BeerTurbo

where buys this, do want. today was rear main day for me, fun in the bun. tomorrow is reinstall fuel tank, wideband and testing.

rain this morning did not modivate me. pulled tank, drained the really old fuel. fiddled with the new pump hardware but now its time to see jw3.

guess that answers the question if you had a stock pump. I went shopping today and got a new pump, fitting kit, Wide-band and rear diff bushings. so tomorrow will be fun times. one thing im still undecided about is the mouning location of the gauges... pitty those ones arent being made anymore to have them sit ontop of ac vents. Ideas?

Depends how much you like the exhaust? see if there is a straight pipe section you can have remade to include an additional muffler. if old mate inspection requested a stock exhaust, then put the stock one on - get it passed out, come home and swap the exhausts again. you would only need the car re-tuned if your going to leave it setup like that, if your just swapping it and doing some normal driving there no need.

ahh 10-4. weight n awd helps create load n spool too.

what gear ratio do you have

Bruce Willis to go all die hard, and pull out a semi automatic and lay waste to everyone while Samuel j yells mother*&ker.

+ he had a dam window near his bed, escape plan 101.

watched yesterday. still undecided myself. the over used makeup lady warden, needed a different more appropriate actor and possibly more convincing preformance to tie it all together better.

is the aftermarket POD enclosure new too? ie why you still have stock airbox?

I compared my gtx v1 on the SR20 to an angry drill than a normal turbo noise. but they are great. also, more pics required thx.

its a verry open ended question, most people will ask what afr and boost and all sorts before answering that kind of question. You would be better of asking your tunner what he prefers to do. dont take this as exact numbers, this is not exact. B series turbo injectors are something like 310cc from memory and will run out of fuel with he stock turbo around 10 psi of boost. Fg normal injectors I think are around 350cc so can push a little further. fg f6 are 440 cc ish and once again will go a little further. the exhaust system will remove a restriction for the turbo, so it may want to by default run more boost. in certain situations these fords will love to over-boost - that's why people fit-up the modified rear housing with larger ports, or external gates. If you have been talking to a workshop allready, perhaps ask them about getting the injectors done, especally if you want to up the boost and go for more power....if you want the exhaust for the note and standard boost levels then you might be a-ok.

Most people with the two piece poly bushings as they are super simple to fit, but your going to have a basically solid mount and way more road noise. you best bet is to sus out what you have, then change it to something different. stock are usually black and old, superpro are blue or the solid polys are usually red.

Mates fg makes 450 hp on 98, but had to change turbine wheels. For you to get your aim easxily you might want to look at a newer gen turbo, as mentioned a gtx v2 3582 will easily fit the bill. if you have standard actuator on turbo, bin it for something around 12psi or more. you will need to port the exhaust flap to, or go external gate Yeah if your doing valve springs, the cams are already out so put in some head studs. Dont forget to run additional power to your pump if its going in-tank, those walbros will use up to around 22 amps. You may be better of using stock fuel pump as a list pump and using the high performance pump in a surge tank. go flex fuel if you in an area with an e85 pump, if you in WA id say forget it, just not worth the hastel with only 4 e85 pumps.

I bought a SH 4 poster on gum-tree for $600, replaced motor serviced it etc etc.. prob about 1k deep into it and its the best money ive ever spent. when I can afford to build another shed ill look at puting a 2 poster in there. +1 for hoists, rolling around on concrete is a young mans trap.

once your new turbos on, you may have beer.

dang, would pay $160 for that clean look...anyone want to make me one ahaha

So wahst the best ZF flexyboi option? I have to do my rear main, so might as well do something if the flexplate going to be an issue when I turn her up

frack rolling around ont he ground. I bought a cheap SH hoist a year or so back, it been the best thing I could ever own. I would have preferd a 2 post, but the price was right on the 4 poster and I dont have the concrete thickness for a 2 poster. that will be for when I win lotto and can extend the shed...ahahaha lotto dreams.

I had a reasonable successful weekend with new front suspention items and diff mounts done. oh along with fixing the exhaust leaks, de bung the muffler and what not. but discovered the rear mains leaking, so that will be fun addition to the list. next rnr is rear cradle out, lsd diff install, with new bushings and do the fuel pump upgrade. whats did you do puff, blow a turbo?

about 70 percent around cracked. who loves a good weekend crackjob?

not a fan on the x50 front, I prefer the more FG s1 front end. Feels verry Australian. also happy tuesday, flyoutdayyeow

Gearbox is not actually fully sealed they just do not have a level indicator for general users to check, they do have fill points on the side of the gearbox that are technically used to check the oil level. I recently serviced my ZF, Metal replacement pan and filter, from eBay $185. 20l of gulf western oil, was about $200... you can order it online from SCA but im in WA and they could not guarantee a reasonable shipping time (shipping was from over east, via road). I ended up going to repco and getting it same price same day. I also bought a transmission cooler to replace the factor w/o cooler, that was $310 service is made easier if you have the OBD2 adapter and can load up the transmission temp, as you need to fill it twice (once cold and once when it between 40-60deg-from memory) I think I ended up using about 18l of oil as I drained oil, added oil and drained oil a couple of times to try and clean out all the old oil. I believe the full dry refill is about 10l and part refil is about 4/5l (aka just sump) there is a thread on here somewhere with the ZF service guide, if you going to diy read it twice before starting, make sure you know what your up against. I cant tell you how much a mechanic would-charge to do the above. another point of mention here is that I bought the cheapest oil I could find with a ZF raiting, certain places may like to use the genuine stuff that is about $50 per L.