joffa1

Will do but I’m almost positive it’s exact same problem as last time. Thing is I had Casey Automotive make the repair last time so hoping to have a go at it myself this time and try and make sure it won’t happen again.

Yeah we went through all this last time it happened. If you read back it’s apparently related to cracked turbine housing so just trying to narrow down again where I’m looking exactly and what does and doesn’t have to be removed.

So big thread dig but surprise surprise my car sounds like a tractor again just like you guys said it would. So I’m thinking this time as it’s most likely the same problem I will have a go at doing it myself. Is this the problem part that cracks and these the problem bolts?

No one?

Sorry should say it’s fg 2012 fg Xr6t so the TR6060 gearbox.

Anyone happen to know off the top of their heads what size the bolt is after removing the reverse switch wiring? Want to pump the last of my gearbox oil in there. I only had a 19mm and 22mm ring spanner and didn’t fit so I’m assuming 20mm? let me know if you can the size and best tool for the job - box, open end, offset, ring etc? cheers!

Hi, have my eye on a set of Ox 18” rims second hand. Wondering if anyone has any experience with this make of wheels good or bad and thoughts on them in general. Cheers.

I believe he meant the ball joints themselves are not replaceable items, I.e. you need to replace the control arm with ball joints pre installed. so you are agreeing!

Yeah think it’s the shocks for sure now. When I put my weight down on the bonnet over the wheels and rock on it the front end bounces multiple times. No good. Recommendation for replacements? Don’t necessarily want to go top shelf but mid range options? Thanks again.

Will check that too... there’s no clunking or weird noises which I believe usually accompanies ball joint failure... but need to inspect to rule out. 125,000kms seems like a short life for front shocks to me... but sure its a possibility. Was my first thought.

Rough idea on cost? Thinking might just diy and replace control arms so no mucking around with ball joint presses etc. I would imagine roughly same price as paying mechanic labour to replace just ball joints...

Can ball joints just be replaced or have to replace whole control arm? Recommended parts, easy enough to do for a hack home mechanic? Looking at these maybe? https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/superpro-lower-control-arm-kit-trc1009?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIge_awo7h7AIVgTgrCh0NTwH7EAQYAyABEgJ9J_D_BwE

Ok thanks I will investigate

Got a 2012 fg xr6 turbo ute just clocked up 125,000kms. In the last few weeks the front end of the car seems to be handling really badly. Best way to describe whats happening is when I go over a speed bump, even very slowly, the front end of the car bounces up and down multiple times instead of just the usual single rebound... Even at high speed on the freeway can hit a bit of a bump and it gets really bouncy and floaty. Doesnt feel very safe to be honest. First thought was front shocks but I thought worn out shocks would have a different feel as in the bumps being really harsh? Just guessing here... Any advice appreciated. Cheers.

Ok cheers. No point making insurance claim as can get a replacement wheel cheaper than excess amount. I’ll have a google search but mostly comes up with joints that do gutter rash repair and re painting etc. if they can’t do it guess they’ll know someone who can though. If anyone can recommend a place in inner or outer east of Melbourne that would be great too? Thanks for your help.

Hi guys, due to some idiot not securing his load I hit what I think was a block of red gum possibly a brick on the highway the other day, regardless it’s done some damage to my rim. My question is, is it possible to “re-round” the rim? As you’ll see in the pic it is way out as it is now. I’m hoping there is a repair option as looking on gumtree these rims go for over $300 for a second hand one in only ok condition. Thanks for any help.

Ok thanks for input. Where can you get them for $100 a tyre?!?!

Ok. Tyres are Hankook Ventus V2 which I think are half decent?

A good set of Ford 17 inch rims with 235/45/17 tyres has come up at a good price. Would this setup provide enough grip for an unmodified fg turbo? Or is 245 the minimum width required...

Yeah I took a look at that and saw that the mm difference for the 245/40 profile is more than I thought. All good sticking with same profiles for now. Will look to change all 4 tyres and possibly rims at same time down the track. Thanks for your help.

The 17s are too junk so keeping the 19s for now. Given that does anyone have a definitive answer on whether it’s ok to run a 245/40/19 or even a 245/45/19 on the rears and a 245/35/19 on the fronts? Once the fronts wear out I will replace them with exact same tyres as the rears. dont want to drive around on the spare much longer so would love a definitive answer. Thanks.

Ok I think I’ll bite the bullet and buy the 17s with the 45 profile tile on them. At least I’ll have a spare set of rims even if I’m not happy with the ride on them. Cheers.

Have someone selling a set of clean 17s now but with good tyres on and I’m assuming a 45 profile on a 17 inch rim would give a smoother ride? I.e. road noise and bumps not quite as harsh?

I actually looked at going down to 17 or 18 rims and running a higher profile tyre. Had a nice set with good tyres lined up but bloke sold them before I got there. Still keeping an eye out. Ok so 255 width on rear should be ok. What about a slightly higher profile. I.e. 40 on rear and keep the 35 up front? I would imagine this would be ok?

Great help. Thanks mate.