace the rear shocks on my mk2. What is the recommendation for a a standard replacement that is same or slightly better than stock? I've looked around a little bit and seen too many options, but on the more affordable end seems to be koni reds or KYB?

Nobody had this issue or heard of it?

Yeah I've tried checking it with the xcal and there's nothing there. Thinking about it I did get an error pop up for one of the coils, which I fixed at about the same time. But no coil error after the first time it appeared and I immeadiately fixed (was a loose plug on a coil). So I'm pretty lost on what it could be.

Hi guys, I'm back after a hiatus on car work. So for back story I recently I had an issue with missing at high rpm. Took it to the dyno and confirmed my suspicion of spark plugs being busted and having a slight leak from the plastic intercooler. Since then I replaced the spark plugs and have installed a new metal end tank intercooler (I also swapped the piping earlier this year for the intune kit). This has fixed my boost leak and missing at high rpm which is great. However, about a week after replacing the plugs I got an intermittent DSC Fault with no associated code. It doesn't always come on when I drive, just every couple of drives, or sometimes multiple times in one drive and then nothing. I spoke to my tuner and he has no clue what could be causing it either 😞 I thought it might be the brake light switch, but I don't touch the brakes when this fault appears. Anyone have any clues as to what it might be? Cheers.

Yeah, the plastic end tanks and other bits n' pieces would've been easier/cheaper to produce. I'm wondering if there is any realistic performance/reliability differences between them. Like changing the number of plates from 12 to 14...

I'm back with more cooler related queries! Thanks to ElAndrew for letting me have a poke around at his piping kit I'll be going ahead with that real soon. Anyways, I was wondering what the differences are between the fg mk1 & mk2 coolers as I saw a mk1 which looked a bit different. I know it has the cast end tanks vs. plastic on the mk2. But I had a closer look and there appeared to be 12 horizontal tubes vs. 14 tubes on the mk2. Are there more tubes at a slightly smaller size on the mk2 for better flow? Would the cast end tanks be more reliable (less likely to separate from the core) than the plastic? Just curious from a development perspective of why Ford did this. Cheers.

Yeah, the piping kit alone should end up doing me just fine. Running the stock intercooler means when I get heatsoaked badly I know to ease up and not do (more) silly things which get piggy attention... @Box stock T. CBR, so it isn't the cheapest. But better than inner city sydney

I run the pressure washer over the fins every now and then already, but just wasn't sure how justified I was in worrying about the piping. I've definitely noticed they can be a bit soft. The $250 on piping isn't a concern for me, but the inevitable money/parts spiral I would do if I went ham on mods would...

The pipe coming off the turbo is the one with a small tear, I've had it off a couple times and seems the plastic is quite soft near the ends which would make sense for it to be the common failure point (plus big ol' bend right off turbo outlet). Puffwagon, I've been plenty tempted to do that and more, but trying to stay on a budget saving for a house so there's not much I can do beyond what I can justify for maintenance/precaution