BeerTurbo

all good boss, if you get adventitious put your phone in the engine bay and hit record. also if its not loud enough to record its not loud enough to be a problem.

in the day and age where every phone is a high powered video recorded, im still amassed people try to describe a noise using text. Make a video / post to utube / link video here? also I had a cat do a separate and it would rattle around at idle... but it was pretty much all idle, not just cold idle. whent he car was off if you tapped the cat you could hear it rattle. it was somewhat easy to diagnose. if old mates had the car up on the hoist and reckons its not the cat, id half believe em cause its easy to test. also if it is stock there not much chance the exhaust is touching, unless you have super bad engine mounts - then it would only touch things on high throttle loads. usuallys its something like the xforce 4 inch dumps that rub

yerp! pretty keen, but way things are going ill be down there in 2-3 weeks.

she will stop good now, are you taking it down the quarter mile when they reopen next week?

I was going to put it in the BBQ but the gas bottle was already in the patio heater. it seemed to work alright, left it on low heat for a few hours afterwards and dident find any cracks.

playing around with things to fix boost control.

only way to know for sure. what fuel pump and pressure reg are you using?

howd you go with this, im in a similar boat currently.

Just look more so what car manufactures actually fitted to get an idea if its worthwhile. Subaru wrx had water sprayers in some models, they were all a top mount arrangement that is great for spool but terrible for heat soak (hence the water) I haven't seen a factory fitted front mounts with water sprayers, if you have a decent front mount in the path of air, away from heat there should not be a huge reason for you to need a water sprayer. Unless you doing stationary burnouts, high load and no airflow. if you have a top mount territory cooler, there most likely advantages to a water sprayer - but they heat soak pretty quickly anyway so your better off with a front mount. It all comes down to what your trying to achieve with the car. Jets verry highly regarded around here, your best of having a talk to him when you car tuned about it. you may find your new pwr cooler is good at maintaining temp even in heated conditions to do an adequate cooling job for low speed jabs on throttle.

I have an under drive pully on my na+turbo 400whp sh*tbox ute, mainly used for drift. I have not encountered any cooling related issues with the under-drive, car still has stock rad and a 82deg thermostat & functions perfectly fine with the varied rev range of drifting. I convinced myself it would be better for the higher rpm operation of the car, but honestly it was a waste of money. Na maybe you will get the claimed hp gains, but you wont notice jack on the turbo models.

Using the tool makes everything easier. if you plan on using the balancer again you have to pull it from the middle, either using the tool, or using backwards jaw puller in strange and difficult positions. if your balancer is going in the bin you can use a jaw puller and pull it from anywhere, but around the top where its easier will also mean it will destroy your rubber seal more and make the balancer worse - hence why if you do it this way it goes in the bin straight after.

Howdy Lads im changing the gearbox today and I was hoping to drain and refill the zf torque converter before it goes in, but she does not want to give me anything. is there a special trick? or is it on car running drain only cheers

get some sandpaper in there, get the carbon off the blades and it will work fine afterwards , this is commonly caused by egr.

Friend, you can change anything you want as long as your happy to live with the consequences. I do want to know though, how rich is your car running on a full throttle pull with your wide-band readouts? Your desired fuel table is....somewhat rich but as jet said there not allways representative of what the cars doing, perhaps the tuner did this in a way to not play around with other tables that will afect the engines fueling. many tables, many calculations.

Had mine up on a awd mainline dyno today, we had to pull the abs fuse as is it was kicking in the trc/abs. apart from that the dyno did not like the torque split and we could not successfully power run the car, the operator had not done a territory before and was going to look into how to do it correctly. from my perspective watching its not doing a direct drive torque split, and the rears were getting power and the front would receive a pulsing motion of power once the torque and load started.

I like em moist

yeah it actually fits in the tt scoop nicely. undecided if ill keep it like that, but for now im enjoying the huge amount of turbo noise it emits.

did the removal of the territory top mount intercooler, for the super china 600x400 intercooler and custom pipe.

I thought bov leak, but if its gone corectly then it wont be. if hes left the bov connected and blocked the vac going to the intake/bov that that would explain everything as the bov would be dumping at spring pressure override. upload a picture mate.

if you dont know how your bov lines should be routed, put up a couple of pics and im sure someone here will tell you if it looks right. if the bov is not connected right it will just be a huge leak in the pressure piping. normally when the wastegate actuators die, the diaphragm leaks and they build more boost than they should. this is not to say something else could have happend, if you dont have your heat shields on just make sure the actuator rods still connected to the flap and you cant move it open by hand.

When I did a turbo conversion I removed the t5 and put in a t5z and subsequently replaced the t5z 2 times due to failures. t5 and t5z are junk. The input shaft on the t5z has longer splines for the clutch than the t5. You cannot simply swap the input shaft as the gear-set on the shaft is different for each gearbox. It may still work, or you clutch disc may run out of travel on the splines, who knows. I dont know where my pictures of this ended up, but I can take some more later in the week. t5 has speed sensor in rear of the box housing, t5z does not. t5 has the much lower gear ratios. Given how weak the t5z boxes are, it would be somewhat a waste of time putting a t5 box behind a turbo car, the t5 would have to be free to consider it. also I never actually checked if turbo clutch fit in a na bell-housing, both bell-housing's kinda looked identical to me.

Sounds like you need a better mechanic. Tailshaft - If you keeping the car stock you might get away with standard NA tail-shaft and Diff. Personally I would look at getting yourself a turbo LSD diff and decent SH turbo tail-shaft or new replacement tail-shaft before you go chacing any power upgrades. they proberly did not connect the boost controller because they couldn't figure out all the electric issues and did not want the additional headache, would be along the same lines with the ABS stereo and all that, if they have changed the ECM to a turbo one, they have not paired it with the car correctly and basically everything up sh*t creek. you will be best to go see someone who knows whats they are doing.

Might be a wise idea to get a ford obd2 connector from ebay, there pretty cheap and load up forscan. perhaps start here and see if you have any luck. https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2499 otherwise ford should be able to do it for you, just be wary and go to one that knows whats there talking about. when I put the cruse control buttons on my ba, my local ford said they have no idea how to enable it and would charge $125 just to look at it, even if they couldn't work it out. took it to another place and for half that cost and about 5 mins of time it was done.

transmission has a computer, computer knows whats going on, ask the trans computer not the forum, the computer knows more.

Probably want people to buy their intercooler piping not make their own.