BeerTurbo

as it would be near impossible to find this information on barra coils as I think no one really wants to do the testing..I found some data on the Ign1 coils that come with decent test data. its just interesting to see the correlation.

wouldn't boosting the voltage to the coils be the same as forcing more dwell time?

was this in manual shift mode or auto? id say your tuner needs to look into your shift points and id be questioning why the limiters charged from 6k. in my own experience getting more power from the engine means smashing redline on the shifts, so the shift points need to be turned down or shift speed needs to be increased. to go over 6k they would have tuned it like that, with good/bad reasons. I met a lad recently who had a manual e series with barra and t56, he told me he set the redline higher so he wouldn't be sitting on limiter while skidding, he was worried about the pump gears.

Step one, stop driving your car until you find out what injectors you have. 10psi on a stock fuel system is out of fuel easily. my ba stock ute hit 8 psi before the afr's started heading for the moon. The injector near the thermostat housing should be easy to see, just take a photo of it and if there is no numbers maybe post it here for Identification. If you have aftermarket injectors then you have to have some sort of tune Your turbosmart wastegate actuator proberly has a 7.5psi spring in it if the pre-load is tighter than required, it will hold more boost as you have a free flowing exhaust its not uncommon to have your boost become uncontrollable. if you have your boost reference going directly into your actuator, this is your min boost - you cannot install a boost controller to make less boost than this. either fix you exhaust so it is more stock, or go get your wast-gate flap ported, or an external gate setup. These cars require SFA modifications to send them into over-boost territory. all my turbo barras run external wastegates, I have learnt my lesson dont worry about an external boost controller. the stock computer is more than capable boost controller - IF TUNED CORRECTLY. If you want to tune it yourself, get the required hardware and PCMTEC software, then you can change whatever you want. bbut id have to say, you may be better of finding a reptible tuner.

I bought this, thread taped the bottom mount and just screwed it into the sunglasses holder thing.....mine was already broken so I dident really care about it. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dual-Gauge-Billet-Aluminium-Holder-Cup-Pod-Black-suit-60mm-52mm-Twin-Double/231809117391?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

from memory the difference is about one cm.

Hi Guys my mate has a AU falcon ute for skids, its been parked up for about 6 months and the engine has been out. we tried to start it the other day and we are getting nothing. it has a j3 in ecu, so no smartshield/smartlock. all relays have been checked and with the fuses. when you put the car to ign, the fuel pump does not prime. when you put it to start there is no starter. if you manually trigger relays for fuel pump, it works. if you manually trigger the starter motor, it works. kinda obviously we are not getting spark or fuel. the pcm gets its power and ground, and the key on 12+. we can connect to obd2 and pull codes from pcm (no codes) have been trying to read the wiring diagrams and follow through with fault finding, but I thought id ask the Internets professionals for ideas...so im all ears.

Stock ECU is fine. In my territory I have pretty standard "mods" and along the line your going : Walbro Fpump, just make sure you put in direct power for the fuel pump the use alot of power. Front mount FG exhaust manifold, 45mm turbosmart wastegate, stock gt3582, 4inch dump, 3.5inch exhaust. using stock PCM's boost controller. Fg intake manifold Xspurt 1000cc injectors this is all controlled by stock PCM, using PCMTec to modify the PCM parameters. The stock PCM is quite powerful and verry configurable. I also have a pretty much identical setup in a ba ute, same thing - stock ecu is fine.

How did you go with this, im now in the same boat. found another thread that had no answer also. here. https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/87997-completed-turbo-conversion-issue-with-speed-sensor/ happy to fire up a signal converter, just want to know whats works

ba bf use full height injectors, fg uses 3/4 height afaik. you can get adaptors

falcon electrics can I <3 Bananas you right in the ass if you dont know what your doing.

Ill update this thread as ive been hunting for a tr6060 also and considered the Na fg box. I sent Mal an email about the FG na vs FG turbo gearbox's and this was his response. "The NA TR6060 is rated at a low 390 NM of Engine Torque and the Turbo TR6060 is rated at 520 NM of Engine Torque, these are very conservative ratings."

It might be reasonably hard to do on a budget build system, for little to no gain. If your car is LPG allready, you could proberly get a FG turbo manifold (for the direct upwards TB) Fit a carby to it, with a smallish jet size, with a similar opening to the stock TB, but remove the throttle blades. run that to a secondarily e85 tank Fir the stock LPG throttle body on-top of that. block off the std injector ports. start it and see what happens. otherwise to do it properly you might want a new instake manfold with two sets of injectors, do e85 set and egas set. you will then proberly need a haltech for 12 injector control and it will cost alot for verry little reward. IDK if you could just fit a meth injection system and fit it with e85 instead of meth?

allready had a braided oil feed - that works fine with highmount to. cut the oil return pipe in the solid part and conected oilproof hose to it to extend the length. overflow side water line works fine with a bit more hose, it has a small join std, just needs a bit more highmount. I did bend the engine side water line to work, but it was a right *beep*. ended up replacing it with a different fitting and hose.

same setup the turbo taxi has. more so whent he turbo is off you have all the room in the world to change them, and its a comon fault for them to fail with high kms

You want your gate in the main exhaust flow, witht he least restrictive path. The Ba/bf turbo manifold flange is a dick of a spot. The fg manifold has a nice merge and spot to weld in a external wastegate, but to correctly follow exhaust flow (90deg or less angle from flow) the gate ends up close to turbine housing and heat...if you weld it on a backwards angle, more than 90 degs it sits way nicer but you may run into flow issues. My ba has a J pipe for the turbo and the wast gate is right on the bend of the J pipe, right in the exhaust flow has perfect boost control. the modified exhaust housings have a bend and the gate sitting away from the turbo, this does work, but ones again you want that gate right in the exhaust flow, ideally you want that gate right on the exhaust housing....but its not practical with the falcon. My Ba my territory with fg manifold - in progress, havent fitted or tested.

Genuine garret housing, 1k. Is a bit of a waste when you can do the same thing to the stock housing and still use mostly of the shelf exhaust parts. Ive just put the gate on the exhaust manifold and merged it straight back into a 4inch dump.

BF turbo sedan dont cost a great deal these days, so it would be easier and possibly cost effective to buy one... back when he cost was still high for these things turbo an NA from parts was a cheap enough option that people would consider it. Are you even allowed a turbo coon on green P's? if your not, dont bother. you cant hide a turbo, you can make it look stock and nice and neat, but there no hiding it even from the most inept police officer. Its not overly hard to put the turbo setup on the Na motor, if it was me id do, ive done it a couple of times, but I dont know you so I cant say whats your capable of doing. before you start though, its important to make sure you have another mode of transport, another car, mums car etc etc...cause if you get stuck and need to leave the car for a few days, you still need to get around / go get parts. My first na+t, I did - turbo fuel pressure reg - turbo MAP / reverse the wiring as required. - fitted turbo and exhaust manifold from BA, drilled an taped sump, used a 90 deg fitting to go from std oil drain. - made my own intercooler piping and used generic intercooler. - exhaust was a stock ba down-pipe, stock ba cat pipe, gutted cat (dont do this) 3inch to rear. - company to get pcm changed to more of a turbo map for startup - after startup straight to dyno for tune - this is important. so as all xr6t I ran into over-boosting due to the free flowing exhaust, xr6 injectors are small so if you over-boost you will run out of fuel, then you say goodbye engine. so you need to keep this as close to stock as possible. if you need more than stock, with a na+t run a different fuel. get yourself big boi injectors, proper tune and daily it on e85, if your in a area with no e85 on tap, dont bother pushing it,stay stock. mine being manual needed HD clutch, if you have auto you need things like a cooler and proberly a turbo specs gbox if you push it. then I went with bigger injectors, e85, external gate, 400 hp. then I started smashing gearboxes, 3 t5z's now im in the process of fitting a t56 all these things add up in time and $$$. but the engines been fine and its a 250 though km + sh*tter with std falcon no service history, all comes down to tuning.

Jetty do you have a prefer'd porting option

I looked at fitting the fg manfold up to the territory yesterday, I only have the stock dump and cat pipe but the cat pipe seems to foul on lots of things. I assume because the fg has a front sway bar? so the aftermarket fg dump pipes fit?

is this like for the hylux's DPF faults? Toyota just take em out clean em, put them back and tell the customers there nothing wrong > repeat in 4,000 when happens again.

once you get to the back ones you should be pro, be able to do them blind, which is basically what you have to do anyway.

most of them are plastic with fixed angles, at least this has some for od adjustment and is metal. worse some to wose can just make an entirely new bracket for it. altho I haven't received it yet, could just be a pile of sh*t #ebaychina

I was going to smash this in there on the weekend, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dual-Gauge-Billet-Aluminium-Holder-Cup-Pod-Black-suit-60mm-52mm-Twin-Double/231809117391?epid=1155009612&hash=item35f8e66ccf:g:ktUAAOSwI2NdRKdi&frcectupt=true Im not that good with fiberglass, so was not keen to try make a nice factory looking one.

Give malwoods a call and get everything from the horses mouth. https://malwoodauto.com.au/product/tremec-tr-6060-6-speed/ I understand they use different input shafts so you cant just swap bell-housings.