D4N

Thanks for the reply - why not use the HPR10? That is the one Penrite recommends.

Hi All, I am undertaking an oil change and wanted to know what the best oil is for my car (within reason, I.e. available at Repco and the like). After reading the service guide and a bit research I thought I would share my findings (I am not saying it is right, just what I found). I thought this might be helpful for someone like me that has less experience/knowledge than most of you on this forum. This is the for the FG Mk2. The service manual states the following (p.27) ‘The Ford Motor Company recommends the use of SAE 15W40 API SJ/CF meeting the requirements of…’. I already had used the Penrite app and website to purchase the HPR 10 10W-50 (Full Synthetic) but thought I should check before I started the service. I was interested in ‘SAE 15W40 API SJ/CF’, so I thought I would break this down. 1. SAE stands for Society of Automotive Engineers. The SAE developed a classification system to define the viscosity or thickness of oil. This acronym at the start just puts the classification system into context. 2. The first number in signifies the viscosity of the oil at cold/start up temperature (tested at -10 to -35°C depending on the grade). The “W” stands for winter. The lower the first number, the faster the oil flows (pumpability) when the engine is cold. This translates to better protection at start. Higher numbered oils mean that the oil is thicker at start and can’t be as easily ‘pumped’ into the engine. 3. The second number represents the oil’s thickness at operating temperature (100°C). All oils thin out as they get hotter. So, the higher the second number, the less the oil will thin out as it heats up (or breakdown in extreme cases), compared to an oil with a lower second number. Apparently, you don’t want the oil to be too thick at start up and don’t want it too thin at operating temperature. That is, it seems preferred for the viscosity to remain more constant over all operating temperatures. Of course, this is all in relation to the manufacture's recommendations. The API SJ/CF part…API stands for the American Petroleum Institute. The API have established technical standards and testing procedures. The first letter in each block represents the type of oil. ‘S’ stands for spark ignition and ‘C’ stands for compression ignition. Different websites have slight variations (such as ‘C’ stands for commercial) but the ones above seem most plausible. For interest there is also a Diesel F category. Focusing on the SJ, the ‘J’ is the API Service category. This is alphabetical, so L is a higher category than J. The later or higher API Service Categories includes the performance properties of each earlier category and can be used to service older engines where earlier category oils were recommended. Ford recommends a SJ service category, the Penrite oil is SN which is a later and higher service category. So the Penrite covers the SJ service category and is OK to use. Synthetic Oil – some points I found and thought were interesting At start-up, mineral oils take longer to circulate in an engine meaning more friction. Synthetic motor oils are not ‘artificial’ or 'fake'. They are derived from crude oil, natural gas, or other chemical feed materials; however, as a general rule they use more extensively processed, higher quality base oils than conventional motor oils. Synthetic oil is engine oil that’s been further refined, distilled, purified and broken down through a process of chemical engineering. Synthetics offer protection across a broader operating temperature range. They are more robust, have low-temperature pump-ability and improved stability at high temperatures. It is a myth that you can’t/shouldn’t use synthetic oil early in the vehicle’s life. For interest, this is were I got most of the information www.mobil1.com.au/academy/myth.aspx penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/what-is-an-sae-viscosity/180 www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/synthetic-oil-myths/ www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/synthetic-oil-myths www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-categories-and-classifications/oil-categories www.sae.org/standards/ en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_International

Good purchase. How did they clean up?

Thanks adams355, yours and K31th’s advice is exactly the guidance I was looking for!

Thanks K31th, I appreciate the advice. Especially with regard to the coilovers. A quick look on the internet puts the Bilsteins at $1000 and the king springs at $300. In comparison, the xyz coilovers are $1,450. Given they are relatively similar in price, and the Bilsteins are at one end in terms of quality and the xyz are at the cheaper end of coilovers, which would you go with?

Hi All, I recently purchased a low kilometre 2014 FG MKII (octane). I would like to start my journey with the aesthetics of the vehicle whilst I get a better understanding of the sort of mechanical modifications would suit me best. The vehicle only has 13,000 on the clock. I don’t plan on tracking it or dragging. It is a car I wanted when I was younger and the need for a second family car created an opportunity. I would like to lower the vehicle by 30 odd mm to improve its stance. After reviewing the many threads here, it seems that King Springs SSL on front and rear, or SSL front and SSSL rear, is a popular choice. From my reading, it seems the following options are available. 1. Fit SSL/SSL or SSL/SSSL and run the stock shocks until they fail then replace them. I use the car to transport my 2.5 year old and 18 week old once a week or so. So I am not keen on this if handling performance (safety) is compromised. 2. Fit SSL/SSL or SSL/SSSL with suitable shocks such as Bilstein (or other recommendations)? 3. Coilovers such as XYZ or ShockWorks (recommend one or the other?). I currently like the softness of the ride although it is a little ‘boaty’. I plan on whiteline sway bars to fix this. Having said that, I don’t want a harsh ride but understand there will be a trade-off. Given I will only be driving around town with the occasional trip to Dubbo or Bathurst (I live in Orange), can you make a recommendation? I suspect there will be people suggesting going straight to ShockWorks. Is this overkill? But if it isn't, I am happy with that. Are the Bilstein the recommended shock for this application? Or are there other brands that have caught up in recent years? I know there is a wealth of knowledge in the past forum pages, but this particular or similar questions haven't been answered in the last 8-10 years. I have also been to a suspension shop and they just don't have the experience of driving these cars day-in day-out for years. The one I went to wasn't aware of ShockWorks. Thanks in advance, DAN

Hi Rab, Have finally had time to respond. Other than tinted windows, it is completely stock.....for now. Starting to plan the mods. I am thinking of doing the aesthetics first. Wheels, suspension (lowering), rear wing delete etc. I am tossing up between SSLs front and rear with stock shocks, or SSLs with Bilsteins or just bite the bullet and go straight to shockworks. I have no plan to track it though. With the wheels, trying to decide either powder coating the 19" luxury packs and go for 40 profiles to fill the guards more, or go for 20"s. Then move onto the engine.

Hi all, I have been watching and reading the forum with interest and it was enough for me to pull the trigger on a FG XR6T MkII. It was reading the posts that got me interested and ultimately over the line. As an older bloke, I remember when the Barra turbo hit the market. At the time, they were out of reach for a young man in his twenties. But thought I could recapture my youth in my mid forties So I am off to pickup the car tomorrow. I wanted a manual with low kms. I ended up finding a 2014 with the luxury pack in octane (orange) with about 12,000 kms on the clock. Very excited