BeerTurbo
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Everything posted by BeerTurbo
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well that's a good sign, bypass the factory boost control and see how you go bro.
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do that direct vac line thing mate, should not take much time to changeover....like I said back of around 10Psi. This test should get you the absolute minum boost your config will run. If you get up to 10 psi with it setup like this, you have an actuator problem, or potentially a stuck flapper valve (if shes stuck she will just boost to the moon and back) mines got a 3inch straight thro exhaust, no mufflers cat or anything (sh*tbox racer) and it sees max 4.8 Psi in this same config. If you hook a vac line from your air compressor, to the actuator and activate it with less than 10psi pressure (use the compressors regulator set right down, regulate it, if you smash like 80psi in there you will bust it up).......you should be able to see the actuator rod move and the flapper open, its ina *beep* of a spot so maybe record it on your phone.
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Jesus Christ, is this thing modified? ie ECU and injectors Stock computer and tune wont expect anything more than 7psi and stock injectors will run out of fuel around 11psi........... id says your in dangerous territory getting up that high, dont let it go over 10 if your stock tune. TBH I think its just a boost controller that its connected to, that vac line in question............so run it direct to the actuator and runt he car, if it get anywhere above 8-9psi just back it off, it should not be that high if you have a stock actuator.....if you have an aftermarket one that will be a different story.
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Do you have an actual boost Gauge installed and know how much boost its getting to? if its over boosting the ECU will cut. If its over boosting, you can try run the actuator directly from the nipple on the turbo and bypass the factory boost controller, this should give you a solid 4.5 or so PSI....... if your getting more you might have a faulty actuator/stuck actuator.
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not many truck flap's in here? Ba NA ute with standard XR6T turbo setup added. Stock dump / Stock cat pipe, with cat bashed out / removed twin section, continues 3 inch section from stock piping to single muffler exiting out of tray. Obviously a basher car, just for sh*t and giggles, not a street car.
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With my BA - I took the ECU to someone who swapped the maps for a Turbo map..then just added the different components from the turbo motor.... SO the 4 bar FPR and 2 bar MAP... I did some other things like the 3 inch free flowing exhaust and custom flipped intercooler setup. The stock BA map was around 6 Psi, but as im purely running stock wastegate control im getting around 4.8 Psi. We went out for a shake down the other day and the car seems to run quite well. I have an FG turbo intake to swap to & once I do valve-springs ill up the boost a bit - at that stage ill be getting a dyno tune though.. I know the BA BF NA motors only have a 1 bar map sensor, so the computer has no understanding of boost reference (1 bar being atmospheric). the BA/BF turbos have a 2 bar MAP sensor standard, so it can relate around 14.7psi of positive pressure to the ECU. Pretty sure, but I haven't checked this, the FG turbo is a 3 bar standard so roughly 30psi positive pressure is readable....I have no idea what the FG NA uses. With this in mind, I would not run a NA+t setup on an ECU a setup that has no idea if its on boost. It cost me SFA to have the ecu MAP changed and purchase the MAP and FPR - id say this would be a good route for you.
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Hi Guys, Im not having bugger all luck finding pictures of stock BA 5 speed flywheel's. I just picked up this BA turbo 5 speed (I hope it is I have nfi how to tell differences between t5 and t5z) anyway this is what the flywheel looks like. can anyone confirm? (is there a difference between NA and turbo) Just looks strange with the tabs. ~29cm bolt hole to bolt hole across the face.
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Hello Im going to dig up an older topic here, I have just spoken with Extreme clutch as im looking to change the clutch in my BA NA turbo converted ute. From my understanding of the conversation the turbos models only have a different clutch because they have more bell-housing clearance and can run a larger clutch cover - the clutch disc will fit the NA / turbo 5 and 6 speed (ba/bf models - fg was not asked about). The recommended option from Extreme was to run the twin plate clutch, because the twin plate is actually smaller in design - it will hold the power of an upgraded engine and will actually allow you to run any of the gearboxes.
