Slowxr6t

@Puffwagon do you know if fg mid muffler is straight through or a bit restrictive? Im thinking of getting my exhaust engineered a bit, so iv already said before, but I have 4inch dump and 4 inch all the way to the 3inch flange under the car, the wg pipe plumbs into the 4 inch under the car. What im thinking is, to extend the 4 inch all the way to the mid muffler and put a flange before the muffler to step it back down to 3 inch, but also make a mid muffler delete 4 inch pipe that bolts up to the 3 inch flange that's after the muffler so I can experiment with and without the mid muffler and still retain the stock last 3 inch bit that goes up over the diff. It would effectively be a 3 quarter length 4 inch exhaust. Would it be any less restrictive by doing that? Or would there be no difference because of the last 3 inch bit? Another thought I had was to not plumb wg pipe back in and run it separately as far as I can under car beside main exhaust and point it down at the end. I could only make it get to before the back wheel, it cant make it go over diff cos of room. Would it be just as noisy as a full on short screamer pipe? A separate wg pipe would effectively de-restrict the main exhaust and it wouldnt need to be upsized.

Fix it man and keep this story rolling, some of us are on the edge of our seat waiting for the next bit.

Surely if youve got the number plate the cops would look into it, cos that is not normal behaviour. Frigging dirtbag pedos!

You get over sea sickness quickly once youve emptied your guts into the ocean and stepped back onto land. that's me anyway.

I reckon a upgraded prop for his boat.

I got half an inch clearance from 4 inch dump pipe to block, half an inch dump to steering column and half an inch from wg pipe to steering column. My wg pipe is only 40mm steam pipe though.

@Puffwagon if you think about it, its always one step forwards.

@hjtrbo great idea thanks

@Puffwagon when you re-seal your barra sumps back on do you prefer to have engine upside down or right way up? Im just wondering if I can take sump off and reseal it on without removing motor. I know I have to remove front subframe to get sump off, iv done it before. I remember when I had motor on a stand upside down and I put sump back on I didnt have a helper and it was pretty difficult by myself cos the sump is so big, I remember I had a couple of goes at lowering sump down onto block cos I was worried I had smeared the three bond. Im not sure what went wrong but it leaks on the right side up the front by the angled tab on the sump. In your opinion can the sump be taken off and resealed without taking off front cover and crank pulley? Should new half moon seals be used even if mine arent leaking? Thanks

Itll be worth the wait hopefully, at least your car isnt in the bin.

Whats in the bin puff?

@Tom Tucker oh whoops that was supposed to be a light hearted joke in puffwagons territory adventures.

Still trying to fix annoying sump leak, I was torque wrenching the sump bolts to check their tightness and snapped one where there is no leak. Also one on right side up front where the leak is doesnt want to tighten, I havnt taken it out yet but im thinking it has stripped itself or has stripped block thread. I torqued them to 18-19nm. Is that too tight? I thought the snapped one I could just leave it alone and not disturb it unless it starts to leak. Then il have to try to drill a 2mm hole up into the snapped bolt and try ezi out it which may or may not end badly. Also I wondered about drilling right through the step in the block where the thread is and then using a 12.8 tensile allen head cap screw and nut to tighten the sump. Thoughts guys??

Also in a future episode coming up soon, Damn I asked too much of it! It was loving it, and it was sounding great, but now 3 rods are poking out side of block.

@sixman cheers man, your combo sounds awesome for the street, specially having a manual box.