joffa1

Guess it just depends how much they’d charge. What you reckon in labour?

Ok happy to do the whole line. Can see the connections at the top easy enough. Easy enough job getting them off at the bottom near the rack?

Ok yeah I was reading about that in a previous thread. It’s a 2012 FG II. Could I just replace the switch or that won’t solve it?

Posted a while back that I put in a new power steering pump after old one died and it’s always had a whine despite bleeding as per manual. I’ve now been losing fluid and just topping it up to keep it going. Finally had a look and it’s a mess fluid everywhere. I noticed that there is fluid coming out the bottom of the switch connection here. Is this a common leak point? Is it likely to just be an o ring or something I can replace or am I looking at a new switch and or line? Thanks for any help.

FG MKII Turbo ute a while back my power steering pump developed a loud whine, appeared to be leaking and no good so I replaced with one from The Parts Factory. I bled it as per workshop manual but it has always whined and still does. Recently had the car at Casey Automotive for an exhaust leak and they looked it over and said it didn’t have any air in it but is just noisy. Could it be this is just a crap pump and I need to replace with another? What are others doing for replacements? Fraud?

So I’ve got it booked in at Casey Automotive again as doubtful I’ll have time to investigate myself. if indeed it is a cracked turbine housing as people have pointed to where do I source a replacement. Is there a better aftermarket option that hopefully won’t crack again? appreciate the help.

😂 you certainly helped out a lot last time it happened. I still had to get someone else to do it though!

Will do but I’m almost positive it’s exact same problem as last time. Thing is I had Casey Automotive make the repair last time so hoping to have a go at it myself this time and try and make sure it won’t happen again.

Yeah we went through all this last time it happened. If you read back it’s apparently related to cracked turbine housing so just trying to narrow down again where I’m looking exactly and what does and doesn’t have to be removed.

So big thread dig but surprise surprise my car sounds like a tractor again just like you guys said it would. So I’m thinking this time as it’s most likely the same problem I will have a go at doing it myself. Is this the problem part that cracks and these the problem bolts?

No one?

Sorry should say it’s fg 2012 fg Xr6t so the TR6060 gearbox.

Anyone happen to know off the top of their heads what size the bolt is after removing the reverse switch wiring? Want to pump the last of my gearbox oil in there. I only had a 19mm and 22mm ring spanner and didn’t fit so I’m assuming 20mm? let me know if you can the size and best tool for the job - box, open end, offset, ring etc? cheers!

Hi, have my eye on a set of Ox 18” rims second hand. Wondering if anyone has any experience with this make of wheels good or bad and thoughts on them in general. Cheers.

I believe he meant the ball joints themselves are not replaceable items, I.e. you need to replace the control arm with ball joints pre installed. so you are agreeing!