BeerTurbo

so that would be an8/10mm line... so I guess you would twin entry an8's and an10 return? but it would depend on your FPR. do you have both pumps full time? cause that's alot of fuel...or did you work out the boost referenced seciond pump/checkvalve/way of setup?

twin an6 in and an8 out? whats are the pumps ae they 8 or 10mm outlets.

Arent they ss? The old twin-in both ends out the middle trick?

I think the middle top ones the one that triggers the 80km to empty.... then you see the one on the right? has a line through it....that's living dangerously....

while I was wiring up my ford dash into my Nissan conversion I found it has a light for absolute low fuel level, ive never seen one as the 0 distance to empty busser is annoying enough. has anyone been game to runt here low enough to see the actual fuel low light come on?

Something something oil pump gears hahahaha. This is also correct. In most cases na have sh*t rods n press gudgon pins in flat top pistons. Lpg good rods n press fit pin, flat top pistons. Turbo good rods n full floating gudgeon n pistons with relief. Then as they move from ba to fg things get better as you would expect. All of this has been posted about a million times. So its not hard to get more specific information on it.

Cheers. Trying to find the bolt size for the zf output 3 pronged donut thing. My taps only m1.75 and m12 1.5. the 1.5 feels darn close, but still resistive. Could be because verry dirty, or could be 1.25? Can anyone confirm? The tailshaft side has a nut n bolt, this is gearbox side.

Will have to much timming. Needs tune. Na motor valves are cheese and will melt with nice hot turbo injection. Valve springs arent much better. But sure it will run. Your just gambling

speedflow list this https://www.speedflowdirect.com.au/ford-power-steering-adapter but it looks wrong and I presume for other models fords. unfortunately this is for a Barra into r31 so the factory avalible lines wont suit. by the time you do lines for an electric ps pump and barra ps delete you have double the barra cost, its not really economical. I am however dodgy enough to cut the factory lines at the metal and weld them together if it comes to it.

you can turbo any of the Barra series, it all comes down to tuning. valve springs are a minimum on a na motor going turbo, as even in the turbo motor the valve springs are weak when pushing more than standard boost. If you going to pull the head to do the gasket and such, change out the valves. the gas motor may have the high temp valves, but you can allways upgrade these. Cams wont be required for that power level. ECU change wont be required, stock ecu can be tuned verry well. You might want a turbo ECU so you can use the std boost control features. STD fuel rail and std fuel lines are fine, std fuel lines 8mm so an6 or equlivant. STD fuel pressure reg wont Handel the fuel pump you will need to install to get that power. GFB make a drop in replacement - put it on the list. plan for external gate, or ported rear housing sooner in the build, barras dont like std IWG turbos when going higher boost. they need to move alot of air for accurate boost control. if car was factory turbo t5 you wont need to change the loom, as they get speed from abs if the car was NA with a t5, it gets speed from the t5 gearbox so you need to talk to someone about changing speed source (or do during tune). I had shiftkits aus knock me up a converter box to use a single ABS sensor to output speed reference tot he NA type ecu. if you car has ABS you can just switch over to speed over can/abs module. t5 loom wont have prevision for the t56 reverse lockout, I just made a push button on the dash for this. if you want factory option you will need the wiring loom to match gearbox and prob even the pcm. unsure, I didn't bother.

Hello does anyone know if there is an adaptor for the bB series PS pump high-pressure fitting, to an An fitting? cheers

this might be com pleatly irrelevant for puff situation, but when we were dynoing my ba na+t ute on e85 at a point every degree of timing was netting somewhere in the 20 rwhp difference (but also being a ba na motor its going to grenade if you lean on it, so the mid range was left verry soft)

making room for barras

Is it one of those china housing that say 1.02 but are as big as a .8? Guess you will find out in top end. How bigs the iwg hole?

from the little borg warner video I watched it just look like an electronic lock on the front transfer case to engage the awd. when you look at the disassembly of the nv125 it looks like the front chain driven parts directly from the gearbox shaft and the rear is via the torque mechanism, meaning it would allways favor FWD. I have a spare at home I have been meaning to weld, but given the car is a daily I think it would be unpleasant with a welded transfer. I fitted a LSD to the rear of mine, I needed to use the territory rear hat as the mount point was like 2cm of.. I cant remember if it was a ba/bf lsd ... but it fit fine. I dont get any additional road noise from it? I have airbags in the rear of mine for towing and they allways have about 5-8psi in them (25-30 towing), my terry does not squat....but its also no where near puffys level of crazy..mines only done 12.9's. if I leave my TC on through a launch it will pull power through 1st and shift into 2nd early. if I turn it off its launches fine.

Dident you have a newer diesel terry gbox at one stage? Did u ever see how hard the transfer case swap was? Arent they full rear with electric lock front? So they could do shopping centers, rwd launch then engadge awd grip mode?

Would anyone happen to know the ZF tourque converter bolts specs? I have misplaced them and the gearbox bolts, but the gearbox bolts should be easier to find out what they are.

the F6 turbo territory pulls in 13psi of boost in the verry mid range, drooping to 6psi from 4.5k to 6k. this tells you yes a std injector can take 14psi. But it also tells you it cant take it in the higher rev range. id say ford wanted the f6 territory to have a higher power output on paper without changing anything to expensive. I wouldn't be running to much more than 8 psi on a std injector. get rid of the 14 psi actuator assap. will be glowing red from runing lean and hot.

+ more importantly, winning.

then you can go race 4wds on the beach

Its not a fixed mechanical tourque split, still acts like a open diff and will unequal split touruqe if fed to much power

yeah rear cradle is where I gave up on mine. step back to stock system. should put my ass into gear and fix that.

Ive had the overboost cel a couple of times, my fault playing with settings incorrectly. I think if u overboost 3 times it comes up..then car runs wg pressure till you restart it.

Howd you go with getting over the cradle? that's where I gave up on mine.

get an electric bypass valve, take the output for the butterflys from the pcm to control the exhaust...or just leave it.. will open at like 4300 rpms and close again at like 4