Slowxr6t

@HI PSI is your standard diff centre stuffed? Or why are you replacing it?, also I'm just trying to figure out what you meant about sealing the dif hat, are you getting a half circle shaped slot, or a square slot machined in the sealing surface, and what sort of o ring will you get and where would you get it, would it have to be a custom made seal? I'm wondering if your diff hat has a perfectly flat surface and may need machining flat and maybe the diff surface too? Was the diff leaking stock? Maybe use more 3 bond in a circular motion too. My 2 cents worth also. Cheers

Thanks @Bulletime

Does that have maximum street cred @FiftyOne ?

My arc welding doesn't look pretty but it's as strong as a tank and it's only on the thick walled steam pipe, the tig welding is good done by my engine builder in town, the mig welding done by neighbor. It's all heat wrapped now with titanium wrap so cant be seen. I got a professional cast welder to weld the short bit of 40mm steam pipe on to turbine housing, he cooked it up first in his oven and post heated it to cool slowly, worked out mint, no wastegate restrictions or problems. I made 10mm steel brackets and they are welded to dump and the factory 2 dump brackets bolt to them, I'm real pleased with it. Did 414rwkw at 18psi and pulled it back to 15psi 382rwkw to save driveline and pistons.

Here's pics of my homemade 4inch dump pipe. My 10 year old son helped me upload these pics using imgur, he's a genius, I wouldn't have a clue how to do this. @k31th @Puffwagon @JETURBO @FiftyOne @arronm @camo86T pics above camo

@JoshF6Awesome car, I'm not knocking that turbo but my fgx did 414rwkw and 799nm at 18psi with Garrett 35r .70 compressor housing, external gate, stock cams, with 1 more psi it may have done 420 or more, but we didnt push it any further, pulled it back to 15psi 382rwkw to save the driveline and pistons. Love the sound at idle of your car.

Ok thanks keith, I could live with that. @cat007 yea had opportunity to go to drags the other day, but had a think about it and realised because when I take off in 2nd in tiptronic it rolls off the line then lights up the tires until I back off, it could be pointless drag racing it because I wouldn't be able to get up it till after 80kmh in 2nd gear so would be a slow run not showing anywhere near its potential. And if I put stickys on it something will go bang and I wont be driving home either. Awesome fun car though, puts a smile on my face.

What about with comfort bushes in the ims setup, so not real harsh, has anyone tried it, or does the diff need to be pretty solidly mounted to reduce problems? Iv got standard suspension and I'm not going any firmer. Dont want it to become a dog. What extra nvh is there, under what driving conditions?

Thanks k31th, what is NVH? Excuse my ignorance.

Hi cat007, my turbo is a Garrett 35r with .70 compressor housing and I plumbed a turbosmart 45mm external gate onto the 1.06 external gated turbine housing, it plumbs back in under the car into the 4inch dump I made, its 4inch off the turbo right up to the stock 3 inch flange under the car, the rest of the exhaust is stock, no cat! Car made the grunt easy as just by freeing up the exhaust side, I'm happy as. I did lots of other stuff to it. Ask if you're interested. Cheers

Hi guys, I have boosted up the power of my 15fgx xr6t, stock it had 258rwkw with just a k and n in stock airbox, now after it's been on my hoist for 11 weeks and undergone some internal and external spanner surgery and it's going and all tuned again shes making 382rwkw at 15psi on dyna pack hub dyno. My concerns are 1 the tailshaft. I'm running stock size 245 tires so it spins pretty easy but hooks up in 3rd gear in the zf in the dry. I'm not into power skids and burnouts, but enjoy getting a wheel going as we all do lol. Is my tailshaft going to break? Do they snap on the thin bit before the diff or does the tube twist and break? I'm a bit paranoid about it, if I have to replace it, I think I will get a carbon fibre driveshaft. Also will my axles be fine at my power level? The car has done 30000ks and before any mods when I accelerated hard then quickly backed off there was a thud in the back end, like it was squatting under power then unloaded and went thud, not badly but definitely noticable every time you do it, even does it in town now if you feed it some then back off. What's the noise boys? I'm guessing the bushes holding the diff. Is there any downsides/negatives with the IMS upgrade? Apart from the price. It's not a bad noise, should I just leave it alone until it really gives grief? My main concern is the tailshaft and the damage it will do if it lunches itself. My car made 414rwkw at 18psi but we backed it off to be kind to the drivetrain and the pistons. Opinions please fellow barra modifiers, cheers guys.

My car did 414rwkw with stock crossover and airbox with a k&n panel filter, I do have a 50mm hole bored in front of airbox at the bottom.

Ok thanks for that guys, much appreciated.

I meant trans fart @JETURBO thanks

Keith Stewart dynopro.co.nz he is good, but not overly familiar with the zf. Tuned the barra real good. Iv been told what my zf is doing is a trans fat between gears. Do you know if the trans can start doing it as protection when it senses too much power? @JETURBO

I have no cat. It has 4 inch dump and 4 inch exhaust up to 3 inch flange under car.

Yes he cleared the rear o2 sensor code that was faulting up, when I left the dyno no fault lights were coming up. What about my zf issue @JETURBO

Iv just had my 15 fgx xr6t tuned to 382rwkw, my tuner said he turned up the 'Pressure at high torque' setting, up 10% from what it was stock and that was all he changed on the zf. Now between I think it is 2nd and 3rd gear or it could be 3rd and 4th gear it has this flutter when it changes gear, it did not do it before the tune, it doesn't do it every time, I think only when I'm giving it a little bit of right foot. Also when I left the dyno he had cleared all the warning lights, but 2 days later the check engine light is back on. Is the ecu just not liking the new found power? Any ideas guys? Thanks

My fgx just pulled 414 at 18psi today. It does have a 3582 with .7 housing and standard airbox with k and n. I have 4 inch exhaust up to the 3 inch flange under the car and no cat, standard 2 mufflers.

Well today, I got my 15 fgx xr6t dynoed on the local dyna pack, we got a max of 414 rwkw at 18psi 98 octane fuel, we dialled it back to 382rwkw on 15psi to save the driveline and pistons. Garrett 3582 with .7 comp housing, 4 inch homemade steampipe dump, turbosmart 45mm external plumbed back in down bottom of exhaust, no cat, 4 inch exhaust up to the 3 inch flange under the car, pw stg 2 cooler, stock airbox, k and n filter.

Parts are dodgy too, I bought intercooler piping kit for my 15 fgx off them to suit my pw stg2 cooler, supposed to be no cut, straight fit, what a joke, steel crash bar had to be trimmed quite severely, lots of die grinding plastic bits and had to cut and shut 1 pipe on turbo side 20mm and another 30mm and get them re welded, all that to get the bumper to go back on. And all the pipes had nasty sharp ridges on the inside of them, probly from when the barb on the end was formed, I had to die grind all the pipes to get them smooth on the inside. Also I bought a cast alloy throttle body pipe and it had some big nasty dags inside and it was really pitted on the inside, spent 30 mins with die grinder on that too.

So @JETURBO does speco make a thermostatic sandwich block that can run hoses to a oil cooler, preferably 12mm id hoses or equivalent, and does it have a port to run a oil temp guage. These fg Falcons have some oddball size bits on them, its hard to find accessories to fit, greddy and mocal sandwich blocks seals dont fit.

@JETURBO HI JETURBO, I bought a grex thermostatic sandwich block to rig up an oil cooler and mount the ryco oil filter, problem is the fg xr6t id of the filter housing is 59mm and the id of the o-ring on the sandwich block is 57mm so it will overhang 1mm each side inside the engine filter housing if it is perfectly aligned, I think it's too risky!! Do you know of any other sandwich blocks that fit properly? Maybe mocal? Thanks

@JETURBO I bought a brand new set of I'd 1050x injectors, should I get plug adaptors or get stock plugs taken off and wires joined to new plugs? Also new injectors are too short, can I get extensions or have I got the wrong injectors? Thanks

Today a mate of mine and I tried to fit my brand new set of id 1050x injectors, turns out they are way too short, they go into the rail but if you bolt the rail down they won't go into the engine, so that was an awesome bolt on mod. Anyone know what to do now?? These were supposed to fit, il go back to supplier and quiz him.