Vigilance99

I’ll keep it updated, hopefully nothing too serious causing it as I have heaps of tread of the driver side but passenger is half worn assuming from full tank of e all time time in the Ute (no surge lol)

Checked all leafs and nuts all seem good, very randomly it started happening, 38/40psi is pretty good for low profile. I’m more after semi slick or radial tyre pressures from different brands and highway/track psi. I had the pro street radials at 28psi for highway but were bit bouncy went down to 20psi and were so good in FG manual Ute held 2nd 90% of the time with enough speed. Thinking these nitto nt05 s are more a street tyre now so I could try 32 and see if any grip is there if not I’ll drop to 24 and then 20 🤙

Looking for some knowledge on street semi slick/radials. Been running a street radial 100-120 treadwear for 4 months done 3600km, on 20psi cold, finally some grip for once. I do a lot of highway kms but only a weekend car, basically blowing the tyres off instantly now in 5th even 650hp manual Ute. All grip is gone heaps of tread is left though. Apprantly they have limited heat cycles and could have gone off or needs a proper burnout to get to some fresh rubber. Have ordered nitto nt05 as they were on sale and are more street friendly 200 tread wear so maybe get more out of them I’m hoping. Just unsure on pressures should I try a higher pressure for highway then drop when we are having a run? Let us know

Seems from front hub to rear hub is 3100mm on both sides, driver side is 658mm from ground up to top of arch and passenger is 670mm from ground up, is lowered on kings SL. Thought the fuel tank was on the passenger side and it would be the lower side as it’s full of fuel.. maybe the tub is out of alignment not the axle?

Looks like my passo wheel is close to the front wheel arch and the driver side is further back, assuming the axle is on an angle? Lowered with SL leafs not too low at all. U bolts look like they haven’t moved is this just a standard leaf spring design failure? 650hp manual

How long can I run 650 in a manual Ute with radials for before the tail shaft breaks (no launches or skids = instant breakage) 😂

No e85? Once you go flex fuel or e85 it’s amazing defs worth it, keen to see how it’s all going now

Hi Yall, I know the f6 turbo gt3582 will overboost with the 4” dump and cat but was wondering if the stock fg gt3576 will over boost aswell since I’ve got a full system sitting here. The f6 used to go into limp mode at about 4000rpm once the system was installed and required injectors and fuel pump for the tune to be sorted and I’m not at the stage to do that to the fgx yet.

Love to see how the GEN 3 3584 is going now, and a comparison between that and a g35-1050, even a g40-1150 too

What’s everyone’s thoughts on the rarity of falcons from BA-FGX? Will the 6 cylinder turbo be as sought after as the VL Turbo in years to come?

Morning, Just bought a FGX G6E Turbo, wondering on how to update sync to the latest version? Thanks 😄

On98? Just trying to see what the pro64 is more suited for auto or manual

So I’ve got a manual turbo Ute on e85 making 600hp+ with a gt3582 & suppourting mods, now I bought a 2nd hand series 1 PRO64 with 0.7 anti surge housing 64mm turbs for it but want to put it on my stock g6e turbo which is auto and 98 only. Will the pro64 be too laggy for the 98 daily with the bigger housing?

Has anyone used Bogan special? Sydney special vehicles? They do a lot of aftermarket bumpers and exterior parts, after searching for a new hardlid I got a quote and ordered one. After reading reviews they had a bad run and seem to have average customer service. I have been getting email replies haven’t called though. Hoping someone’s had a similar experience and received their parts?

So I went e85 recently with supporting mods on a new gt3582 CHRA external gate, 0.5 cover. manual on a hub dyno made 652hp/486kw keen to actually see what it runs and how happy the dyno is. What are rough mph 1/4 for similar power? Cheers