fox1972

Just finished my car...I repainted it....basically rebuilt it from ground up, engine, suspension drive line, interior....and got a plate that reflected it's performance. Cheers....

For anyone that wants the Dark Argents Paint Code...for their bumber inserts on BF Typhoons or BF aggressor....the code is below...I had mine colour matched...and it's exact....😁 E2 2911 1000ml Mix E74 - 530.7 E10 - 278.7 E48 - 69.8 E36 - 53.8 E59 - 43.6 E61 - 18.3 E25 - 10.2 Take this code to Inspirations Paint, they'll mix it for you. Cheers.

I'm stoked Keith...hasn't run this good in a long time. NOTE to self....every major 6 Month service....remove injectors...and clean them. Also...cam sensor on intake side barley had any magnetism....wouldn't pick up a small spanner...the new one did easily.

Quick update....the car still ran a little rough after the new battery...especially idle when cold, but has been like that for quite a while. It also had a very slight hesitation too. On the weekend, I changed both cam senors (Genuine), no burnt wiring on the exhaust side...but wrapped in shielding anyway. I also changed the MAP sensor(Genuine), and removed all injectors ( DEKA's) and gave them a good clean using the poor man method, battery and throttle body cleaner. I re-flashed the tune, started it up, and idled perfectly. Taken it for a few good drives, and I cannot believe how smooth it is. Hasn't been this smooth since I bought it. Feels like driving a new car, and all my power is back too. Spins the wheels at 80ks in third.....hasn't done that for a long long time. It's no longer running rich either. The injectors were pretty dirty with some slight carbon buildup. I noticed the drastic difference in the spray pattern as I cleaned them. Kinda reminded me of a dirty shower head with limescale. Anyway...car is running great.....finally.

Makes sense though....even though it had enough power to start the engine, the sensors would have all been out of their voltage range, triggering limp mode. No wonder it threw 20 codes for just about everything. These are the codes that it threw...the complete list. PO21 Intake cam PO22 Cam not in position to crank PO124 TPS or PPS error PO172 System to rich PO221 Throttle Position Sensor PO223 Voltage output PPS or TPS to high PO224 PPS Sensor switch B PO351 Cylinder 1 Coil fault PO356 Ignition Coil F Circuit Malfunction PO1270 RPM Or Speed out of calibrated range PO2100 Throttle Actuator A Control Motor Circuit Out Of Range PO2105 Throttle Actuator Control System PO2110 Major Failure In Throttle Actuator PO2138 Throttle Position Sensor Or PPS Voltage Correlation Problem PO2139 TPS Or PPS Switch D And F Voltage Correlation Problem. I did have lots of starting issues and big voltage drops starting the car before this all happened.

Confirmed.....Bad Battery. Had it tested and it was stuffed....wouldn't even hold load. They were surprised the car even ran at all. Took the car for a run with the new battery and the car runs much better. Also noticed that it's no longer running rich like it was before. It also had a slight stutter/hesitation before, that's now gone as well. Did a proper smoke test a few weeks ago thinking it was and intake gasket or similar. Anyway...all good.

Both B28 and B20 are strictly for the PPS. I've attached the image for you, but that's for the BA Falcon I6 PCM. No other sensors run off them according to the schematic. Well, got in my car this morning. Decided to start it, and bang....started first go and ran perfectly. I cannot believe it. I did have the battery on charge overnight though. Starting to think it may be the battery, considering it's nearly 4 years old. I do have constant voltage drops when starting it. I did test it a few months ago and it came up good battery on the tester. Maybe the battery didn't have enough juice to run the pcm and all the sensors, coil packs etc. I know the falcons get real cranky with a bad battery, and considering it's nearly 4 years old, I'll go get a new one.

To fix your problem...just run a new wire direct back to the pcm. On the PPS plug..pin 3010 (Pin6) connects to B connector on pcm....pin 28...or B28. Pin 3836 (pin7) runs back too pcm B connector on pcm or B20. These two supply 5v from the pcm to the to the pps.

Hi mate, Thanks for the post. I read somewhere it had to be indexed, and since you mentioned it, I do now remember it was for the adjustable pedals. Thanks for a heads up on the bolts. If mine have lock tight.....I'll heat up the bolts first. I've been doing some intensive research. I'm going to test the plug first. Make sure their is 5V on pin 6 & 7 with ignition on....all other pins should read zero volts. That's on a BA PPS. If that's fine, I'll do a resistance test on the PPS itself. I have the full chart here. As a matter of interest mate....were in the loom was your 5V break...to your PPS?

No....just the standard pedal.

Hi Guys, I've had a PPS failure on the turbo. Initially I thought it was a dodgy Tps. I ordered a new genuine Tps from ford a few months ago, as I was in the process of preventative maintenance and was replacing all the sensors anyway. Anyway, for the benefit of the doubt, I swapped the throttle body with one that does work...no difference. Start the car....revs straight to 2000rpm then drops to almost a stall, and sounds like it's running on 2 cylinders. no reaction from the pedal when you push it. It's been playing up since before xmas, but it's finally let go. I drove to the shops and back yesterday, car seemed fine, but on the way home seemed like it struggling to make power. Got in it this morning for work, got down the road about a 1k, then it crapped itself. Barley made it home in limp mode with a few stalls. I've replaced the following sensors...TPS, 02 Sensor, Boost sensor, Boost solenoid, has brand new coils and plugs...tuned in October last year by clint at profile. Has brand new exhaust turbo back, has no air leaks as tested by smoke machine a few weeks ago. I also have crank, cam and new map sensors...but yet to install those. When I checked the codes, it had thrown about a dozen, mostly related to the pps. Had one for tps, one for cam sensor and coil misfire...but most were pps related. I even re-flashed the tune, but no good. PO124 PO172 PO221 PO356 PO1270 PO2100 Po2105 PO2110 PO2138 PO2139 I've already ordered a new genuine PPS. Just need some advice for removal and re-installation. I read somewhere the pedal has to be indexed or something like that. Anyone that has changed one, some helpful advice would be welcome. Car is a Series II BA Turbo 6 speed manual sedan. Regards Alan

Yeah going bigger turbo. Going to a GTX3584rs with the standard housing for the standard look for now. That will likely change later.

It will go on in a few months as well as a Jonny Tig cooler and a few other bits. Then I'll get clint at profile to retune it. They will be used on the new engine.

November....

Nah your fine...That's why I bought it. Mainly for the head. It would have cost me....anywhere between 800-1200 dollars for incotel valves for the standard head. I figured it was cheaper as the nearest cheapest turbo head was around $1200 on average. I got the exhaust as well.....😁