Slowxr6t

You're lucky it's over $3 here in NZ lucky my car is on the hoist and not on the road.

@jas98does the ba, bf have shorter power steer line? Thanks

Has anyone had a custom powersteer line made up by a hydraulic hose shop? Seems stupid that the stock fg/fgx line comes off reservoir then goes down and then way back and loops back forward to go onto rack, when it could go straight down from reservoir to rack. I'm thinking of getting my line modified to go straight down from reservoir to rack and also getting a 90 elbow fitting for power steer sensor so my new turboside intake pipe will clear it. I don't really want to bend it down and create a leak on reservoir fitting because I have had to replace the whole line as well for like over $500 for the part. Can a elbow be put on power steer line and sensor be screwed onto it? Or will the sensor have a hissy fit because it's further away from the main line?

@Tom Tuckerturbosmart gen 4 45mm hypergate

@PuffwagonI think I have figured out the boost leak thanks to all your thoughts. The wastegate is leaking from both sides of diaphragm and also down past sides of valve stem. So when valve opens off its seat it leaks up past valve stem into where diaphragm is and goes past diaphragm and pisses out the top port which was going to atmosphere. It must have just started leaking when it had 15psi up it and blew past the diaphragm and out she goes to atmosphere. I reckon that's my boost leak right there. What do you think ? I think I need a new wastegate, didn't last long, piece of crap. Might have to get a water cooled one if it will fit. Anyone tried one?

Bov is turbosmart to atmosphere, I might blank it off to rule out a leak there. It originally made 13-14 psi with the 7psi spring but took a long time to get there, it had been like that since I did all mods and 3582r about a year ago. It had 10psi at 2500rpm but took till 4500-5000rpm to get 13-14 psi. Apart from that it was fine, until the other day I put a 10psi spring in it, That's when all the problems started!! I put in the 10psi spring because I thought the valve was getting pushed open by pressure. I think I was right, but it's all turned to custard. It made 15psi by about 4000-4500 and felt good for about 30minutes of driving, then it decided to make 10max. I'm back using the 7psi spring now with no boost reference and it made 10psi as in my last post with both ports blocked on wastegate. My wastegate needs a new diaphragm kit at a bare minimum but something else is going on too.

@Puffwagon so today I took wastegate off and checked it out, it leaks air from one port to the other past the diaphragm on both ports and when putting air thru one port if you block the other port with finger air leaks down the sides of the valve stem into the valve chamber. So I got a piece of hose and put one end on each port so it's sealed and the hose from boost solenoid is blocked. I went for a drive, wastegate has what we think is a 7psi spring, it got 10 psi pretty quickly, I don't know if it would make more because I stopped because check engine light came on, also at the same time dsc alarm came on. Dsc came on yesterday too and when slowing right down almost stopped the front wheels shuddered like I'd hit a rumble strip or something. It did that about 5 times and then dsc came on. Goes away when turn car off then comes back on again after driving for 5 minutes. Anyway check engine came on so I slowly drove home. It's boosting now with no hose to it from solenoid. Why do you reckon check engine came on? You said boost solenoid doesn't send signal to ecu. So ecu must have sensed 10psi at plenum and sorted it out.

I dont have a cat iv got a big dog 4 inch dump all the way to the 3inch flange under the car.

Thanks puff always appreciate your good knowledge, fire ring is in but I'll check it all anyways, iv pressure tested all the way from compressor housing to throttle body,

Ok so now my car has lost boost pressure, can't get over 10psi now, I didn't hear any bad noises at all. It was making 15psi, then later that day went for another drive and it's only making 7psi sometimes 10psi. I took wastegate off and checked it out and put the stock spring back in it. Diaphragm looks ok. Went for another drive, no change! Then took tube off wastegate that goes to bottom port, (the one that opens the gate) and put a bolt in it to block it off, went for a drive again to see if it would boost, carefully ofcourse. It would get to 10psi only. I thought the exhaust manifold pressure could have been opening the valve a little bit. Then I pressure tested piping from compressor outlet to throttle body, no leaks there, I pressure tested boost reference hose off compressor housing to test for leaks thru the stock boost solenoid. No leaks. I pressure tested compressor housing back to airbox, no leaks. I havnt put air through hose that goes onto bottom port of wastegate to pressure test back to the boost solenoud. There could possibly be a leak from throttle body to inlet manifold but iv looked at all fittings on plenum. I'm baffled, hoping engine isn't damaged, motor sounds fine, same oil pressure, just won't make boost!! What could it be, I'll go pressure test wastegate bottom port hose up to solenoid that could have a hole, would be nice if it does. Any ideas? Does the stock boost solenoid bleed off pressure? Could it be stuffed or malfunctioning? I could run a hose directly from compressor outlet to top port on wastegate to hold it shut and blank off bottom port and see if it makes boost?? Or is bypassing the stock boost solenoid a very bad idea because the ecu gets no signal?

My fgx with gt3582r has a ts 45mm hypergate plumbed onto externally gated 1.06 housing, I wasn't sure what psi spring was in it. It was getting 10 psi boost by 2500rpm but not getting to 13-14psi till about 5000rpm, I knew something wasn't right. I took gate off and tested it with a air compressor, regulator and a accurate air guage. I could see it just cracking open at 9psi and by 12psi nearly wide open so I thought well it must be bleeding off into exhaust so no wonder it takes so long to make 13-14psi. I went to town, guy at performance shop said my spring looked like a 7osi spring, I bought a 10psi spring, put that in and tested it with air. 13psi it's cracking open now and 15psi it's wide open. Put it on car and went for a drive, wow what a difference, 15psi max now at about 4000rpm and goes heaps harder, way more peppy and responsive. Major improvement! My question is I thought the stock ecu/boost control wouldn't have cared about a light spring and would've just boosted up quickly. Obviously you've gotta get the spring rate right for the tune/boost level desired and tuned for with the barra ecu. Also it is tuned for 14psi but another question is, now that I'm getting full boost earlier will I need a retune because of more midrange power or will ecu adjust itself? I still get 10psi at 2500rpm but it rushes to 15psi now and gets there 1000-1500rpm earlier than before. Cheers guys.

My auto electrician worked out that zf gear selector was in slightly the wrong place, dash was saying it was in P for park, but trans wasn't. When we put trans in R the engine started. We adjusted the trans selector arm and she's all good now, yaaa. Battery was too flat as well so charging that up too, jump pack didn't have the juice either, thanks @JETURBO and @Puffwagon.

There's another plug on the side of zf that I have nothing plugged into, is that for diagnostics or something or should I have a plug in that too?

Havnt checked, I'll get sparky to check it out tomorrow

The little red wire from the loom with spade terminal that goes onto starter iv taken on and off starter a couple of times, clicks on good, no go.

Nope earth strap is bolted on and had a jump pack on battery to make sure it had some juice. Could it be anything to do with zf loom plug connectivity?

So Iv just got engine back in and everything hooked back up, well I think everything hooked up after new ati balancer, atomic flexplate, new HD timing chain kit, resealing up motor and hopefully fixing oil leak on the front sump seal. Long story short been very meticulous and careful with all plugs and hooking everything up and went to start motor and dash lights all come on, turn key and nothing, no click click, no starter motor noise, when I turn key radio goes silent but that's it. Anyone got any ideas? Please

@Rob70haha don't try it on wet road like I did with tc turned off, very very bad idea unless you want to fishtail all over the road and almost lose it into the drain on other side of the road. 2nd Scariest moment of my life in a car. @Puffwagonthanks that would be awesome, was it all with stock ecu and boost control?

@PuffwagonFull boost at 3000rpm on gen 2 supercore?? That's awesome! My gt3582r gets 10 psi at 2500rpm and 14psi over 3000rpm sometime, it's hard to tell exactly on the road cos a bit dangerous watching revs and boost guage at same time when boosting. But definitely 10 psi at 2500. Might be the way tuner has set up boost control in ecu?? 10-14 psi takes a while. Giddy @Rob70

800 rpm later is quite a lot, that could be a deal breaker for me. Thanks for that Puff. @Puffwagondid you run gen 2 in your territory on 98 octane? If so what boost and kws? @k31thgood morning keith

@SydCraziI already have .7 comp cover on my gt3582r. I don't know what it would cost to hybridize my turbo, probably a grand, everything is a grand, I might just put that money towards a supercore.

@Puffwagondid you go to 11 blade gen 1 comp wheel or 10 blade gen 2 wheel? I'm thinking of buying a gen 2 supercore. Or getting my gt3582r comp housing bored out to fit either gen 1 wheel or gen 2 wheel. I havnt seen any real life gen 1 vs gen 2 comparisons apart from garrett rhetoric saying gen supposed to be 10 % better. Aus Automotive on YouTube got a gen 1 put on his g6et and it looks like it spools hard out.

So I have just finished getting zf back in after replacing flexplate with atomic one and replacing stock harmonic balancer with atomic/ati unit and replaced front crank seal which I thought was the cause of oil leak at front of motor. Engine hasn't been run yet and oil is still leaking down front from behind balancer. We are sure it must be the front half circle sump seal. So now back to square 1 and motor is coming out to fix it. What a pain! Question is, should I replace cam chain and tensioner with HD atomic stuff while I have motor out? Iv done head studs, valve springs, lower chain sprocket, oil pump already. 382rwkw 14psi boost, 32000kms. Should I just leave stock chain and tensioner there or change it?? I'm not gonna go for mega power in future but may turn boost up to 18psi to get 414rwkw that it did on dyno before we turned it down for longevity. Opinions please guys, thanks.

KFC grease and oil change doesn't get old

So out of interest do many of you guys and girls know of people that have had adverse reactions to the jab? Here in nz there seems to be a fair bit of sh*t hitting the fan. The other day pm jacinda ardern posted on fb asking people to comment on their experiences and adverse reactions. There was apparently atleast 17000 posts and alot of pissed off people, the moderators couldn't delete the comments fast enough and only left a few thousand comments on there. Some people took screen shots before they were deleted though.