BeerTurbo
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Everything posted by BeerTurbo
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Yep sounds cactus. you blowing a diaphragm that seals in the drum, against a spring.... you should be met with 100 percent resistance when blowing into it. most turbo places should be able to get a stock ford sprigged actuator. as an idea : https://gcg.com.au/petrol-performance/performance-4/wastegates-accessories-internal/wastegate-actuator-ford-xr6-ba-bf-fg-standard-5psi-detail if you plan on modifying the car later a turbo smart wastegate may be a decent option, however if you install it with the 7 psi spring the car may freak out...altho the falcon runs closed and open loop boost control so it may actually be able to handle that small difference. it would most defiantly have a sad with the 14psi spring and no tune however.
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yeah, I think that's first on my list as im doing the rear bushes too. then surge tank, then intercooler exhaust and then maybe ill consider transfer case welding, at least so I can put it on a rwd dyno.
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If you weld the center you will have 50/50, a friend did this when he removed the front driveshaft for doing skids.. the center diff was just sending power to the front-aka going no where. welded center and lsd rear will make for great grip but also you wont have great fun doing tight circles int he car-park. ill have a go at welding one if a spare transfer case comes up cheap enough. the diesel newer versions has an electric actuated clutch to enable the front drive...I thought he might have adapted that somehow....I looked at pictures and its physcially larger when compared to our transfers, might be a dog of a job, but maybe it worth it if you get on demands push button rwd/awd
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yeah selectable rwd and locked power split im pretty sure he says in the latest one, also shows it on a rwd dyno & launching in 4wd mode at strip
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the ford m86 lsd is capable enough. I still desire on road manners over 4wd use. arent the true tracks more traction based lockup so u still need to feed it berries for lockup? otherwise it will still bias a wheel? I did ask them on fbook but they weren't keen on going into detail. perhaps if I was local, rocked up in arvo with beers theys would tell me. ps puff put a goanywhere lokka in your rear. only 300$ guaranteed traction haha... just get the nice click click click when turning
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I was just going to rebuild the spare LSD's clutch packs then swap that over to the terry rear. cheap enough, good enough for a flying brick. I think if anything the locking center diff would help the most for any non bitumen adventures. Id love to know what transfer case the interdependent Motorsports guys recently swapped to, they have RWD and 50/50 by demand now.
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As topic title, who has a surge tank in there territory? pics please I want to get some ideas. id like to know if the standard 2l type surge tank that's mount where the fuel fittings end work on a territory, I suspect not as the engine mounts sit about there.
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The standard Ba/Bf turbos are a garret GT3582 with 1.06 rear housing. The standard FG turbo is a Gt3576 with 1.06 housing. these standard turbos are able to flow quite a bit more psi/power than whats comes out standard. I placed a GT3582 with a .86 rear housing on a NA BA motor, it spooled super quick but it choked out the motor in the mid to top end. it was verry hard to maintain a solid boost curve as it would just blow the gate open with back-pressure. Changing to a 1.06 rear housing removed this problem and was able to maintain a solid boost curve. My na motor was fed e85 and 12psi and made just over 400 rwhp. If you are limited to sh*t fuel you wouldn't want to push one of these NA motors verry far, keep in mind even the turbo barra motors come out running SFA boost standard around 5-8psi depending on the varent. I think the morale of the story is pretty much use a different motor if you not going to run decent fuel or build the motor. The barras are great here in aus as there so abundant and you can get parts for them anywhere and cheap.
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is this part of the fuel tank setup? I was under the impression you needed to drill out the return hole in the fuel pressure regulator itself, or purchase the bolt in GFB one when installing high flow pumps.
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Howdy. Can someone tell me if we can use a standard turbo ZF gearbox on our Turbo T AWD's? The terry zf has an output spline that then slides into the transfer case. The normal rwd zfs seem to have a 3 pinion flange on the back, does this remove to expose the same spline the awd territory's use?
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What Is The Ttg Standard Factory Boost Pressure?
BeerTurbo replied to midafit's topic in Territory Turbo
these are the same as the bf turbo motors, so you will see anything around that 5-6 psi mark. The injectors and valve-springs should really be replaced when you want to look at going over 10 Psi. -
Auto cooler sits exactly where your oil pressure sensor is. The oil feed/filter that goes into the block is the same, however instead of having a adapter for the banjo/oil pressure sensor it has an end cap, just for securing the banjo. directly of the terry oil line there is a fitting where the oil pressure sensor sits. I have removed my stock auto cooler and placed a normal xr6 oil pressure sensor threaded fitting onto the block fitting and using a standard braided oil feed for turbo. heres a picture I took, its quite bad but you can just see the oil fitting and the territory sideways oil pressure sensor.
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Can confirm a Walbro 460 delivers to much fuel for the stock reg to handle, mine was sitting at around 75 psi fuel pressure at idle when it should have been a tad under 60. have heard some people drill out the return on the stock regulator, this requires precision as if you hit the wrong thing u will need a replacement reg. the return patch through the stock regulator is something like 2MM its a baby for high volume pumps. plenty of company's make fittings/bolt in regulators if you want to just take that path.
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You would need to modify the bonnet scoop to get the desired airflow for a bigger top mount. you may be better of installing a W2A intercooler in place of the stock cooler. would keep the stock short pipework and do an excellent job at cooling the air, only downside is the addition of the pump and heat exchange units.
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How did you go? Mine ended up with an over boosting problem also, Ba na motor with turbo gear and straight through exhaust. I ended up installing a J pipe to move the turbo to high-mount and an external wastegate to control boost, 45 mm turbo-smart gate.
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Howdy super random question, that I would usually answer myself but I wont have access to my barra for another week. I want to know the Outside Diameter of the wide circular part of the camshafts, as pictured. If anyone has a barra cam and verniers handy, id super appericate there time in giving me the answer cheers.
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This ended up being a stock flywheel for XR6T...the NA one I pulled out was different + I ended up with another xr6t one that was the same.
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I am not - as they are standard injectors in a standard ECU doing standard things. What I struggle with is a lack of correct information, or miss leading information. Ive had one "tuner" tell me all ford injectors are the same and to get aftermarket ones. And if you read around, forums and here you find that does not appear to be the case. Im just looking for hard data, because if a Typhoon injector is 440cc and they can be found cheap AF, then im not going to buy a new set of Bosch 440's / Dekka 60Lbs. Not especially for this beer-can budget build skid sh*tbox. If it was my daily, sure id buy some ID's or something with correct data.
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Hi Guys, im building a little bit of stock reference data...from information obtained online. Hoping I can get some input to fill int he blanks where known. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 0280156123 Ba/Bf falcon NA and turbo injector, used with different fuel pressure for Na Vs Turbo. Flow rate 3 bar/min, N-heptane 213 G (Bosh site data) have seen these referenced as 306CC Na ECU Data - Breakpoint 0.00000799999997980194 High Slope 0.00752800004556775 Low Slope 0.0103099998086691 Turbo ECU Data Breakpoint 0.00000939999972615624 High Slope 0.00929140020161867 Low Slope 0.0135736996307969 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ FG has three ford PN listed. Stock Ones part number is: BG 9F593A - no other data - NA injector? FG Turbo ones are : BG 9F593B 0280156383 Fg turbo - black? Flow rate 3 bar/min, N-heptane 237.3 G (Bosh site data) - Have seen these referenced as 350 CC High Performance ones are 8R2Z 9F593CA 0280156385 / 8R29-CA (Light Blue) 0280156385 F6 turbo - Blue Flow rate 3 bar/min, N-heptane 310 G (possibly untrustworthy source not direct from Bosch) - People have mentioned them being 440 CC Typhoon injectors Have only located one stock data source, assume from the standard turbo FG variant, would like Typhoon Vs Standard data to compare and update with. Breakpoint 0.000022000000171829 High Slope 0.013150000013411 Low Slope 0.013399999588728 ~ Cheers Guys.
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Did you have the turbo Map put on your ECU? or ruining stock turbo ECU?
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I did a bit more reading, seems anyone who modify s the exhaust on a x6t gets over-boosting issues. If you going to keep the aftermarket or high flow exhaust maybe look at a larger flapper valve or adding external wastegate. or go back to stock exhaust I dont know how I got so lucky. good luck.
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Mines got no cat, only straight thro and its fine. But ive read lots from people saying they do over-boost with free flowing exhausts. but yours seems a bit extreme to me. your issue will be around that actuator not opening the flapper enough - its the only mechanical thing to control boost. see they offer flapper valve enlargements for these cars, possibly to control your kind of issues...the more air it can divert from the turbine the more solid the boost curve can be. nah, that overkill.....get it flow tested, maybe having the flapper enlarged is a half decent idea. If you want to try extremes...disconnect the actuator from the flapper valve, the use some wire to hold the flapper valve all the way open. then test it.
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when you connected your tester to the actuator and it opened around 5 psi, was the actuator leaking at all? like a faulty diaphragm?
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just think of the solaniod as a really fast on/off air valve. When the car reaches the boost it want - it will open to let air thro, but you can modulate it so it runs more boost (on of on off)... so you turbo actuator might be a mechanical 4.5Psi spring, but with the controller it can modulate the air in supply to actuator so the car will run higher boost I believe the Peak boost a BA computer will aim for is somewhere in the 6Psi range. so just think of it like that, mechanically the car will try for 4.5 PSI, but with the use of the boost controller it will try for 6... with the use of the boost controller you can bring on boost quicker and run like a variable boost through the RPM, the electronics are pretty fancy. so if you boost controller is stuck closed, or not responding correctly due to bad wiring, there could be a limitation on the level of boost sent to the actuator.if nothings sent to the actuator it will over boost like crazy (same as if the actuator was broke (they can leak or if your rear valve was stuck). when you add in a less restrictive exhaust and sh*t like that, all this will happen faster and things will tend to run more boost because the turbo is able to spool up considerably easier than it could before....... but like I said, mines 3inch straight though and can still manage to sit under 5psi, I cant see why yours wouldn't be able to do the same or similar if you removed the computer control of the boost.
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Leave the wiring stuff connected, should not affect anything. yerp, direct connect, just like this
