BeerTurbo

Nothing listed on their website, emailed them and they advised they wont sell the bungs separate.

Hi Guys, does anyone know where to purchase a weld in bung to suit the air temp sensor on the intercooler pipes of the ford turbo? cheers

I like where that is heading.

had a smart bar on it when I got it, but I think there ugly af. Im still tossing up my options, but its on the list to change. just toward the bottom of the list for now.

adjusted the preload on the turbosmart actuator, idk what crack I was on last week but it was way to tight. now with the 7psi spring the car sits on around 8.3psi. turbosmart say to use two mm of preload, that time I left it so the cleavus would just slip in, then did it up another half turn..I dident think that was to excessive, about the least amount of preload I could do. whatever, ranging over. did brakes and front main seal also.

I think we need a picture

to many birthday beers, memory is hazzy, but if the #barragod said its true then it is true.

on my BA at least the low speed fan is only one fan on and high speed both come on. in forscan is there a fan test, or pcm diagnostic that runs through the circuits? I think ive done something like this before, but brain memory is hazzy.

yes. single spring 7psi

you can use forscan to monitor engine coolant temp, whitch in turn will give you an idea on how the fans should be. if you can find a fan switch then maybe you can use it, I have never looked tbh. low speed fan will come on around 96degc and high speed fan will be 107degc. they also come on based on engine load, but your not going to be able to see if your high speed fan comes on at 0.8 load, as you will be accelerating and moving the stock gauge only tap halfway when the high speed fan comes on, that is why its hardly ever there, especially if your just putting around or idling in the driveway it will be hard to ever see the HSF.

this information is accurate ^ I installed a turbo-smart actuator on the weekend, set the preload as turbo-smart manual says, bypassing the boost controller and running just actuator control the car went to 15psi. My car only has a highflow cat with stock exhaust and that was enough to over-boost it. Im going to try setting the preload down to a minimal amount, but ive also got a modified rear housing on order for a larger wastegate flap. if you bypass the factory boost controller, have a stock exhaust/car and install the turbo-smart correctly so it only runs 7psi then the car/ecu/pcm wont freak out. if you have a stock ecu and connect it via the stock boost controller it will potentially cause issues, you need to have the duty cycle/boost map modified when changing the actuator..remember the stock actuators like 4 or 5 psi and the ford ecu try's to use the boost controller to target 6 or so psi, so if you change the base actuator it will all happen to quickly for the stock config.

rocker off, might as well do the valve-springs, might as well bolt in some head studs, do everything.

I use those "provent" style washable filter catch cans, easily serviceable and can drain back into your engine if you trust you vapors (prob not if your using a e85 mix) or into a secondary container or even just use a one way valve to empty it every service interval. the one way drains been my choice, works fine for the petty cars that dont breath as much, but the old diesel clanger I put a turbo kit on needs to be drained more frequently as shes a heavy breather. whats the e85 sh*tbox dumps every race event. yum yum

that sucks

If you buy the 460 you will need to switch the fuel regulator, GFB make a bolt in unit that's will solve the problem. the issue is the stock reg has quiet a small return hole, so when you get a big boy fuel pump the fuel cant actually return to the tank fast enough and you end up over pressurizing your fuel feed. You will also need to upgrade the power cables to the cradle, as that pump will eat around 22amps and the stock wiring is proberly only good for 14a. 320 Kw you will proberly only need around 200 LPH of fuel flow, have you considered just using a 255lph drop in fuel pump? this would mean you dont have to change the fuel pressure regulator, nor the wiring. if you plan to use the car in a way that the fuel will slosh around, like hard cornering accelerating for bulk periods of time, then you might actually be better with a surge tank and pump setup. for that power level you could use your stock in-tank pump as a lift pump and fit whatever pump you want tot he surge tank to guarantee its allways got fuel flow. usually the surge tank will be closer to the engine bay to, so running the upgraded fuel pump wiring is somewhat easier.

When I went through my na to turbo conversion, I orgionally ditched the stock ford rear housing and put a Mamba 1.05 v band ex gate rear housing on it. The car would come onto boost hard and fast, but not hold a constant boost curve even with a 45mm turbosmart ex gate. it would be 12psi midrange and 6psi toward redline, it just kept blowing the gate open. placing the mamba housing next to a genuine garret housing you could see it looked more similar in size to a .84 garret spec housing. we placed a genuine garret 1.06 rear housing on the car, an it spooled like a stock barra would and held a solid boost line, as you would expect it to. looking at your picture (and yes I know this is an old af thread) it looks like your mamba's smaller than the ford housing where the turbine flow is and put you int he same boat as I was in with the hard to control boost.

im a grown ass man and I love my Nintendo switch, kid will be super happy.

as above, did you use all the gear from the motor that matches your computer? if you still using the turbo computer it vital you changed the MAP sensor & Fuel Pressure regulator onto the replacement motor, otherwise it will just run like trash.

did you jack the bottom of the engine to see if the engine mount has separated? it will be hard to spot visually, unless you point a cammera at it and go reproduce the issue. hopefully your mechanic at least top'd up your fuel tank for joyriding in your car, id be more concern'd regarding him getting your car impounded though.

we need more e85 stations before id consider this

its a ford, just hit it and it will work for a bit

drill the plastic n fit terminals https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fp%2F18003877075

I like to think replacing the factory fuel fuel pump does not count as modification cost, it counts as a serviceable item..

with the fitting of the walbro 255 on the weekend my idle trims were still 0, so without a fuel pressure gauge I can assume its still fine. I only modified the in tank return pipe. when I fitted a 450 to the gold ute idle trims went to town. but then again I ran bigger wires straight away, so you may be on the money with the lower voltage helping maintain idle pressure. Im allways interested. hahahaha. I recently found out one of my local workshops has a 4wd dyno now, so now im keen to put it on the rollers after some road tune action.

did you upgrade the wiring also? whats modifications did you do > drill out the return hole in the fuel container and the fuel pressure regulator?