Slowxr6t

I dont want to do work to zf or driveline if I can help it.

Took the head off today to retrieve the valve that fell through into cylinder while changing springs, clocked up 34th hour of work on car so far for this big monster garage project, probably another 34 to go lol. Ordered atomic 12mm headstuds and oversize 28mm washers too. I'm doing atomic oil pump, valve springs, headstuds by default which is probably not a bad thing, bigger turbo, pw stg 2 cooler, 1050cc injectors, kpm 700hp intank fuel pump, 4 inch turbo back exhaust up to the 3inch flange that goes to 2 and a quarter pipes. 45mm turbosmart gate off the housing plumbed back downstream. I'm going for a strong reliable 350 to 370rwkw.

Cool, so it shouldn't bind? Valve hole is 5.5mm, can you buy long magnets that thin?

Its definitely in cylinder, no valve to be seen thru exhaust port, I turned crank lightly clockwise a little bit and it stopped, I think piston may be binding on valve.

Well today I got back into changing valve springs, all was going well until I got to exhaust valve on cylinder 4, I started winding bolt down to compress spring and I heard valve pop off seat and it started to pass a bit more air, I got collets off and when I put new spring on and started to compress it to get the collets on, the valve was going down as well and it would come up again when I unwound tension off the spring, I tried a couple of times then took spring off. Anyway I touched the top of the valve stem with my finger and it decided it would glide off down into the cylinder. Now I have a problem, I cant see it thru exhaust port. My engine builder said I should have had each cylinder at tdc when doing each cylinder. Was prepared to pull off head and change head bolts to arp bolts, new head gasket, but I'm gonna try turn crank slowly so piston comes up and try retrieve valve with magnet and try poke it back up valve stem first. No one told me to have each cylinder at tdc so if a valve drops it cant go far. Also if the piston is down the cylinder is a big area to fill with air and it's harder for the air to hold valve up, makes sense!! All was going so well too, damn it.

Today I installed atomic oil pump with my mechanic and he showed me how to change valve springs and I'm doing them today and tomorrow, the collets are fiddly little sods but a bit of grease is the trick to stick them to screwdriver when installing the collets. Iv changed 8 springs so far working from front to back and really not looking forward to doing back springs, I'm using atomic tool.

Ok thanks camo. So why is it not necessary to go to colder plugs with these motors when usually turbo motors need to?

So the YE07's are 1 colder than stock? You say you've used lots of them, how long do they last aaronm?

I have stock standard plugs in it at moment, iv just been stock piling parts and I'm about to start the big monster garage project soon, Ford over here said they cant get 1 heat range colder, repco said $56 per plug for 1 heat range colder iridium, but that sounds way too much $. No one in nz seems very helpful so far.

Thanks camo, so should I go 1 colder heat range to a 7?

@JETURBO, Hi, are you saying the standard xr6 turbo sparkplug which is 6 heat range is fine for up to 22psi boost? Im going to run 18psi and about 350rwkw and I thought 1 heat range colder would be needed. Is it not necessary to go to colder plugs on these motors??? Thanks

What number heat range is stock spark plugs in fg and if I'm going to run 18psi and 350ish rwkw should I run 1 heat range colder? What number would that be? Do fg xr6t have platinum stock?

Oh arronm I forgot you drive a manaul

Hey @arronm what about the flex plate?

No Brad was very clearly talking about head studs needing to be done from 280rwkw, he was also telling me engine had to come out to take head off and that their OS washers fit straight in. Maybe he just wants to sell more stuff? He is a really helpful bloke though.

Great thanks jet, Brad from atomic told me from 280rwkw they need studs. What about the flex plate, when will that die?

hi guys, I'm aiming for 350ish rwkw, I dont want to have to start spending cash on zf because it looks to me like a never ending money pit, and for me I think 350rwkw will be heaps of grunt given the torque these motors have. Anyway with a gt3582 .70 comp housing, external gate, pw st2 cooler, exhaust, intake, fuel system, v springs, atomic oil pump and 18 or so psi boost. Will my motor need head studs? Can head be taken off block with engine still in car? Thanks guys.

Nice, is that classed as excessive loss of traction by the cops? That's what they call it here in nz

Did a base dyno run today, 2015 fgx xr6t, 258rwkw with just a k&n in stock airbox, 9psi boost, dynapack hub dyno, tuner said fuelling looked perfect. I thought that was a pretty healthy result. Have I got a Wednesday engine?

I did a base run today and car made 258rwkw with just a k and n panel in stock airbox, 9 psi boost, I thought that figure was pretty healthy, tuner said fuelling looked perfect. Dynapack hub dyno.

So I'm thinking of replacing my fgx xr6t oil pump myself on my hoist with a complete atomic forged unit. So is the difficult part removing the x member under the engine? Why is it difficult? What can go wrong? Is the engine mounted on the cross member? Does the engine need holding up/ supporting with straps or a engine crane or what to take sump off? Anyone replaced the oil pump with engine still in car? Thanks guys

Thanks puff, so to confirm, if I just put a gen 2 gtx comp wheel on gt3582 .70 comp cover it would spool faster and potentially make more power than if I bored stock 1.06 housing to take to4z supercore? Because of to4z older tech?

Just wondering how it would spool? Could be a cost effective option, I can get a low km to4z turbo for a grand.

Has anyone else done this? What's it like to4z supercore on a t3 1.06 exhaust housing?

@boosted_XR did you have the stock housing machined to suit the to4z supercore? So it was a t3 to4z?