jako

Yay thread mine time lol one thing I’ve seen a diff builder comment on is the roll pin that locates the centre pin in the diff hemisphere can crack in two fall out letting the pin to drop and it can actually foul the pinion gear also on the m86 the clutch packs either side of the side gears have a clutch then a shim then clutch etc etc those steel shims also clack and can spit out and get chewed up in the gears also on the “side gears” on the lsd m86 most of the spigot on the side gear is takin up by the clutch packs leaving barely any spigot to register into the hemisphere really bad design this is bad on a Ute that relies on that side gear to support the splined end of the axel. IRS models have an extra caged bearing behind the side seal to help this

first you need to understand what gear rollover actually is And what causes it.. these new gearboxes have needle roller bearings inside of every gear (older boxes had bushings) so you will have a certain amount of clearance there. so when you are in neutral the gears aren’t locked onto the main shaft but they are connected to the engine via the clutch and flywheel and they will rattle............if you’re clutch isn’t tuned for that motor. (pushing clutch in disconnects the gearbox from engine and noise goes away) the springs inside the clutch disks amongst other parts are tuned And insulated to stop this gear roll over noise an LS or Cleveland are going to have different NVH to say a 5.4 or a barra every engine type will vary. some disks have a multi rate spring pack With two different springs some have a single different firing orders and stroke length’s will have different NVH a thicker oil can dampen the noise a bit but in summer it usually comes back as the oil thins out in higher temperatures Iv just been through this I had bad rollover with a 5.4 3v 220kw car 5speed tr3650 replaced oil with Penrite pro gear did nothing amongst other oils. built a new box Another NOS TR3650 with upgraded internals etc etc and adapted a mantic 9000 series twin plate clutch from a 5.0 coyote...... rattled its head off was very embarrassing in McDonald’s drive through.. Thought &$@ Iv buggered this box up when I built it so purchased a TREMEC T56 magnum xl 6 speed.......bugger me still did the same dam thing lol 😂 found out 5.4 engines need a multi rate spring pack on the clutch disks due to there NVH the mantic clutch had small springs to suit 5.0 coyote the ones needed were completely different a big spring with a smaller one inside it tuned to stop that particular NVH. ended up with a mal wood clutch for a 5.4 problem solved. reason these new boxes use DEX 111 is the synchros rely on friction to work. with a triple synchro the thicker oil “can” Get trapped between the multi layers of the triple synchro assembly And can’t push the oil out fast enough and can cause nibbling issues (better for bearings but not synchros) plus some of these oils are very slippery and stop that friction and some of the friction modifiers in the oil can harm the yellow metals in these Synchro assemblies. the noise usually get’s worse with the air con on as it puts more load on the motor. Also changes the RPM a few hundred if you have added some Performance bolt on parts without a tune this can upset the tune and make rollover worse

MFP I think are the only company making the correct brackets for the BA.. CNC machined and hard anodised very good piece I just use them to put my FG 6/4's on my BA........ $$ pricy $$ the hardest thing about this install is getting the hard line made up to join both sides of the calliper up I had some made by a hydrolics shop but they stuffed it up they had to remake them and use the nuts off the original hard line to make it work the nuts they used were supposably DIN but it still had a 45* bevel in the nut (like a SAE nut would) where it pushed against the bubble flair and not quit long enough all good now but