BeerTurbo

my 31 with the 98/water meth shoots great big blue flames on meth. verry enjoyable.

I measured both my diffs and they are the same. 1500 Both LSD Different length axels. Yeah I called some local driveline places n they said ford genuine. The ebay shop said they have the one I need yes. I was hoping to buy sh axels cheap. But looks like ill be buying new. Just kinda annoying there different lengths. Be nice to have spares

I smashed an axel in my b series ute. So now im having fun finding a replacement. I have what I thought was just a 373 ba turbo manual diff. My spare diff from a xr8 ba lsd has different length axels. I just had a guy measure his on marketplace. Bf turbo auto, axels measured same as my spare. From the metal collar before bearing, they are 73 cm and 67cm. One im trying to find is 70cm for that same measurement.

I'm just going to bump this old thread here. My turbo territory with its stock top mount intercooler would heat soak easily, when accelerating from a standstill it would go from ambientish to around 85 deg c by the time you at 110kph / end of third. after installing a 400x600x76 core front mount the intake temps would basically match ambient temp . the same 0-110 test and it would barely raise 5 degrees c. turbo r31 barra with no intercooler, temp when no boost is anywhere from 40 to 55 deg c, as soon as the boost hits + 800 ish-rpm it will be over 85 deg c. this has water meth injection and the current setup sees consistent low 60deg c when turned on and car on boost. a falcon will usually start to pull timing after 100 deg F / 38 deg c, then ramp this up after 150deg f / 65degc. so ideally you want your charge temp to be below 38deg c to maintain power levels.

Hey, I did this, but lost speedo. Also after roughly 1 min the car went into a limp mode with a lower limiter. Abs is not overly helpfull on dirt tracks with rally tire's.

just another day

ok I need this for my drift ute.

I bined ac. But I found a rad that dident need cutting of front crashbar to fit. Got about 3cm to barra though. So fans need to be infront. You could in theory have the r31 ac condencer installed but I dont think rad would get enough air flow as fans would need to be infront of condencer. There is actually scope to move engine back if you notch crossmember and pot the temperature sensor in back of head (plug takes up to much room lol). I think my rads 50 mm thick if u got something custom u could get more clearance

Yeah I did the loom. Just takes time, pleanty of good resources online. Or get bill to knock u up race type loom

It fits. Some spots you can just squeeze ya finger in... I dident do any clearencing. I had to remove seciod o2 from zf loom n put in smaller sheth. Cause loom dident even fit over gearbox.

do they directly crossover?

not today, but the gone weekend. hunting the misfire from last event. ordered new coils for fun. new plugs went in too. checked the injectors as I had left e85 in the system while it sat for +5 months and I was curious. luckily was just the pre injector filters, replaced them and was fine. this was a an annoyance. lucky a local store had replacements. swap diff ratio, required moving the twin bracket over. this was an annoyance. brake pads were non existent. so full new sets for both. leave the rusty rotor, cause yolo? can ran loads better but would ocasionally still misfire. it pushed alot of coolant so I guess this weekend is compression check. when I removed the sparks two had verry white tips so it would have been a bit lean last event while running the clogged injectors. fun times ahead.

if the main tanks pumps not working, then you wont have any fuel. I use a std main tank pump to 5l surge tank and walbro 460 inside that. My car is only 400 hp on e85 but ive never had a problem with the std pump feeding the surge tank enough fuel. just remember the pumps flow is higher as its not under pressure. so although there like 165lph std pumps they would do considerably more at 0psi than 60psi pressure. unless your making bulk power you wont need anything overside in the main tank as you may just end up overheating the fuel.

full exhaust, cai and an under drive you might get an extra 15kw. more likely 10kw would expected. keep in mind this will also mean changing base fuel from 95 to 98ron...so there is extra ongoing expense. personally I would sell a 4 speed Falcon and buy a ZF 6 speed one.. change diff ratio from 2.7 to 3.45 and it would be verry peppy.

dont they have fixed bellhousing and are for diesels? I wanted to change to 6r80s from newer terry for the electric locking transfer case, or I guess from a ranger and get myself a rwd/4wd terrtiory.... but I allways got stuck on the bellhousing bit

Hows this going? I did a bf na barra n zf into r31 recently.

Easy do it , they are great... This pads 150 mm 32mpa 6*9m poured about 8m ago... with intention of having both hoists here (4p infront of shed) in the process of getting aproval for a 'carport' roof for the pad at 4.13m high. Backs of the pre-existing 6*9 shed (only 3.6m tall).. with another run of about 6* 12m infront of it. Ideally I want to follow the shed roofline along the front till the fence... But I ant made of cash.

managed to get turbo off, plugs out, cleaned up, new plugs in. Guess ill spend tonight on marketplace looking for a gtx/2. But srsly though tommorow ill try n put back together (I would have had it all done... But teething toddler demanded more of my time)

brings back PTST of me changing sr20 rocker arms at the track to continue drift events. head off she getting some port and polish too, going all out or just gaskets and a cleanup?

niceeee...have u run a quarter in this since its been above 550kw? bet it farken moves

you can weld ss nicely without filler and if you good with the amps there will be little to no sugaring on the inside. ive seens ome paste people use on the inside of a join, like a flux core to stop suggaring without purging.

I know for me as a basic home welder guy, I dont purge tubes so my ss tubes get a little suggaring inside. that would afect the airflow . if you purge and the pipes are smooth than the airflow between the pipes would be fine. you can buy the fg coil plugs, cut of the b series one and crimp on the fg ones. I bought some when I was going to do the conversion. so I have the plugs, but no coil cover or coils...hahaha

Ally will cool way quicker..so with Ss you may retain some heat in the pipes.. but ss wont rub holes into itself or anything like that.

My gold ute has a highmount (jpipe) and I put an ally overflow on after org one melted. Ally one got to hot to touch. Ended up coating it in heat reflecting tape and making a heat shield that also coated in tape. Heatsheild made biggest difference. Its only a finger gap from overflow, n around two to turbo, but was most effective. If it was a daily id put a turbo beanie on.

your almost ready for ign-1a coils surely. Big boy upgrades. Skip r35s go to moonsparks