Slowxr6t

Do the front bushes crap out much? The back one is an utterly rubbish design but do the front ones wear out much? Should I put in stock ford front or superpro bushes which are solid urethane?

Iv ordered a ims diff hat to install myself. My fgx has done 30k kms so I'm gonna leave stock front bushes in cos they should be sweet, what do you jokers reckon?

So I got my brakes fixed, my engine builder checked them and dba 355mm rotors are not true and they havnt even been hot ( green heat paint is still there). He machined them for me and they are good now. Other mechanic hadn't even checked them for trueness. ( useless). Happy now just gotta get boost surge sorted and iv noticed another frigging oil leak coming from somewhere on front of engine again. After I thought I had it all sealed up awesome. Frustrating as.

Is there a go to brand of forged pistons and rods that most people use for road going barras? Do the stock rods or pistons give up first? Atomic told me the stock pistons can get the ring lands blown off anything after 400rwkw, what have peoples experiences been?

@JETURBO can you confirm this? Does the fgx na have the same zf as turbo fgx? Or are you not sure? Thanks

Hi Guys, do you guys know the differences between the na and turbo engines and zf 6 spd? Is the na zf weaker?

So my car is still having boost control issues. Tuna and I did some on road testing and tuning the other day. Resorted to open loop because he couldn't sort it on closed loop, boost surging all over the show. Open loop he got it sorted or so we thought! It was boosting up fine with no surge at all, I thought ok sorted we'll leave it there. Then today went for a drive, ambient temp about 5 degrees cooler and it's surging bad again! I bypassed boost solenoid with tube straight from compressor outlet to bottom port of external wastegate and it goes to 10psi and holds there so it's not the wastegate setup. Question, if I choose to bypass solenoid permanently due to not being able to get boost control sorted is it ok? I will just run straight off wastegate springs. Does ecu care if solenoid not reading boost? Should I leave it plugged in and just block the lines coming off it? @Captain Yeah Nahand or @JETURBOif you will answer, and anyone else who wants to chime in. Thanks guys.

@JETURBOcan you take a look at my dynograph above, I have since sorted the boost surge. Boost control is in open loop now and behaving good. Question, I have stock size 245 tires on still and am going to stay that way, I'm not going to do big launches, at this power is my tailshaft gonna break? Should I be getting a beefier shaft or is it fine at this level?

Yea, I went to see local helpful engine builder and he's gonna help me check the trueness of my front rotors with his guage thingy. He said 1 of them might be a tiny bit warped, so that's a good next step. Probably should have been the first thing to check. Went to see other mechanic twice and got charged $172.50 each time for no result.

So brake shudder still happening on my car with light braking 50kmh and under, shop put a 45 degree bevel on leading and trailing edge of front pads, helped a bit but still does it. Shop has again checked everything out and done more research and reckon its the dba slotted rotors doing it and said the slots need to have angled sides not 90 degrees sides. Needs ie. (Vee shaped ) slots. So they said I should get some 355mm flat rotors just vented not slotted. I didn't think I would have trouble with a decent quality set of front anchors, what a pain.

Do you need adjustable arms when you lower the fg? I'm thinking about lowering a bit. What is needed to do it properly? 15-20mm lower.

Have you guys seen the internal wastegate set up that the borgwarner efr turbos have efr? They have awesome flow to the gate hole. 38mm hole and 42mm wg flapper door. Thinking about changing out the gt3582r for a efr 8474 t3.83 iwg 950hp capable turbo. Would need p steer reservoir relocation and a new 4 inch dump made up. Which I could make myself. They supposedly spool faster than gtx3582r. Look like a mean ball bearing turbo. TurboDirect S.A on YouTube have some really good videos on them.

Turbosmart make internal gate actuators with dual ports.

@biddie_fiddler Spring rating dictates when wg valve starts to open unless boost solenoid is bleeding off air. If you hook up compressor outlet tube directly to bottom port of wg then the air pushing on underside of wg diaphragm will force diaphragm up which opens wg valve when spring rating is reached. Eg 7psi spring, roughly 7psi boost. Exhaust pressure in turbine housing doesn't usually push wg valve open unless running huge boost. I could be wrong on that. The top wg port goes to atmosphere, unless you're trying to hold valve closed with boost for longer with a whole different plumbing situation.

@JETURBO can you check out my new dyno graph I posted and see if you reckon my tailshaft will handle it? I just don't want it coming thru the floor and taking me out. Take into account its 10% too high, thanks

But the pad was shut today! If you gotta do one you gotta do one. Hope they busted a diff lol Single Peggers huh? Cut them some slack, it might have been a g6et.

Noice, what's a roller worth compared to a hub?

So @Puffwagon are you a backyard mechanic? Do you do it for a living? Use the road as a dyno?

@gaz097 Your dirt bike fuel would have had 2 stroke oil mixed with it which makes it spoil and go off heaps quicker. 98 by itself lasts ages (months) if not longer in my experience. My old 300zx with 450rwkw on 98 only gets driven every 6 months or so and hasn't blown to bits.

Talk nice to him and he might let you park some of your land crabs in his shed.

Shall we set up a give a lot fund for @Puffwagon? Sheds cost alot, I might have to start over soon if we sell part of our farm and I have to move to our other farm. Might be up for 100k shed build and have to move 100 years of crap from current workshop to new sheds.

@Puffwagon Have you heard of that being done to brake pads? He said something about the slots on the disc causing it at a certain temperature and light braking. Interesting fix! I had a decent drive in town after picking it up and it shuddered once just after picking car up and I thought crap it's not fixed but thought I'd give it a chance to settle and for next 30 minutes it braked fine so hopefully it's good now.

@PuffwagonI took car to mechanic today to check out brake shudder problem, they took pads out and put an angled chamfer on the leading edge of the pad, it seems to have fixed it so that's cool.

Gone turbo side intake now and got 3582r with .70 front cover ramping in as hard as it can. 16-17 psi by 2500rpm 447rwkw on dynapack hub dyno which apparently read 10% high, so I have a genuine 400rwkw now.

@Don KedickI used the atomic studs with os washers on my car also. Seemed like a clever idea to stop them washers pulling down into the head alloy.