justind

I have been told that this can happen. They put a levy of $x dollars to your premium for x years even though your rating stays the same. The other thing I have heard of is they increase your excess for x years and sometimes both. I have not experienced these first hand this is just what I have been told by friends and family who have had these experiences

The calipers should stay at the same position as before you remove them unless you touch the brake pedal while off the rotor. This should be an easy slide off then back on. No need to bleed the brakes after.

mine didn't do it till they reflashed with the so called overboost fix into the ecu. Bloody annoying taking it back next week it obviously is connected in my case anyway.

Freeway Ford Cranbourne. They have been very good to me in regards to any Warrenty claims never had any complaints, arguments or back chat from them just a genuine we will try to fix this issue and most of the time they have first time. I have even had "While we were servicing your car we have found this problem and fixed it under warrenty" Not many dealers go to that extent. I have found in the past most will not fix anything not reported by the customer.

I would say they invoiced you wrong as a 15k service should never cost that much in the first place. Did they invoice you for an Explorer? My Ford dealer has standard "A" service for $159 for the non Turbo models and Approx $220 for the Turbo models to allow extra time for the retensioning of the manifolds which is standard for the T models. 4WD Models range from $300+ depending on exact model. When they select the model in the invoice computer a standard list of items come up automatically and then they add warrenty issues at the end of the standard list. Therefore if the computer is told you have an XR6T the oil grade will automatically come up on the invoice correctly irrespective if they put that oil in or not. Personally I would question this and the price charged and demand a refund. I have paid from my dealer the following 15k service $189 30k service $176 45k service $160 60k service $211 75k service $220 (last week) All done at the same dealership and all have the correct grade of oil and standard service items listed automatically when invoiced followed by any warrenty issues.

15k service $189 30k Service $176 45k service $172 60k service $320 included a new fuel filter and new driving light and handbrake adjust which they charged me $40 for. Anyone who pays more than $220 for an "A" listed service is getting ripped off. All warantee work has been done at no cost (handbrake adjust at 60k is not considered warantee as this is only apparently only covered for 50k if you read the fine print) Location Melb area (Cranbourne) Take that back to your dealer and see what he has to say.

Had the same on my "Standard brakes" Took it to the dealer 3 times eventually they had to replace the pads. I had to pay for them. The cause according to them is the amount of build up in the grooves of your pads. They tried cleaning out the grooves the first two times with little success. Each pad consists of two or three smaller pads on a metal backing plate. The gap between these approx 5mm needs to be cleaned out. It does not take long to fill up again especially if your pads are more than 50% worn. Mine were approx 75% worn so I didn't mind paying for the replacemnets.

I am assuming you mean the main belt at the front of the car. Air Con compressor/power steering etc. If so I had mine changed for similar wear at no cost under warente due to noise and wear at 55,000kms. Earlier I had a bearing replaced in one of the tensioners so maybe that is why they did it at no cost to me?????

Had the same till about 7500kms then it stopped and hasen't used a drop since. Currently 60,000kms. Some motors seem to do this more than others. There are too many variables to pinpoint exactly why this is the case.

Someone once said to me "if there wern't so many d!ckhe@ds on the road ther would be no need for speed limits" He was quite correct. If we could trust everyone to drive according to conditions of road, car, upkeep of car, weather, zone, etc, etc there would indeed be no need for a limit. Unfortunatly this is not the case. I have seen many a young driver on a mountain road see the 100km signpost and try to do exactly that 100km/h up the mountain. Realistically this is not possible but they still try and this is where many come off second best. As to road condition I would have to agree that Great Britain has faboulous roads but this is not indicative of the whole of europe. As a general rule the lanes are slightly more narrow and certainly places like Spain and Italy do not have the same good conditions we experience here and yet they have higher speed limits. I can't argue with the likes of Switzerland who have even better roads than Britain but I can assure you Holland does not have any significant improvement on us and the vast majority of Europe has worse weather conditions than us. Go figure. I still maintain it is more to do with the driver education and upkeep of their cars. To repeat myself some of Europe has a minimum of 20 lessons required(4 on a skid pan) before even being able to try to get their license. Even then some fail the first try. Narrow lanes comparable road condition(with some exceptions) far worse weather conditions(and they still drive at 130+) Better compolsory driver education better maintained cars Hmmmm mayby this is the real key?????? Really if everyone stopped thinking they were such great drivers and looked at the bigger picture then maybe we could start to change towards a better set of rules and speed limits by implimenting some of the educational techniques they adhere to over there. Trouble is no one wants to admit they are crap drivers in comparison to the average driver there.