ken666

Ahhhh! Fu*k that.... The noise is half the fun

cool, I'm just looking at options atm, but it will all come together and go on the dyno in March when I return from holidays in Russia! I prefer to do all of my own mechanical work, so I know exactly what is done, and any potential problems could arise from components at, or close to their limits. Obviously there are a lot of experts in this field, but they can be expensive and/or biased to certain components that they sell due to profit made on their bulk bought items. The research I have done on my current setup, has constantly concluded my turbo is the biggest limitation to reliability and more power, simply due to being so close to it's outer limits? I assume a bigger volume pump @ lower boost, will provide both, more headroom and reliability? (and obviously more lag @ lower rpm?) But I'm new to turbo's, so I want to completely understand them myself before making an uneducated guess which one is best for my needs.

I have become fond of the top end power! and have already ordered 4.1:1 gears to compensate for the "lag", and the cam upgrades I have waiting to fit. not sure what the current specs are, except apparently it was a Nizpro stage 3 1/2 setup? It was a bit dead until 2800rpm, but then frightens the sh*t out of me (and anyone else in the car!). I'm not worried about the extra rpm and fuel consumption its going to use, as long as its a rocket when I decide to let loose.. I'm only running 245/35/20's on the rear, so I need the extra power to catch up once traction is achieved Ohh, and I would like to potentially make 750hp at the wheels on a separate tune for E85

is ther any threads you can think of that discuss the options for upgrading my turbo? I have been recommended a GTX3582R 2nd gen by a tuner... that claims it's good for up to 550rwkw? But he didn't tell me the alternatives available.. (obviously cos that's what he has in stock!). I currently produce 612hp at the wheels, but @ 20psi and a sh*tload of other mods (everything!) I would prefer to run less boost to get a longer turbo life, and not be so temperamental with even just a different brand of fuel being used

Haha! that's exactly how my XR6 sounds with the stock turbo....fitted with a high flow core @ 20psi. Only problem is, that it didn't last very long at that boost and now sounds like it's got sand in the bearings after turning the engine off.

But as you know only too well, your 60ft times can be the difference of winning to losing. its not easy to play "catch up" if both cars are similar in power. too much noise pedal, and not getting the launch right...... you lose, too little and you bog down, as you watch the better geared car drive away. I still haven't found the best way to launch my rocket! I have just settled for the gentle low rpm method then nail it while still suffering turbo lag, relying on my top end power to make up for such a slow start!! I probably should have got one with the ZF auto.

Well, that has helped me decide what ratio gears to fit in the new diff I will start building in my spare time.... 4.11:1 it will be. I can still remember how difficult my XB GT coupe used to be at low speeds, because of the gearing and big cam etc, first gear was 2.32:1!! and final drive was 3:1. It used to pull 120 in first! Ford have always geared too tall in the lower gears for my liking, that's why commodores felt so much snappier off the line.

I would assume that the other 6 speed variants that are fitted with the 3.46 ratio, must be geared lower. What is the configuration, ie.. 5 speed with one overdrive, or 4 speed with 2 overdrives like the commodore? My XR8 is much quicker off the line into the powerband in 1st and 2nd, but seems to have a wider ratio set than my turbo does. And the rpm at 100km/h is a couple hundred lower. Although this could be because of the wheel diameter difference, 18" Vs 20"s?

What is the standard diff ratio for a 2005 BA mk2 XR6T with a 6 speed manual? I'm swapping it out with an earlier XR8 3.46:1 unit, due to a hat failure temporarily until I have finished building a twin bush cradle and locker diff combo. Only problem is, the info sticker on the current diff has been painted over! I read a few conflicting forums on the web, some claiming all 6 speed BA manuals are 3.7:1 and other saying 3.46:1? I'm certain my XR8 6 speed was 3.46 originally. I don't want to go any taller than whatever is in it now, as I spend 4-5 hours a week in peak hour Sydney traffic...... at least 2 of those are in 1st gear and slipping the extremely heavy twin ceramic clutch!!

Can you see this one?

that's a much better design than the original. I will be building a new diff with lower gears to compensate for the turbo lag and the new cams I'm fitting in march, I will definitely fit a kit at the same time. As the car is my daily driver, I wouldn't receive the parts before I return to work on the weekend. But I do have a spare cradle and diff assy that I will prepare ready to swap out. Thanks for that tip

My BA mk2 XR6T daily driver. 612hp @ the treads, aiming to screw it up to 750hp after a turbo upgrade, water to air intercooler and a tune.

If I have to pull it all out again, I should learn a bit more about what parts I have to use to cope with the power and torque going through them. My car is producing 612hp at the treads, and has destroyed 2 bushes since I got it 2 months ago..... The first was a rubber OEM type with the shell, so I fitted a solid blue urethane one, but it quickly broke free of the alloy tube its bonded to and was forced out of the tube on the cradle and over the head of the bolt? (I have fitted a 45mm washer/retainer to hopefully resolve this issue with the latest bush) I replaced it with a nolathane unit with the relief holes in it, hoping that they will absorb some of the load.

Hi, I was wondering if anyone has attempted to replace the diff cover on a BA XR6T, without dropping the cradle? I only had the cradle and all out of the car 2 weeks ago to replace the bushes and diff, but it appears that there must have been a fault or hairline crack in the alloy where the bolt goes in..... and it broke a piece off the top, and now the bolt just swings in the breeze! Is this a common issue, or could it just be the result of the extra play when the bush was flogged out? Cheers Ken