Cormo

Nice purchase Glenn. Purchased my BA MkII XR6T Magnet manual two years ago. Spent a bit on it, but expected given their age. Haven't looked back though, love it.

Located in the lower south east of SA. Stock 2005 MkII, Velocity, 6-speed man. XR6T Magnet ute (see profile picture) 3rd owner, 212k kms Great car with no real plans to modify, just maintain & preserve.

Well had a go at this over the Christmas / New year break. Managed to change out the faulty wastegate actuator thanks to all the advice, much appreciated. A bit involved, not difficult but doable if you take your time. I found a good set of wobbly socket extensions was invaluable. Should only take half the time next time, BUT hopefully I won't need to do it again for quite a while. Once again, thanks for all the advice - great forum. Cheers

Some good pointers there thanks Puffwagon. I tend to use a torque wrench when tightening exhaust manifold bolts. I've installed an earl's inline oil filter but will check this also. Thanks for the tip on the circlip - lol. So at the end of the day it is possible to remove the turbo & manifold while leaving the bracket in place, by removing the bottom two studs (turbo to manifold flange). I assume it is better to disconnect the water return line at the turbo to get better access to the studs. You mentioned disconnecting the oil return pipe at the block. Leaving it connected to the turbo doesn't hinder access to the studs?

OK, sorry for the late response but have had home PC issues. Obviously the heat shield on the engine mount needs to be removed to gain access to the bracket bolt/nut. Oil & water cooling lines to be removed at turbo. Have a new gasket set for the dump pipe, turbo to manifold flange, oil & water cooling lines. I've got a new set of studs & nuts for the dump pipe to turbo. Just got to get the other two rounded off nuts out. I see some HT manifold to turbo flange studs & nuts (12 sided?) for sale on eBay. Would it be worth getting a set you think? Also got a new exhaust manifold gasket. Apologies for all the questions. I'm a turbo virgin & I like to picture what I am up against & what issues I may encounter before giving it a crack. I really appreciate any feedback. Cheers

Puffwagon, I took a look on the weekend. The dump pipe had been removed previously & the old nuts reused. Needless to say they were pretty ordinary & as such I proceeded to round off two of the five (not happy) - job for another day. I took the opportunity to check out what needed doing to remove the manifold & turbo as a unit like you suggested. There appears to be a bracket or brace but I could only see two nuts on the front side. Couldn't see the firewall side nuts. I suspect they are under the engine mount heat shield. You mentioned removing the "lower 2 turbo fasteners" to take it off. Are these ones that attach to this bracket? Can you please elaborate further or point me to a link on how to remove the manifold & turbo as a unit. The manifold is pretty straight forward but I'm trying to find out what needs to be done to release the turbo. Also, I have read in places where people don't reinstate the K (H) bracket as they believe it isn't necessary. Not sure if it is difficult to put back on or it just makes it easier next time to remove the turbo. Either way, is this a recommended practice? Cheers . . .

Sounds great! . . . always up for a challenge. Might think about whether to do it myself or not now. But sounds like if I try I will be looking for that swear jar. Not sure about the preload. There doesn't appear to be any adjustment on the standard replacement wastegate actuator arm (same part no. as that on vehicle). Just a solid arm with an eye at the end, unlike that on say a Turbosmart actuator which has a threaded sleeve on the arm for adjustment.

Yeah I presume it's just a matter of disconnecting the cat & dropping the dump pipe. Hopefully the nuts & studs are easy enough to remove. This will give better access to attach the end of the wastegate actuator shaft & clip. Replace with new dump pipe studs, nuts & gasket etc. etc. I tried blowing into a good wastegate actuator & was impossible. So it appears mine is stuffed after all, as there is no resistance when blowing into mine. Thanks for all the feedback & suggestions, . . . much appreciated.

Just checked my records, the code that came up was P1227 "wastegate actuator failed closed". Had a quick look today. Tried blowing into the tube going to the wastegate actuator & no resistance at all. I assume there should be if it is working properly?

Good info, will give it a go. Thanks . . .

Probably a good time to check it out when removing the dump pipe to change the wastegate actuator. Vacuum leaks can be a pain to chase but will keep in mind. Thanks . . .

Yeah I replaced with genuine ford coils K31th. Any easy way to determine whether the cat is faulty? it doesn't rattle or the like if you knock it.

2005 BA MkII XR6T 6-speed manual Magnet ute (stock standard, 210k kms) I’ve been chasing these intermittent problems for a little while now.  What could they be?  Could they be related? The first issue encountered; when accelerating to 3,500 to 4,000 RPM, it feels like it hits a rev limiter.  It misses & loses power.  Once you back off it seems to reset & is back to normal.  I don’t recall the engine light coming on when it happens. Just recently, the other intermittent issue, which can be rather exciting at times, is when overtaking (mildly).  You generally just get ahead & it feels like it goes into limp mode.  It loses power & won’t rev past 2,000 RPM.  If I pull over, shutdown & restart everything is back to normal again.  Once again I don’t recall seeing the engine light come on but it may be because I am too preoccupied with the car I have just overtaken.  Can be a tad embarrassing after overtaking just to pull over to shut it down & restart!  Last time I had this happen a mate checked the codes & it came up with an overboost issue. The two scenarios are slightly different.  The coils, plugs, fuel filter & boost control solenoid have been replaced recently.  I have a new stock standard Garrett wastegate actuator to fit.  I’m thinking (hoping) this may be the issue as the one on it is still the original at 12 years old.  I understand they are a PITA to change with the turbo still on.  disconnecting the catalytic converter & dump pipe makes the job easier though I believe. I don’t believe it would be necessary to get a tune when replacing like for like actuators.  Would this be a correct assumption? Cheers . . .

Ford Forums

Spot on, thanks for all your effort & measurements. Exactly what I was after. Appears as though the hose has to be coolant hose not fuel hose.