Slowxr6t

Very noice, I forgot to mention to you before you built it, that sheds are never big enough, so make it big. Looks great though, wish I could come round for a dyno run in my barra.

Do you aussies lay the concrete after shed is built? Otherway round over here pretty sure. Might be something to do with the scorching temps you get there and concrete setting too quickly and cracking?

@Puffwagonmove to NZ, maxxing out here at 30 on a real hot day otherwise 24-26ish degrees.

Iv heard its all in the tune.

Turbosmart gave me a brand new replacement 50mm progate to replace my leaky one. Took 2 weeks but they came to the party, cheers ts. Iv put 19psi of springs in it and checked it with air compressor, reg and guage, its cracking open at 21psi. Im gonna try it and go to dyno, I want engine to boost 18-19 psi and hold till redline ish, it will be interesting to see how it goes, whether exhaust gasses start pushing valve off its seat early in rpms or not cos I still have stock 3 inch exhaust after the 4 inch dump but with screamer pipe now to relieve back pressure when full boost hits. I will update after dyno visit and boost control remap.

On the up side you wont blow anything up.

Feels like im posting to myself sometimes. Cheers keith for putting my post in here.

Today I got fgx back together after mechanic mate and I supported engine, dropped sub frame, removed sump, cleaned it all up, new half moon seals, used loctite 518 as the goo of choice this time instead of threebond 1215. Removed a snapped sump bolt out of block, tapped a 8mm thread in block, cut all new 8.8 tensile bolts with 10mm heads to length and re-installed the sump. We made 2 studs to screw into bolt holes, one on each side in middle of sump to line the sump up correctly. Iv started car on hoist and had a good look around and so far no leaks, I hope it stays that way!!! Also my new turbosmart 50mm gate doesnt seal shut, at idle exhaust gasses come out screamer pipe, and yes its installed properly, iv taken it off car, and assembled with v band shell and clamp and you can see a small bit of light thru valve, I took it to shop I bought it from and he checked it all out and said we will have to send it back to ts to do a warranty claim. Pretty annoying cos I wanted to go to drags this wknd. Before I did sump I drove it with screamer and to start with its really obnoxious but the noise it makes grows on you and is really quite entertaining but still obnoxious haha, it puts a smile on ya dial every time gate opens.

@Puffwagon merry christmas, im taking sump off fgx to reseal it hopefully properly this time, I dont want to do it again. So im gonna support motor from the top with my frame I made and drop the front subframe. Question is can I successfully remove and re-seal the sump back on with the zf still bolted to motor? Is Threebond 1215 grey still the go-to sealant or should I use hondabond or something else? Should I replace the halfmoon seal on the front of sump, I cant recall if theres a half moon seal at the back?? Im gonna make some threaded studs to thread into block to make the sump re-install way easier this time. Thanks

Hopefullly your cp bullets are still ok except maybe 1 and you can re-use all your other high end expensive valve train, hope the head is still good, new rings and swap it all into one of your other good sonic tested blocks. With any luck another 2k barra. Sweet as mate, turn her down a few notches and it should last more than 10 minutes lol.

Time to build another 2k barra

sh*t is that 2 vertical cracks with rusyy coolant coming thru? Rather terminal. May want to run less boost I reckon, be content with 600ish kws. But then we wont get many bad storys from terrotorys adventures. Will that need a new block or can the cracks be repaired and put in a sleeve?

Hahaha so highly practical family wagon.

Have you taken the wife out in it, or would she be not impressed at all by the insanity of it?? Lol

Great work. Its hard to imagine how that many killawasps would feel like on the road!! Whats the weak link in the driveline? The tires? All the best for the next Roll racing. I hope nothing lunches itself on the terry.

I wasnt being nasty and not sure if you took it too seriously, we know by now youre a pro, it was just some light banter between backyard barra mechanics.

Well if you dont get it done right, even though its easy, you might not be chopping many.

Dont forget quality is best, not necessarily quantity, especially when fixing a barra that will chop a few at roll racing.

Oh yea, might try a 4 port if my next move doesnt work, watch this space for updates.

@PuffwagonTalked to tuner about putting more spring in my 50mm ts gate. It currently has a 14 psi spring in it and we suspect its getting pushed open a bit cos boost drops at 5000rpm from 20 to 15ish despite 95% duty on mac 3 port feeding top and bottom of gate. Gonna try it. Should I put in a 3psi or 5psi spring in with the 14? I thought I will try get it to boost and hold 18psi all the way to 6k rpm because it currently has 750nm torque at 3k rpm and my short lived previous turbo combo gen2 gtx3582r on stock manifold had 550nm at 3k rpm. The barra loves to expell all its exhaust gasses out through the Artec and efr9174. A few less newton meters down low rpm might stop my rods bending I figure.

Sweet tires bro! They will get you through some sand.

Great work there Puff! Is it laggy as? When is full boost? It must be a handfull when she comes on with that much power. Hope the terry diffs and axles dont shat themselves at roll racing. Awesome stuff.

Sounds like you need a barra transplant in that boat.

@Puffwagon do you know if fg mid muffler is straight through or a bit restrictive? Im thinking of getting my exhaust engineered a bit, so iv already said before, but I have 4inch dump and 4 inch all the way to the 3inch flange under the car, the wg pipe plumbs into the 4 inch under the car. What im thinking is, to extend the 4 inch all the way to the mid muffler and put a flange before the muffler to step it back down to 3 inch, but also make a mid muffler delete 4 inch pipe that bolts up to the 3 inch flange that's after the muffler so I can experiment with and without the mid muffler and still retain the stock last 3 inch bit that goes up over the diff. It would effectively be a 3 quarter length 4 inch exhaust. Would it be any less restrictive by doing that? Or would there be no difference because of the last 3 inch bit? Another thought I had was to not plumb wg pipe back in and run it separately as far as I can under car beside main exhaust and point it down at the end. I could only make it get to before the back wheel, it cant make it go over diff cos of room. Would it be just as noisy as a full on short screamer pipe? A separate wg pipe would effectively de-restrict the main exhaust and it wouldnt need to be upsized.

Fix it man and keep this story rolling, some of us are on the edge of our seat waiting for the next bit.