BeerTurbo

couple of barra r31s floating around, I just killed the rb30 in my r31 a couple weeks ago. last week I picked up a bf mk2 setup, so the NA motor and ZF combo. Orderd the rbfactory mount kit, waiting for that to arrive. spoke to a bloke who has a turbo zf r31, he used the t56 mounts but just changed the mount pattern for the zf box, he reckons it was super close. this is not a go fast car, so a na barra and zf will be way more lively than the rb30 ever was. pretty keen to get started.

when you learn that secret, let me know im still struggling with it. there a f6 down the road from me, an the other day I heard him fanging it home, I live near the corner, so he stops and mildly takes off and as it changes into second a huge fireball out the exhaust.. got me wanting that fireball life.

interesting decisions on putting the cooler there. do you have any data vs std vs this with regards to temps? I only watched mine for a week or so after installing my trans cooler (in-between intercooler and IC condenser) just to see what it does and it seemed to sit around 80 deg c? I might pull out the stuff again next week as were taking a little trip down south and I'm borrowing a caravan.

before you can understand whats it means you really need to understand boost control. this information is documented everywhere online, start somewhere like here. so then you take that into consideration your actuator set for a desired boost level. anywhere from 4.5 to 9psi on the std ford actuators. then 40 percent is your electronic bleed-off. so if you have a 4.5psi actuator and 40 percent bleed - IN THEROY your getting (4.5psi+1.8psi) 6.3psi. there is about a million things that will affect this, so it wont be cut and dry like doing the math. pro tip, dont play with it.

If you put the PCM from the manual car you will need someone to marry the ecm to all your components. they can then tell the ECM to change speedo input back to ABS. now you might run into issues with talking to the ABS module, for this reason id suggest using your existing PCM. Get someone to change it to a manual setup, hookup the reverse switch to the T5 and bypass the P/starter circuit. t5 will be fine on a NA car, just avoid clutch kicks. if you plan on adding a turbo, plan on changing to a t56/tr6060

Std exhausts still 3inch? that's what still 700 hp capable of flow? The cat would be the restriction? If still std. Prob spool faster n have less egt with more exhaust

Yes. The rear hach area was full of tools, spare parts and things that generally have weight. Ths car basically weighs nothing. Trailer has no suspension, so its not forgiving with weight distribution issues. Ideal to have some front towball weight. This tie down setting was more than appropriate to tow this load distribution. But if you want to buy me a towball weight dial, ill make sure to send you the distribution details to the letter next time I move something.

ah yes, I too can play the Japanese card.

interesting. ive never had that. maybe im not trying hard enough. I put rear airbags in mine, cause its technically my all rounder baby transporter / car trailer hauler these days. might help with your squatting and towing condrum maybe?

surely fitting a stock turbo exhaust is a cheap and effective option? Just on that note the standard xr6t dump pipe to cat pipe is 3inch, then most flare into 2x 2.25inch pipes/mufflers to the rear of the car. Keeping that in mind, your single 2.5inch system is a restriction on the stock turbo system. will it still work, sure it will now, xr6turbo motors will love to over-boost with a fre-flowing exhaust, more so complicated with a na motor having more compression. My first iteration of na+t was a stock dump, with just a 3inch pipe to the rear of the car and the car would easily over-boost over 8psi and run out of fuel from the stock size injectors. The stock b series injectors are quite small and cannot handle much more boost than standard. personally id recommend you get decent fuel pump, decent injectors and tune the car to run on e85. the motor will love it and will last a lot longer. even if you want to stick with budget, fit a FG Na plastic intake, use the slightly larger na injectors, or even the fg f6 440cc injectors can be found cheap. these will give you more headroom. you could use fg injectors on your b series but you will need adapters from 3/4 length to full length injectors. I think there about $60 a set.

dont know how ive missed this thread, but subscribed for more updates #territorylife. I will add to the point about the LSD rear, when I got mine I could launch it lamely on dirt or in wet and have 1f 1f wheel spin. After putting a LSD in the rear it became way way more difficult to do that again and I gained a heap of confidence in the extra traction. but I only run mine around on about 12 psi daily and when I was chasing a 12 at the drags I had to get it to peak 15psi. Mine has the 45t/s wastegate welded in to the fg turbo mani, stock turbo housing has a 4inch FG dump pipe.. then from there its 5inch cat, out of the cat its just 3.5inch straight pipe with a 3.5inch hot dog to the standard 3inch rear section. I only did this because it was easy as pie and im not at a power level that would surpass the 3inch pipe at the rear.

if you believe the internet stock barra does 800 hp everyday of the week.

In my parts trade I did, I got crow valve springs, ARP headstuds, some headgasket and intune billet pump gear. Just came with a ba turbo motor, then a mate gave me the Bfmk2 motor basically free I was thinking id just use the rods in the ba motor. trying to be realistic with the build because I'm only going to need a Rear wheel horsepower number that begins with a 4. By ba na + t has 401rwhp and I drift that no problem. I think the cheapest forgie pistons and rods together comes in like 2k in parts and its just not going to be worth it considering the build requirements.

precision international list a Hypatec piston set for around $400, looks like with options for oversize. got me tempted to take that bf block to a machine shop to see if it will bore out ok. the orgionally plan was to put the rods in the ba motor, but I guess if the Bf block can be fixed its only $400 piston and $175 piston set away from being fine. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

Old thread, I assume you found your answers? Manly list this information for xr6. http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/tech/Ford-XR-6-Piston-Installation-Instructions.pdf Street, Strip, Top/second ring 3.632 inch X .0045” = 0.016344" Mild Boost up to 15lb Top/second ring 3.632 inch x .0055” = 0.019976" Medium Boost 15-30lb Top/second ring 3.632 inch x .007” = 0.025424" if you want to ever believe scotty from carnage , https://www.whichcar.com.au/tv/carnage/does-your-barra-need-ring-gaps-for-more-boost-carnage-plus-episode-64 They went 6tho for there higher boost application, 3.632 inch x .006” = 0.0021792

Barra Patrols are best patrols. Rb converted patrols used to be cool, but they just dont have the torque you need for a 4wd that the barrage delivers.

Did u fix this

The car was stock bf mk2 manual, well stock injectors so id just presume it was not tunned. My thoughts were inj 6 leaned out n it exploded after compression stroke as rod seems straight. Ill work out how to measure the rods accurately later, as I was hoping to use in my baT motor... Well I guess that will only fly if I can repurpose one of the baT pistons.

Picked up a bf mk2 turbo motor with a suspect droped valve. took her apart, the pictures tell a story, what story im not sure.. but as you have your beer tonight, lets speculate why number 6 wanted to die.

arent the re-manufactured new FG turbo intakes $650 on ebay? Ive bought them secondhand as cheap as $150 You need to knock up some fuel rail spacers to use the full length B series injector in the 3/4 height FG rail. or use the slightly larger FG turbo injectors - need a tune however. the f series to b series TB adapters are anywhere from $80 to $200 depending on who you buy from, you can get them to point other directions in a J pipe type deal too. I've purchased a b series to fg throttle body wiring loom adapter, I think that was around $100, but bear in mind you will need tune to use a fg throttle body. New gaskets and general parts another $150 or so. so conservatively your around a grand to DIY install FG intake, assuming you can make the connecting cold side intercooler piping also. my last falcon tune was around $800, but some places charged around 1200$ here ... so if you leave the fg injectors and fg Tb in, get a tune, your around 2k? I dont know whats a workshop would charge to change your intake, but surely its not 3k.

I would keep the stock fuel rail, just install a gfb fuel regulator and your good to put a fairly substantial pump behind it. standard regulators dont like large pumps. ive installed fg manifolds on both my barras simply because I hate the placement of the tb on the b series ones. fg ones are easier to make pipework for, neater looking and easier to maintenance.

dont forget it will melt those pissy valves on normal petrol eventually stock falcon ecm is going to detect knock events and do some retarding, if it sees lots of events it will also do a more permanent sh*t fuel timing map retard assuming you put 91 ron in your car. the problem is, on your ba+t engine, with a turbo, by the time the ecu has detected knock and pulled timing, your thin rods proberly already bent.

you mean like nearly every other turbo car ever made? truck knows why ford put one in + why they put it in such a stupid location is also beyond me. If you doing your regular serving you wont ever need a turbo oil filter. if your being a Muppet and leaving your servicing for once in a blue moon then your turbo filter will clog and you will lose your turbo, but your motor will still chug on till the oil gets to thick to move around the bearings. Sure a braided line with a filter in a serviceable location makes more sense then whats ford did, but also you dont really need a filter.

code P0420 do you have single 02 sensor like the BA spec or twin 02 sensors like the Bf spec? if your using a BF ecm I would make sure your secondary 02 sensor is turned of correctly https://forum.pcmtec.com/topic/547-removing-rear-o2-sensor/?tab=comments#comment-3085 AFR in the 10 is indeed verry rich, if you want to play along with 02 sensors issue then you can look further into the enrichment the ford ecm will do when it thinks the cat converter is to hot.. obviously works this out based on the 2 02 sensors (up and downstream of the cat). https://forum.pcmtec.com/topic/237-howto-engine-protection-settings/?tab=comments#comment-1544 Fuel enrichment on catalytic converter over temperature Fuel enrichment on exhaust over temperature Fuel enrichment on turbo over temperature Otherwise - are your injectors leaking? A boost level of 4.5psi is not enough to induce torque reduction on factory b series boost map. are you sure its cutting and not just misfiring from over-fueling, due to your potential bad 02 sensors programming or hardware?

You may wish to decide on how far you wish to go with the car, as you may be tumbling down the rabbit hole. You may wish to consider having the flapper mod done, or installing an external wastegate. Larger exhausts on these things do help them to over boost significantly. as said before once the exhaust is fitted, only drive it off boost and resist temptation to give it the berries. Pre tune you will also want a fuel pump installed. walbro 255 upgrades dont generally require much work or changes to your fuel regulator. higher flow pumps will need wiring updates, as they require more amps and your pressure regulator will require changing as they cant dump enough fuel that the bigger pumps send. GFB now make a drop in fuel pressure regulator that's suited to the task. ideally have it tuned not long after exhaust install, with injectors of your tuners choice, some tuners have injector preferences. your tuner will use whatever method they prefer to tune the car, but I do agree with MaStars regarding PCMtec, they are an Australian company so its great to support them as they are working hard to make the falcons do wonderful things on the stock ecm. with all these things you will be set for a fun time, I would also suggest an external cooler for the transmission but its not necessary before tune just recommended for longevity of the transmission.